How To: Adding an in-line filter

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Dr Honda

Well-Known Member
Hi All,


OK, from time to time I see people asking about adding an in-line filter to their SeaDoo. I personally think it's a great idea since the screen in the "Water Separator" is not a very fine nesh... and anything that gets past that will wind up in the carbs, and cause poor performance.


OK... the big problem these days is that if you go up to the parts counter of your local auto parts store, and ask for a filter that is clear (so you can see if it's plugged up) with 1/4" hose fittings... the kid behind the counter will then ask you "what car is this for?" (IDIOT)


This thread really isn't a how to, but more for info. So... here is it. The filter that is fine enough to filter out the smallest particles of junk, is clear, and has 1/4" fittings is the Purolator F20011. Not only does this filter meet all the requirements needed, it also comes with OEM style spring clamps, and a couple chunks of rubber hose, and best of all... it has a retail of $3.99


To install this bad boy is easy. Either cut the rubber hose feeding the carbs, and push it in... or simply disconnect the hose at your water trap, and use one of the supplied rubber hoses to install it after.


Edit.......

one of our members has told me that this filter is actually a 5/16" filter. But, it will still fit in the 1/4 hose. This member has also given me a new part number to check. I will go buy the new number,and edit the post.



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Dr. H:

When you referred to the "Water Separator" in your Thread, were you focusing on the replaceable fuel filter under the hood of the PWC, or another item?

When I disassembled my carbs last summer because of a perceived fuel flow problem, (engine would loose power immediately upon acceleration) the internals looked brand new. That was a surprise when considering the fact that I had never cleaned them sand my Doo's are 93 GTX's.

Maybe I had bad gas? I will find out this weekend when I finally get my butt to the River.
 
Surfbeat....


Yes, the water separator I'm referring to is the factory plastic mesh filter. The design of the filter allows water to fall out, and be collected in the bottom of the bowl. It's not a perfect design for water separation, but it will catch a good portion of it, and if you keep you eye on it... you will be able to pour it out before it reaches your engine.



You are very lucky with the carbs. I've seen carbs that are only 5 or 6 years old, and are totally rotten on the inside.

Not to get off subject, but the hesitation could be caused by a leaky check valve on the high jet. What happens is the diaphragm side will drain down, and after you start it... it remains half empty. Eventually, you can get it to refill to feed the high jet, but as you idle, it will draw air back though the high jet causing the problem to happen again. (and a poor idle if it's leaking bad enough)


Too all...

Sorry I didn't get the other pics done yet. I will try to do them tonight after I get home from work.
 
A little overboard but hey...

...Only the best for my piece of junk :rolleyes: Racor Fuel/water Separator from Parker. Devon.
 

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Doc, did you ever get the new part number for the fuel filter?

I'm ready to add one as soon as I pull it out for the winter.

Thanks, Tim
 
100_0451.JPGFor you guys who can't find the Purolator filter, a Fram G-2 appears to be the same filter or at least a direct replacement, it also has the 5/16" ends, which works great the 1/4" fuel line, it allows more fuel flow. Fram G-12 is also the same filter without the hose clamps and short pieces of hose. See picture.

Walmart has both.

Lou
 
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Why not a washable style glass bowl race filter with a brass filter? I have a few still in packages from othe car projects.
 
Doc, did you ever get the new part number for the fuel filter?

I'm ready to add one as soon as I pull it out for the winter.

Thanks, Tim


Someone sent me a new part number... but when I checked it out... it was the wrong size. BUT... at advance auto... they had a 1/4" filter that fit better. (I put one in my XP this year) I'll try to get the number off it, and post it up. But... the 5/16" filter will go into the 1/4" rubber fuel hose without a prob.


Why not a washable style glass bowl race filter with a brass filter? I have a few still in packages from othe car projects.

We already have a "Washable" in the system... and they don't stop the very small particles. (and they can be a source of an air leak if the seals go bad) A paper filter is a nice, easy, low maintenance way of protecting the carbs.
 
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One thing to keep in mind is,,,
When you instal the filter you are making the inside diameter of the hose smaller than it was.
By that, if the hose inside diameter was 3/8 of an inch and you instal a filter that fits within the 3/8 of an inch hose, the passage within the tube is smaller now.
In most cases this may not be an issue, but I have seen where large engines get less fuel and they lose engine performance.
Am I saying I would not add a filter,,, No I am not. I think it can't hurt to have an extra filter. Just making a point is all. If someone does this and says,,, "why did I lose speed..."
 
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:agree: Good point that's why I like to use a 5/16" filter with 1/4" fuel line.

Lou
 
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i got the G2 fuel filter from NAPA and the inner diameter of the nipples its 1/4 so it would restrict flow in my case, it fits perfect on a 1/4 line but the problem is i need a filter for a 5/16 line. anyone?
 
See post #8 from Lou.
But if you have 5/16 line then get a filter that fits a 5/16th. If G-2 has 3/8 ends then it might fit *real tight* into a 5/16th line.
Just make sure it a fatty, like in the pics of the posts.
 
One last question about an inline fuel filter. Ever since i put one in each of my two GS's i've had to prime the line in order to get fuel to the carb after winterization. Is this normal? Typically i have to disconnect the line at the water seperator and use a large type syringe to force water into the Filter. Once it's full then it seems able to pull fuel to carb.

Suggestions?
 
See post #8 from Lou.
But if you have 5/16 line then get a filter that fits a 5/16th. If G-2 has 3/8 ends then it might fit *real tight* into a 5/16th line.
Just make sure it a fatty, like in the pics of the posts.

Sounds normal to me if its after winterizing..some of the gas can evaporate i guess or since its been stating so long slowly it can just empty out.
 
Raytec, (I didn't read the entire post, just the last few)..
Did you use hose clamps?
Unless there is a place for the fuel to evaporate to, it really cant go anywhere.

If you didn't use clamps, then I can see how it could evaporate. But even so, it would be at a VERY slow rate. If it were fast, then you would see an actual leak when the line is under pressure.
 
I do drain the fuel out of the fuel lines and carb for the winter but still thought the fuel would flow automatically when i opened the shutoff valve in the spring. It did prior to the fuel filter but I guess the filter doesn't allow a vacuum to form?? THe fuel does flow freely once I fill the filter by using a large syringe to push fuel into the line and filter.

Am I the only one who has to do this in the spring?
Thanks for all the help. Will need more once we own a couple used 4 strokes,
Raytec
 
Really no need to inject the lines with fuel. The carbs/engine will pull the gas thru the lines. You could fill both filters (inline and stock up front) with gas first if you wanted......the motor *might* sputter a bit while the air gets sucked out until the lines are full.
Pour a little gas/oil mix into the plug holes before trying to start for the first time after sitting for a long time with fuel drained.
 
kinda confused where this filter should go

there is a hose coming of the carb going to the oem filter already which is "IN" then from that it goes "OUT" and into the switch to control RES, ON or OFF. Is this correct or do i have it backwards?
so then where would an inline filter go? is it still on this same hose but before the oem filter so closer to the carb?
 
The "OUT" port of the filter is the one closest to the carbs. The "In" one is coming from the Fuel selector/ tank area.

By your description you already have an in-line filter so just replace it with a new one...throw the old away.

Can you post a picture?

murjiim - After looking at your other post http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?47155-oil-pump-and-adjusting-it&p=224276#post224276

I think the fuel filter you bought is for the "under the hood" one which is standard. The longer white filter with a nipple on both ends is the in-line oil filter (about $13 at dealership)...DO NOT INTERCHANGE THEM.
The in-line fuel filter should be about $4-$6 at a auto parts store..a semi-clear big fatty one.
 
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yes i got the oil filter i know which one what is...
the fuel filter there is the standard one that goes inside this (see pic)
my question is how is this connected as there is 'in' and 'out' as per arrows. is the 'in' line coming from carb or from the switch ?
also i bought a fatty semi clear filter for like $5 from auto parts store...where does this filter hook up? to what line? is it the line from the carb to the under the hood filter in the pic below?
 

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There's a fuel line that runs from the out of the water seperator/filter that you are holding, in the picture the arrow is pointing toward you.

Trace that line to the carb. inlet, cut that line in a convenient location, to make it easier to change next time, install the filter there. Here's a picture for mine. It's a Fram G2 filter.

Lou
 

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