2001 RX DI multiple small issues.

[mikekirk9020]

New owner mistakes.

1) Took new to me ski to lake and noticed that the ski was overheating. looked on line and saw that multiple issues could cause this. Cleared grating and intake. Nothing noticed. Flushed system with hose. Nothing noticed. Used air compressor and blew system out. Unhooked the #4 connector from MPEM and checked resistance on WTS. Came out about approximately 1500 Ohms. I am pretty sure that this is the problem.

2) Took ski to lake and sure enough, blinking red light and maintenance flashing. It is in limp mode. I am now ordering a new sensor to replace the the one that read poorly. Would this cause the limp home mode? When sensor is replaced, will ski come out of limp mode without taking to dealership?

3) While son was blowing out the lines, he blew compressed air up the bailer tubes in the venturi. He said he heard a pop on both lines. Ski now takes on water. Is there a check valve on these bailers? Could the pressure have broken the check valves or popped the lines?

thanks, I live over 2 hours from a dealer and 1 hour from a local shop. I am usually pretty good witht reading manuals and fixing my own stuff, but I am just new to Jet skis/PWC


Mike

 

[LouDoo]

I don't know a lot about 951's and especially 951DI's, but I don't think the VTS (assuming misspelled WTS) would have anything to do with overheating.

I think I can help you with the bailer tubes, this system works on a venturi at the pump, as far as I know there are no check valves, the tubes should be tied up high in the hull, if the most upper part of the tube is below the water line water will siphon back in through the bailers. So the pop your son heard was probably just a blockage clearing.

Lou

 

[Dr Honda]

..... So the pop your son heard was probably just a blockage clearing.

Lou

Or.... he blew the tubes out of the nozzle.


Look into the pump, and you should see the tubes hanging down from the top. They are just pressed in, with the resistance of the O-rings holding them. If they come out... you will pump water in.


But as Lou said... the hoses need to be zip-tied up. There isn't a valve in the system... just height of the hose keeps the water from free flowing in.


It sounds like you found the over temp issue. Replace the sender, and check the wire for damage.


As far as "Coming out of limp mode"... you should be able to reset it yourself. BUT... since I don't own a Di... I don't remember how. BUT... it does say how to reset an error message in the owners manual. If you need that... you can down load it from Seadoo's web site under the "Owner center" tab.

 

[mikekirk9020]

but I don't think the VTS (assuming misspelled WTS) would have anything to do with overheating.


Lou

Thanks. I meant water temperature sensor. I ordered one last night and am waiting untill this weekend to install.

 

[mikekirk9020]

Or.... he blew the tubes out of the nozzle.


Look into the pump, and you should see the tubes hanging down from the top. They are just pressed in, with the resistance of the O-rings holding them. If they come out... you will pump water in.


But as Lou said... the hoses need to be zip-tied up. There isn't a valve in the system... just height of the hose keeps the water from free flowing in.


It sounds like you found the over temp issue. Replace the sender, and check the wire for damage.


As far as "Coming out of limp mode"... you should be able to reset it yourself. BUT... since I don't own a Di... I don't remember how. BUT... it does say how to reset an error message in the owners manual. If you need that... you can down load it from Seadoo's web site under the "Owner center" tab.

Thank you. Ill do some more research.

I am considering getting a "candoo" system due to the long distance to authorized dealer. Has anyone used one? Pros and cons?

 

[mikekirk9020]

just did a search. thanks. looks like a candoo is in my future if the sensor doesnt clean up the problem.

 

[mikekirk9020]

Ok, took RX DI to local mechanic shop. he place on CanDoo and sure enough, the temperature sensor was not reading. I replaced it today and no joy. I checked resistance on the sensor and it read approximately 2500 Ohms. checked it the MPEM plug and got the same reading. x checked the wiring diagram to make sure that I had the right wires on the MPEM plug and it was good. Still picking up a maintenance light (blinking light of wallet death). double checked maintenance manual and it stated to replace MPEM. reallly don't want to have to do that and want to rule out all other variables.

I am open to suggestions now. I am taking ski back to mechanic and Candoo box to see if we ended up getting a new code.

help is much appreciated.

 

[manolocross]

"Blinking light of wallet death".., holy crap that is funny!!! Hahaha lol

 

[mikekirk9020]

Unless it's your wallet:agree:

 

[Spimothy Leary]

Unless it's your wallet:agree:

ya, BUT,, that was funny, I gave it a thumbs up just for creativity.... and I just might use it in the future for forgive me in advance for future plagiarism, because this is just too dam good to not share again

start with the diagnostics, look for a new code, and proceed from there.

 

[mikekirk9020]

Ok, Update time for those of you following this miserable post.

took to the code reader again.

Ok, only a few non active electrical faults and multiple active faults on the engine temperature sensor. I am assuming that this is the sensor located at the top of the block behind the fuel rail. If there is another temp sensor, i am not seeing it. I pulled that temp sensor (it was a bosch) took the numbers to napa and will have a new one tomorrow morning. 18.00$ VS 78.00$ from stealership. I am going to try that one just for fun before I replace the voltage regulator/rectifier that is behind the MPEM (because i like throwing money in this hull). If that does not work, I will most likely have to find a new MPEM, OUCH!!!

I have also checked the resistance on both the old sensor, new sensor, and both sensors on the #4 end. I even took the plug apart and lightly squeezed the female wire sockets just to make sure that the contact with the MPEM was good.

BTW I know lots of places that will rebuild brains on trucks, cars, and others. Why don't they refurb these?

 

[lamajama]

If you're looking for a non-oem - cheaper and stronger - rectifier - this has been posted before.

http://www.osdparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_free_shipping_info&cPath=6&products_id=8

 

[mikekirk9020]

Also just checked EGT sensor at MPEM. Good to go. I just don't get why the computer will not read sensor.

 

[DooWacka]

3) While son was blowing out the lines, he blew compressed air up the bailer tubes in the venturi. He said he heard a pop on both lines. Ski now takes on water. Is there a check valve on these bailers? Could the pressure have broken the check valves or popped the lines?

Yes there are check valves shown on the parts diagram (#59):
http://fiche.seadoowarehouse.com/seadooforums/showmodel.asp?Type=13&make=seadoopwc&a=219&b=27&c=0&d=-BODY-(FRONT-VIEW)-W/-BAILER
However, the flow direction arrows shown on the part appear backward, since the bailers suck.

Also, there are people that rebuild some issues on the MPEM. For example the blown components associated with "jump starting". You could probably search the forum for those repairs and find someone that may know.

 

[ski-d00]

I'll bet if you replace the rectifier, all will be well. They fail constantly and make it do weird things and gives odd readings on BUDS and makes it seem like the MPEM is not working properly. The 4tec ones seem to work better on the DIs.

For the check valves in the bailers, you don't really need these as long as the hoses are up high and the pitot tubes in the nozzle are still there.