2001 gs starting/runnning issues

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So I made a tool and got some leak tests done..the first two in the manual seemed to go fine. The last one I didn't do as I don't have a plate with a valve to block to exhaust.

I put the starter on and it moves nicely, now the rebuilt carb. I took apart the accelerator pump, and cleaned it out. Put the springs all back etc. Should I prime the system with fuel before I try to do any Start testing?
 
It should pull fuel pretty quickly.
I like to leave the return line off the carb and blow some air into it which will pressurize the fuel tank and force fuel through the carb. As soon as you see fuel dripping out of the return fitting on the carb put the hose back on and it is primed.
 
I couldn't get the fuel tank out when I redid the lines, if I blow into the line with the selector on, should I get back pressure?

I'm.worried I mixed up the lines lol
 
Yes, you will get back pressure in all of them if the tank is sealed.
The top of the fuel sending unit is labeled for all hoses.. RES, ON, RET, VNT.
 
Ah OK. The on should be passing through the filter basket at the front end as well yes, I followed the diagram in the manual.

Should I allow the pressure to escape before I put the line back on the carb? Or put it on with the pressure in the line.?

I will double check that they are in the right place
 
k1llua said:
Ah OK. The on should be passing through the filter basket at the front end as well yes, I followed the diagram in the manual.

Should I allow the pressure to escape before I put the line back on the carb? Or put it on with the pressure in the line.?

I will double check that they are in the right place
Click to expand...
Pretty sure the on from the fuel baffle goes to the ON, in the fuel selector valve, OUT from selector valve goes to Fuel filter and lithe inlet line to the carbs goes to the other fitting on the fuel filter
 
burtshaver2021 said:
Pretty sure the on from the fuel baffle goes to the ON, in the fuel selector valve, OUT from selector valve goes to Fuel filter and lithe inlet line to the carbs goes to the other fitting on the fuel filter
Click to expand...
Correct.

I just let the pressure in the tank stay unless it escapes butting the hose on. Not a big deal either way.
 
I checked all the lines again and it's good. Blew jnto the return and then tightened it before it was out of pressure, pumped the throttle a few times and I heard the little squirter from the jet.

It's all back together now, and it started up okay. I only let it idle for 10 seconds and shur it off. Good amount of white smoke, which I guess is all rhe oil I've used putting it back together and such.

If it keeps smoking, I could have a small oil leak, and I can solve it with a oil line valve basically from what I read around.

how long should I expect it to idle when I put the hose onto it, before assuming it's OK to wet test?
 
It should be idling steady for at least a few seconds before you turn the water.
There is no reason to let it run for more than 30 seconds on the hose. The only thing you are doing on the hose is checking for water leaks.
Don't be one of those people that think they are going to break it in on the hose for minutes or hours.

Remember the water is never on when the engine is off.
 
So, I'm having an odd thing happen. After it was sitting on the charger the battery was reading 12.77.

The ski started nicely, then this morning it didn't jump like it did yesterday. Voltage now reading 12.62. Then after another crank or two it dropped again to 12.57.
This is pretty much a pooched battery I guess..

I'm going to take it to be tested today.
Is it possible the starter is drawing too much voltage. Or the rectifier is just draining the battery?

Anyways, getting closer to the lake with each step. Thanks a lot for all the input, can't believe how much you all know about these things.
 
Nothing wrong with 12.57 volts at rest, check the volts at idle, should be around 13.5 and then check at 4500 rpm and it should be around 14 volts.
 
Check the voltage when cranking, it should not drop below 12V. Resting doesn't tell you what it is doing under a load.
 
It is dropping down to around 11.3-11.4.
It started once in the water in the trailer, didn't see any leaks so I gave it a bit of throttle and it seemed fine. Turned it off and set it free, cranked no start. Checked voltage as it cranked and it was dropping.


Is it worth trying the "repair" cycle on my charger unit, or better to just get a new one?
 
New battery cranks much better today. So I think I traced my problem to a Crack in the threads of the fuel filter basket. The thing the sender sends the gas through... gas was leaking from it when I was trying to start the engine. Then when I unscrewed it a bit gas just stared blasting out of it.

Can I bypass this thing with a couple or an inline filter? I think it's causing the carb to suck air and not pulling enough gas..
 
No, don't use aftermarket filters. Just buy a new one.
The bad news is that Seadoo has recently discontinued them.
 
When I opened it up earlier there was no filter in it, the one I got from the seadoo dealer barely fits, it's a bit too long and I think that has been causing the issues with the fuel coming into the carb all bubbly.

The whole unit would need to be changed now?
 
k1llua said:
When I opened it up earlier there was no filter in it, the one I got from the seadoo dealer barely fits, it's a bit too long and I think that has been causing the issues with the fuel coming into the carb all bubbly.

The whole unit would need to be changed now?
Click to expand...
Could be, what do you have for fuel lines? I had some clear lines that were giving me issues so I put in continental black fuel lines.
 
I redid all the line with new black auto fuel lines.. back to the shop haha. I'll replace the whole unit
 
K, so I have now replaced all the fuel lines and the whole circuit really, except for the sender and baffle, which seem impossible to remove lol.

I got the ski to fire up, rode it around the launch for 10 mins. Then shut it off and checked it out. Battery was at 12.8, it was cranking pretty good.

Started it again and it blew out a good amount of white smoke, then cleaned up and I drove it home. Once i got it on my dock and left it for a bit, it was taking a few extra cranks to start. I got it going again, white smoke before it got to full throttle. Then it just died at throttle again.

Took it home and the battery read 12.3. It charged back up fast, and was back at 13.05 again after an hour maybe. Today I took the battery out to the ski again and it fired up but idled a bit rough, then the very thick smoke came out again and it eventually cleared up. It seems to be pretty thick, I took a photo I'll attach when I can.

At idle it was only reading 12.65. Not sure where to go from here.

Oh also, I put a valve in the oil line between the filter and the injector. I have it off when the ski is off.
 

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Just went back through this thread...

Did you ever rebuild the carb using all new Genuine Mikuni parts and follow the carb rebuild thread exactly?
 
Do no use aftermarket kits, this includes WSM.
Order the correct parts and do it again unfortunately.
 
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