Impeller Assembly seems locked on to fiberglass transom, any ideas?

[tlyons]

Hey all,

Last weekend I started getting my 1994 GTS ready for the summer and upon visual inspection, noted that I needed to replace the wear ring. Following the manual's instructions, I removed all the bolts and ball joints, and the assembly seems locked to the back of the transom. There looks to be a bead of glue coming from the way back of the assembly but I am not sure. From what it seems, I should be able to slide the assembly out, giving me easy access to the wear ring so I can replace it and add in a new neoprene seal. Also to note, I removed the nose cone from the jet drive, drained the oil (which was black and very fragrant), and did not loosen the square connecting bolt to the drive shaft. I don't know if I am missing a step here, because it seemed from other posts that the shaft did not have to be disconnected from the fly-wheel. Also, I would think that the only course to take would to take an angled pry-bar and gently tap my way through the glue, but I really don't want to ruin the fiberglass back there.Any help would be great here as this seemingly painless repair had become a long chore.

Thanks!

 

[Seadoobuddy]

Hi and welcome to the forum.

The last mechanic to service the pump used silicone to help seal it. It might take a lot of work to get it unstuck. Keep working on it with a putty knife to break it loose.
It's best to use the neoprene seal as you wanted to do.

You need an impeller removal tool.


Where in Michigan are you located?

 

[tlyons]

Thanks!

I'm in the small town of Decatur on Lake of The Woods. I was thinking I might have to do this. When I pick at the silicone, is there any way to do this without removing the Ride Shoe? I've been trying to avoid this as it is pretty much locked on to the bottom of the fiberglass. Basically, I'm trying to do this without having to disassemble the whole rear-end of my jet ski as it is getting old and parts are becoming harder to find for pre-1996 SeaDoos.

 

[Thumper3322]

Mine was stuck thanks to silicone, I had to take the tie down wraps you use for the back of the ski to the trailer. Wrap it in and around the inside of the jet pump where the kind of fins are, in and out half way around and pull it tight so it is pulling equally. Attached that to a come-along attached to a tree and very slowly tighten it. It broke free. Pulled the wear ring right out so saved that step lol. The wear ring came off really easily.

Honestly, any other way will just be an insane job. I made sure it was pulling very straight, and again very slowly with the odd tap with a mallet to help loosen it. When setup, took 3 min. to get it off.

 

[Dr Honda]

Before you start pulling too hard... did you take the cooling hose, and bailers off from inside the hull?


But as they said above... someone glued the pump on with RTV. It makes it very hard to remove, and add's a lot of extra work to a pump service, since you will have to clean all of the old RTV off the hull, before reassembly. This is exactly why I say to use the seadoo neoprene seal.

 

[LouDoo]

If you have a big problem I have a drawing somewhere of how to build a home made puller with a couple of 2x4's and some all thread. It works similar to the special SeaDoo tool shown in the manual. I've never needed to make one, "gentle" coaxing will usually get it un-stuck. Let me know if you want me to post it, I'll see if I can find it this evening.

Lou

 

[El Toro 33809]

Tlyons, my mother grew up in Decatur and my aunt lived there all her life. Her home was on W Sherwood.

 

[Strizzo]

i spent the better part of 3 hours tugging and pulling at mine before i was able to get it free. eventually i got a pair of channel locks under one of the tabs and pried it up enough to break the sealant loose. that stuff was a mess, took another hour or so to get all the old sealant scraped off the pump and the hull, too.

 

[LouDoo]

You might want to try something like this, especially like the one on the right end, or even a flat pry bar. I used a flat pry bar on my 96GSI where some dumb ass (me) siliconed the pump to the hull. But the pump just mounts directly to the fiberglass on that model.

http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-nylon-pry-bar-installer-kit-95214.html

Lou

 

[Minnetonka4me]

when they are bad I double or triple up a rope thru the pump, then put the trailer on the truck and start pulling on the rope with the bobcat.

I had one over the winter where even that wasnt working....I was moving my truck. Put a bunch of weight on it then smacked it with a hammer.

Lou has the right tool above....if it isnt too bad. just be careful not to crack the gelcoat.

 

[LouDoo]

Nick, that sounds pretty extreme, how ever being a shade tree mechanic I have put the trailer on the truck and used a come along around a tree.

Lou

 

[Thumper3322]

Come along makes it quick work.

what doc mentioned, I would assume that has already been done, I hope lol.

 

[Minnetonka4me]

Theres no problem big enough that more cylinders wont fix...lol

 

[Strizzo]

i just recalled a diagram from the shop manual that explained taking a 2x4 across the transom, and running some long bolts to the rear nozzle mounts and tightening them down to break the pump free. that was going to be my last resort, always sucks having stop your project to start a project to build a tool so you can finish the first project.