1994 SeaDoo SPI Help!?

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SeadooMan8

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I've recently bought a 1994 SPI and before I got it guy ran it
For me, etc. When I brought it home I decided to run it again, just to hear it and put it to rest for the rest of winter. As I started the machine it turned over amazing, and when it started it sounded good (for the first five seconds). During while It was running it sounded like Something hard/metal got sucked in through the intake, and it stopped the engine. My immediate reaction was to pull the head, and so I did and there is no damage to the piston or cyclinder walls. I decided to try and move the engine by hand, and I did but it was extremely hard to do. I took notice that the rear piston would go through all cycles but the front would only make it down to the exhaust port, and would still be covering the intake port. My guess is Somthing is on crankcase jamming it? Need help ASAP. Afraid to hear what some people have to say... :facepalm:
 
Bottom line is, if the rear piston cycles properly and the front one does not, you have a problem.

Could be a broken connecting rod, piston pin, or the piston itself failed around the piston pin area.

Sounds to me that you need to go deeper than the head....
 
Coastiejoe said:
Bottom line is, if the rear piston cycles properly and the front one does not, you have a problem.

Could be a broken connecting rod, piston pin, or the piston itself failed around the piston pin area.

Sounds to me that you need to go deeper than the head....
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Yeah, I was really thinking Something like that. When I first didn't know what happened I kept hitting the start button really hoping that it wasn't seized and when I did that, the starter pushed it through all the cycles with no grinding sounds or poping, and I honestly
Thought Something was jamming it bad. I don't know if that changes what you said at all because of how it goes through the cycles with using the starter. Also the front piston moves all the way up and down to the exhaust ports and just barely shows the intake port only when I move it by hand.
 
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I'm confused.

You said the rear piston cycled fine but the front didn't. Now you are saying it does? Or am I misreading your post?
 
I'm confused.

You said the rear piston cycled fine but the front didn't. Now you are saying it does? Or am I misreading your post?
 
Coastiejoe said:
I'm confused.

You said the rear piston cycled fine but the front didn't. Now you are saying it does? Or am I misreading your post?
Click to expand...

Okay, let me try this again. It's a 584 Rotax Engine in a 1994 Seadoo SPI. The other day when I went to run it, it ran good
For five seconds then a loud clang clang clank, and the engine stopped. I pulled the head and there was no damage to the pistons or cyclinders. When I went to turn it by hand the pistons moved (rear going through all cycles front only going down to exhaust port) so I decided to try and crank it over with the starter, and then both would crank through all cycles(like two times) and get jammed/ stuck again. Maybe that cleared it up a bit? Sorry for the misunderstanding..
 
If the rear went through all cycles, the front MUST or something is wrong. By hand or by starter should not matter.

My point is, you have hard parts that connect everything. Not soft parts that can "give" if you will.

Let's get the view of others but I'm sticking with you have something seriously wrong if I am understanding you correctly.
 
Coastiejoe said:
If the rear went through all cycles, the front MUST or something is wrong. By hand or by starter should not matter.

My point is, you have hard parts that connect everything. Not soft parts that can "give" if you will.

Let's get the view of others but I'm sticking with you have something seriously wrong if I am understanding you correctly.
Click to expand...

One way or another the engine will be pulled just to look and see what damage was actually done, but yeah, hopefully
Others will reply..
 
Yea man, I'm afraid it doesn't sound like a problem that can just happen and go away :/ Sounds like bottom end or piston damage. Fortunately, 587 parts are the cheapest. Good luck!
 
IDoSeaDoo said:
Yea man, I'm afraid it doesn't sound like a problem that can just happen and go away :/ Sounds like bottom end or piston damage. Fortunately, 587 parts are the cheapest. Good luck!
Click to expand...

I'm thinking about just putting a new engine in and maybe looking to salvage parts from this one, SBT has a new engine for around $495 and the installation gaskets are like 29.95. Any where cheaper I could look?
 
You could pull it apart and at least find out what's wrong, but chances are, it's terminal. That engine is 20 years old bro. They'll take an engine if you just pull a jug off. Also, you should brace yourself for shipping costs. It'll be around $100 (I think).
 
IDoSeaDoo said:
You could pull it apart and at least find out what's wrong, but chances are, it's terminal. That engine is 20 years old bro. They'll take an engine if you just pull a jug off. Also, you should brace yourself for shipping costs. It'll be around $100 (I think).
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Yeah sbt is in Clearwater Florida and I'm in PA. Not gonna be happy with the shipping but hey, new engine new parts, old ski... Is it worth it?
 
Depends. The new seadoo spark is coming, and if you're okay with how it looks, it's a brand new ski for $5000 and will have better power and fuel economy than the SPI and still weigh the same. You can get those on a pretty cheap payment plan. Then again, your ski is pretty fun too, and pretty damn good on gas as well. With that new engine, you should be relatively trouble free. Decide for yourself, it's probably cheaper overall to keep the one you have, but you can unlock the spark to 109hp and have A LOT more fun with it))) If you're asking whether it's worth it to just buy a rebuilt engine rather than just fixing your old one, I think the answer is yes. Your engine is 20y/o and probably has weak seals and a tired (if not broken) crank. The crank alone costs $200+. If you can get the whole thing fixed for $600 and get a new ski out of it, I'd do it. Especially if you plan on riding it alot. Just make sure your lake is not going to outlaw 2-strokes anytime soon ;)
 
IDoSeaDoo said:
Depends. The new seadoo spark is coming, and if you're okay with how it looks, it's a brand new ski for $5000 and will have better power and fuel economy than the SPI and still weigh the same. You can get those on a pretty cheap payment plan. Then again, your ski is pretty fun too, and pretty damn good on gas as well. With that new engine, you should be relatively trouble free. Decide for yourself, it's probably cheaper overall to keep the one you have, but you can unlock the spark to 109hp and have A LOT more fun with it))) If you're asking whether it's worth it to just buy a rebuilt engine rather than just fixing your old one, I think the answer is yes. Your engine is 20y/o and probably has weak seals and a tired (if not broken) crank. The crank alone costs $200+. If you can get the whole thing fixed for $600 and get a new ski out of it, I'd do it. Especially if you plan on riding it alot. Just make sure your lake is not going to outlaw 2-strokes anytime soon ;)
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Hey guys thanks a lot for the help. I'm taking it into my technical school and I'm gonna tear it apart and see if it's salvageable at all. If it is I'm gonna replace all seals and bearings, I'll let you all know how it goes! Still looking for what you think it is though
 
SeadooMan8 said:
Hey guys thanks a lot for the help. I'm taking it into my technical school and I'm gonna tear it apart and see if it's salvageable at all. If it is I'm gonna replace all seals and bearings, I'll let you all know how it goes! Still looking for what you think it is though
Click to expand...

Too many options to nail the answer down just yet.

That said, I'm guessing in the piston. Or piston pin area but not all the way broken. That would explain movement but not full stroke.
 
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SeadooMan8 said:
Yeah sbt is in Clearwater Florida and I'm in PA. Not gonna be happy with the shipping but hey, new engine new parts, old ski... Is it worth it?
Click to expand...

I shipped a 587 with a few other things inside the tub for about $71 from Florida to Michigan. That was in March of 2012.
 
SeadooMan8 said:
Yeah sbt is in Clearwater Florida and I'm in PA. Not gonna be happy with the shipping but hey, new engine new parts, old ski... Is it worth it?
Click to expand...
Your only about 45 min from SES you could try there,and save some shipping cost, if your looking for a rebuild. He usually pays shipping one way so you should be able to negotiate a bit on his internet prices.

http://www.seadooengineshop.com/
 
sounds like to me a bolt fell down into the rotary valve i would pull the carbs off and see if the rv plate is moving when you turn the motor over by hand. if it is the rotary valve u might be able to get away with just replacing the brass gear inside the motor. u will still have to pull the motor out and strip it down to replace it but it would be alot cheaper then buying a whole new motor if thats the case.
 
eddie708 said:
sounds like to me a bolt fell down into the rotary valve i would pull the carbs off and see if the rv plate is moving when you turn the motor over by hand. if it is the rotary valve u might be able to get away with just replacing the brass gear inside the motor. u will still have to pull the motor out and strip it down to replace it but it would be alot cheaper then buying a whole new motor if thats the case.
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That's what I was thinking. I just don't understand why it would happen to me when I try to start it when he started it for me there. I was thinking that the throttle fin screw came loose and went into the engine but it didn't rev up real high so I doubt that was it.
 
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