Seadoo XP 2000 will not go over 4000rpm in water reving fine out of water to 7000rpm

[gsxkid]

Yes will do that, have to check what the numbers are for the car though!

whats the make and model of your car. i'll look em up for you on all-data.

 

[Krispy]

whats the make and model and engine of your car. i'll look em up for you on all-data.

Fixed it.

 

[LouDoo]

You can also check the compression gauge with the gauge on your air compressor, remove the hose from the gauge and install a standard air fitting, it should thread right on. Then insert it into the chuck on the end of the air hose, check the gauge against the gauge on the compressor.

Lou

 

[Caloute]

You can also check the compression gauge with the gauge on your air compressor, remove the hose from the gauge and install a standard air fitting, it should thread right on. Then insert it into the chuck on the end of the air hose, check the gauge against the gauge on the compressor.

Lou

First test with first compressor, and the compression gauge is off by 1/2 bar, if the compressor is also off by 1/2 bar this could put the ski a 120psi...will test with second compressor, pictures also coming next.

Caloute

 

[LouDoo]

Please understand any in house testing is only an approximation, at 105psi you're probably not going to find enough error to make any difference. You just need to bite the bullet and rebuild the engine. Even if you get 120psi you've still got low compression.

Lou

 

[gsxkid]

Please understand any in house testing is only an approximation, at 105psi you're probably not going to find enough error to make any difference. You just need to bite the bullet and rebuild the engine. Even if you get 120psi you've still got low compression.

Lou

What he said :agree:

 

[Dr Honda]

Here's the deal...


If that engine only has 20 hrs run time on it.... you would CLEARLY see the cross hatch on the cyl walls still. (and probably feel it with your finger nail) That's barely broken-in.

If the cyl walls are shiny... it has some run time on it.

Pull the cyls, and measure them. Then... measure the pistons. If they are in spec, do a quick hone, replace the rings... and put it back together with new gaskets. That's a band-aid that could buy you a few more seasons... but chances are... the lower half is tired... and will scatter with the new found power. The 951 engine isn't known for "Long Life"... and since that one is pushing 13 years old... it's time for a full rebuild.

 

[Caloute]

Here's the deal...


If that engine only has 20 hrs run time on it.... you would CLEARLY see the cross hatch on the cyl walls still. (and probably feel it with your finger nail) That's barely broken-in.

If the cyl walls are shiny... it has some run time on it.

Pull the cyls, and measure them. Then... measure the pistons. If they are in spec, do a quick hone, replace the rings... and put it back together with new gaskets. That's a band-aid that could buy you a few more seasons... but chances are... the lower half is tired... and will scatter with the new found power. The 951 engine isn't known for "Long Life"... and since that one is pushing 13 years old... it's time for a full rebuild.

Hi DR. Honda,

Sorry for my ignorance but could you explain what is that "cross hatch" thing you are mentioning, not sure I understand.

But for the update of the day: I brought the comp tool back to the shop and asked to my friend Daniel to check it, it showed lower than his one he use in the workshop by a good enough margin, he then tested the last one on the shelf and this one did not work at all, I ended up walking out with his...

The piston seems round if this is better than oval, I will do another comp test when I put back the cylinder, if there is no change then will re-built, luckily enough wife is in New York (Bay Side) at the moment, so might get to bring back some parts, I think if anything, this has probably damaged rings at best...

Is there a way to take of the cylinder without taking out the exhaust, or should I get everything out again?

Thanks for your help guys, much appreciated.

Here are some pics as well
Caloute

 

[Caloute]

Some other pics

 

[Caloute]

Ok I have understood the cross hatch pattern, will check
Caloute

 

[smc0922]

Take better pictures of each cylinder wall with the piston all the way down, one from the right side of the boat and one from the left, for both cylinders. 4 pictures total.

 

[northshorerider]

Your carbs are off.

 

[Caloute]

I checked that cross hatch pattern and it is pretty much there, definitely not flat

 

[jhjesse]

I'm just looking at the pictures with my old tired eyes. I'm thinking, maybe the head gasket was leaking causing the low compression.

It could also be the way I'm looking at the pics...you also only have 1 bolt with any corrosion.
Could be worth getting a straight edge and checking for warpage on the head, as well as the cylinders.

 

[Dr Honda]

I'm not seeing any signs of a "Burn Though" on the head gasket. To get a low compression reading on the engine, from a head gasket... it would have to basically have a section missing. Otherwise, the only way to check the gasket is with a leak down test.

But... I can say this... from the picture of the piston crown... it's been running lean.


Personally... I wouldn't put that engine back together just to check the compression, since you need a new head gasket. I would pull the cyl's and measure the pistons, and cyl's.


I'm not sure what you mean by the comment... "The piston seems round if this is better than oval". When someone says the pistons are out of round... we are talking a few thousandths of an inch. It's not anything you can see. So... once again... you have to measure.

 

[SabrToothSqrl]

that front piston (crown) looks spent. I'd have it rebuilt and just know it's ready to rock. Shame it's just the start of the season though.

your water front looks amazing. Wish I got to ride there. I love the black of the XP too. Now I have to find a 2000 XP to play with!