new boater advice please

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SONY720

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Hey guys I'm a new boater just bought my first boat hear it's a blast.. I gotta 96 sea Doo challenger.. Just wondering if there nething I should know ... Also looking to hear some good important tips to maintaing my boat well:. Ic it's very important... Keep in mind I'm new so explain in dummy terms lol
 
considering you said, "its a blast", then i take it, you've taken ur out to the water already, and seemed to you, it performed like it should. So..only "maintenance" i'd perform on her, is, locate the black caps ontop of the motor, remove the clamp ring, and expose the bellows underneath the caps. Then remove the 2-allen bolts, securing the housing to the motor, and remove the unit. There are a valve under each, threaded to the inside of the bellows. You want to clean those about every 50hrs or so.....Only other thing i suggest you do, is remove the dropgate/reverse bucket and nozzle assy on the back of the boat to expose the "cone", and rmove the 3-8mm bolts securing it to the venturi. Nasty smelling oil will pour out, which then, once drained, re-install the cone ,with the setscrew facing up top, and remove that screw to refill the cone assy with 75/90 syn oil....:cheers:
 
considering you said, "its a blast", then i take it, you've taken ur out to the water already, and seemed to you, it performed like it should. So..only "maintenance" i'd perform on her, is, locate the black caps ontop of the motor, remove the clamp ring, and expose the bellows underneath the caps. Then remove the 2-allen bolts, securing the housing to the motor, and remove the unit. There are a valve under each, threaded to the inside of the bellows. You want to clean those about every 50hrs or so.....Only other thing i suggest you do, is remove the dropgate/reverse bucket and nozzle assy on the back of the boat to expose the "cone", and rmove the 3-8mm bolts securing it to the venturi. Nasty smelling oil will pour out, which then, once drained, re-install the cone ,with the setscrew facing up top, and remove that screw to refill the cone assy with 75/90 syn oil....:cheers:

NOO i havnt been out yet never even been on a boat..i said i hear its a blast..(i think i sed that)...its paid for at a dealership just waiting for the lake to taw so i can take for a test drive...anything i should look out for?? if i dont like i get my money back im not stuck so yaa....as fr the things u suggest i do to maintain...the first cleaning thing sounds alright but the 2nd thing seem pretty hard maybe ill leave that to the proffesionals...if i gt an oil change every 50 hours at a shop will the things u mentioned be included inthat? also the grade of oil u sed to put in....75/90 synthetic whats a good boat brand?? also i heard synthetic oil is bad for sea doo boats??????? i actually read that on here... thanks so much
 
hear its a blast....my mistake, i read it wrong...:ack:

Do compression test, perfect is 160psi in each, but exceptable is mid/high 120's, but nothing more than a 10% difference in each cylinder, per motor.

The synthetic, not sure where you read it, but the pump assy NEEDS thee synthetic oil, which can be bought at wal-mart..any brand 75w/90 synthetic will work.

They are 2-strokes, so no "oil-change" is needed, for the motor itself, but the upmp assy, yes.

RAVES, they're easy to remove/install, and clean wiith wirebrush/wheel, to remove the carbon, so they "float" easy in there own housing. Other than that, yup, they're a fun boat.
 
hear its a blast....my mistake, i read it wrong...:ack:

Do compression test, perfect is 160psi in each, but exceptable is mid/high 120's, but nothing more than a 10% difference in each cylinder, per motor.

The synthetic, not sure where you read it, but the pump assy NEEDS thee synthetic oil, which can be bought at wal-mart..any brand 75w/90 synthetic will work.

They are 2-strokes, so no "oil-change" is needed, for the motor itself, but the upmp assy, yes.

RAVES, they're easy to remove/install, and clean wiith wirebrush/wheel, to remove the carbon, so they "float" easy in there own housing. Other than that, yup, they're a fun boat.

SORRY just one more question wellll i have lots but lol yaaaa lol.....how do i do this compression test?? and so they should run 160 psi...but 120's is fine but if there all 160 psi n one is 120 or vice versa thats bad?
 
hear its a blast....my mistake, i read it wrong...:ack:

Do compression test, perfect is 160psi in each, but exceptable is mid/high 120's, but nothing more than a 10% difference in each cylinder, per motor.

The synthetic, not sure where you read it, but the pump assy NEEDS thee synthetic oil, which can be bought at wal-mart..any brand 75w/90 synthetic will work.

They are 2-strokes, so no "oil-change" is needed, for the motor itself, but the upmp assy, yes.

RAVES, they're easy to remove/install, and clean wiith wirebrush/wheel, to remove the carbon, so they "float" easy in there own housing. Other than that, yup, they're a fun boat.

SORRY just one more question wellll i have lots but lol yaaaa lol.....how do i do this compression test?? and so they should run 160 psi...but 120's is fine but if there all 160 psi n one is 120 or vice versa thats bad? als at the boat store i saw a little pump that sucks the oil out of ur motor to do a oil change is that for 4 strokes..or is that a good thing to do but just extra?
 
if on one motor, it reads 160/120, then yes, that motor needs a hone/new rings, at the least...

To do compression test, remove sparkplug wire boots, install them on the black ebox, you'll see 2-metal post sticking up and/or the metal post are on the front engine cover and it'll have an orange sleeve over them. With spark plugs then, removed, hold throttle open and hit start button, hold until the needle "tops" out.
 
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