Hello to all the good helpers out there,
More or less this is a continuation of this thread:
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?47402-Carburetor-Questions&p=255531#post255531
...but with new problems which I have spent days on the net looking for a solution, and even similar threads always seems to end before the person who needed the help stop all communication and responding, obviously they get the solution but forget to report back on the forum of what it was.
The model is Seadoo XP 2000
Changed the grey line, to new black lines, rebuilt the carb with new filters and parts from corresponding rebuild kit etc...
Problem 1 Dess post, and no two beeps when key was placed over, resolved by fitting new Dess post, I guess over time the magnet in it just got stuck or something...anyways resolved.
Problem 2 zip tie stuck between carb and engine, causing engine to rev high out of control, resolved, silly employee of mine error when mounting back the carb, managed to get a zip tie stuck in there.
Problem 3 exhaust leak between the main exhaust and the second part of the exhaust, apparently steel ring between the two exhausts was slight bent, although we put exhaust high temp red gasket putty and kind of fixed the bet, does not seem to leak anymore or least not apparently.
The major problem left now, is it will not go over 4000rpm in water, will rev to 7000rpm on hose today.
The problem and the trials:
- On first trial in water will not go over 3500rpm, pulling the chock about 5 millimetres would make it go slightly better, but would bog down to a dead stop if accelerating too much past a certain point, would die before WOT.
On second trial in water, cleaned the spark plugs and would go a bit better up to 4000rpm, couldn’t remember if it bogged down on WOT, but was not revving over 6000rpm on the hose
- On third trial, changed to new spark plugs, but not the BR8ES as Ii could not find them where I live, on water would not go over 4000rpm, but this 4000rpm would be at WOT and no more bogging, slightly better with chock pulled 5 millimetres, may be 100rpm better, on the hose would rev to 7000rpm which might be hitting the limiter. So all in all was running better in a sense than first trial.
So far not sure what is going on...on low rev ski seems to go normal, no problem in starting it either, is just not getting over 4000rpm and not over 20mph on water. It does not feel abnormal at low rpm, is just acting as it should, as soon as I WOT hit 4000rpm and that is it.
What you have to know, and what I tried:
- There might be chances that employee left clothing tissue in the secondary exhaust when using it as a plug for the putty he was removing not to fall in the exhaust. (He is not sure), water still coming out of exhaust though...would think if there was something stuck in exhaust would have end up in cylindrical box at the back of the ski.
- Fuel baffle not sending signal to the fuel gauge, even though I replaced the little floater thing inside with a new one, wouldn’t see why this be connected to my problem, but then again...if it is a fuel delivery problem. The fuel gauge is working when I run a loop on its plug. If XPs have a limp mode, which i do not think they have, I would then probably say may be it is that due to the fuel baffle being electrically dead...???Not sure of that one, may be you have an opinion on it?
- Inspected the water intake and no obstruction of any kind, it is clear as pure water.
- At idle on hose battery gives 12.6ish to 12.7ish volts, so rectifier not toasted i assume, if they have a rectifier.
- Could it be broken reed petals for some reason?
- Could it be problem with RAVE valve which is probably an easier check that pulling the exhaust.
- Could it be due to some errors in connecting the new fuel line at carb or baffle level, also changed 2 check valves which i am sure where in correct direction.
- Could it be the carb, even though pretty sure all screws where reset to original settings, could it be throttle cable not pulling enough? Run the same wether on reserve or normal, so not a switch problem.
- Should I try the ¼ trim of spark plug wire technique as read on a few forum? Coils etc all look brand new in the box!!! This ski looks brand new, i am sure as less than 20 hours, never really been used
- Could it be a leak in the drive shaft and I how do I check this.
- Could it be an unplug electrical wire?
I have not done cylinders compression checks, nor carb pop off test, as I do not have these devices to check, could someone recommend some model I can find on ebay and the correct one for the Xp cylinders and car.
Employee is on the verge of being fired (But not because of this), so I have to put the mechanical clothes again, I really need to check the easy thing first and then if it does not work start to pull apart the exhaust, which I am trying not to.
There is another thing I wanted to check, I have replaced all the oil in the oil tank, but because I found some kind of oil goo, I wanted to check the drain plug of the pump (I managed to replace the oil and not have air in the main line), but checking the drain plug drain flow, it seems to be very very slow to flow, there is some air spaces in the 2 small lines, and the flow in this resemble a clock needle as the way their advance and from time to time seems to have air space, I try opening the throttle of the pump manually at WOT when the engine idle, I see the oil advance but with this bit by bit movement, no matter how long I do this, it does not seem to get rid of small air space in the line...is this normal?
Thank you guys, feel free to quote what you can help with, will respond to questions and will post back if solution is found...so to help others, this ski has been stored for a long period, and I am struggling to get it to back, hopefully will eventually...
Caloute
More or less this is a continuation of this thread:
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?47402-Carburetor-Questions&p=255531#post255531
...but with new problems which I have spent days on the net looking for a solution, and even similar threads always seems to end before the person who needed the help stop all communication and responding, obviously they get the solution but forget to report back on the forum of what it was.
The model is Seadoo XP 2000
Changed the grey line, to new black lines, rebuilt the carb with new filters and parts from corresponding rebuild kit etc...
Problem 1 Dess post, and no two beeps when key was placed over, resolved by fitting new Dess post, I guess over time the magnet in it just got stuck or something...anyways resolved.
Problem 2 zip tie stuck between carb and engine, causing engine to rev high out of control, resolved, silly employee of mine error when mounting back the carb, managed to get a zip tie stuck in there.
Problem 3 exhaust leak between the main exhaust and the second part of the exhaust, apparently steel ring between the two exhausts was slight bent, although we put exhaust high temp red gasket putty and kind of fixed the bet, does not seem to leak anymore or least not apparently.
The major problem left now, is it will not go over 4000rpm in water, will rev to 7000rpm on hose today.
The problem and the trials:
- On first trial in water will not go over 3500rpm, pulling the chock about 5 millimetres would make it go slightly better, but would bog down to a dead stop if accelerating too much past a certain point, would die before WOT.
On second trial in water, cleaned the spark plugs and would go a bit better up to 4000rpm, couldn’t remember if it bogged down on WOT, but was not revving over 6000rpm on the hose
- On third trial, changed to new spark plugs, but not the BR8ES as Ii could not find them where I live, on water would not go over 4000rpm, but this 4000rpm would be at WOT and no more bogging, slightly better with chock pulled 5 millimetres, may be 100rpm better, on the hose would rev to 7000rpm which might be hitting the limiter. So all in all was running better in a sense than first trial.
So far not sure what is going on...on low rev ski seems to go normal, no problem in starting it either, is just not getting over 4000rpm and not over 20mph on water. It does not feel abnormal at low rpm, is just acting as it should, as soon as I WOT hit 4000rpm and that is it.
What you have to know, and what I tried:
- There might be chances that employee left clothing tissue in the secondary exhaust when using it as a plug for the putty he was removing not to fall in the exhaust. (He is not sure), water still coming out of exhaust though...would think if there was something stuck in exhaust would have end up in cylindrical box at the back of the ski.
- Fuel baffle not sending signal to the fuel gauge, even though I replaced the little floater thing inside with a new one, wouldn’t see why this be connected to my problem, but then again...if it is a fuel delivery problem. The fuel gauge is working when I run a loop on its plug. If XPs have a limp mode, which i do not think they have, I would then probably say may be it is that due to the fuel baffle being electrically dead...???Not sure of that one, may be you have an opinion on it?
- Inspected the water intake and no obstruction of any kind, it is clear as pure water.
- At idle on hose battery gives 12.6ish to 12.7ish volts, so rectifier not toasted i assume, if they have a rectifier.
- Could it be broken reed petals for some reason?
- Could it be problem with RAVE valve which is probably an easier check that pulling the exhaust.
- Could it be due to some errors in connecting the new fuel line at carb or baffle level, also changed 2 check valves which i am sure where in correct direction.
- Could it be the carb, even though pretty sure all screws where reset to original settings, could it be throttle cable not pulling enough? Run the same wether on reserve or normal, so not a switch problem.
- Should I try the ¼ trim of spark plug wire technique as read on a few forum? Coils etc all look brand new in the box!!! This ski looks brand new, i am sure as less than 20 hours, never really been used
- Could it be a leak in the drive shaft and I how do I check this.
- Could it be an unplug electrical wire?
I have not done cylinders compression checks, nor carb pop off test, as I do not have these devices to check, could someone recommend some model I can find on ebay and the correct one for the Xp cylinders and car.
Employee is on the verge of being fired (But not because of this), so I have to put the mechanical clothes again, I really need to check the easy thing first and then if it does not work start to pull apart the exhaust, which I am trying not to.
There is another thing I wanted to check, I have replaced all the oil in the oil tank, but because I found some kind of oil goo, I wanted to check the drain plug of the pump (I managed to replace the oil and not have air in the main line), but checking the drain plug drain flow, it seems to be very very slow to flow, there is some air spaces in the 2 small lines, and the flow in this resemble a clock needle as the way their advance and from time to time seems to have air space, I try opening the throttle of the pump manually at WOT when the engine idle, I see the oil advance but with this bit by bit movement, no matter how long I do this, it does not seem to get rid of small air space in the line...is this normal?
Thank you guys, feel free to quote what you can help with, will respond to questions and will post back if solution is found...so to help others, this ski has been stored for a long period, and I am struggling to get it to back, hopefully will eventually...
Caloute
