Torn boot, not sure what the underlying problem is please help!!

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AirJordan613

AirJordan613

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Hi everyone. I was launching my '93 gtx when I noticed water rushing in. Lucky I never unhooked it from the trailer or it would be a goner. The drive shaft boot is torn. The motor end of the boot itself spins when the motor is turning which is why the boot tore. What do I need to do to fix this? This is my first post on this site so if this is a simple problem please don't grill me. Thanks in advance!!
 

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The "underlying problem" is lack of maintenance.

On the end of that boot (under the gray cover) there is a seal pack. In between the seals, is a bearing. When that bearing rusts (because no one is greasing it) it will seize to the shaft, and it eats itself. Normally, it rips the fitting out of the hull... so you got lucky that it only ripped the boot..

You will need a new hose, and a new seal pack. Also... there is a high probability that you will need a new drive shaft also. (Depending on the damage found, once it's apart)
 
Thanks for the quick reply. It is true that this seadoo wasn't maintained as well as it should have been. Is this a repair that I can do? I'd imagine the pump comes out first then the drive shaft then the boot which would allow access to the bearing? I've never done extensive work on a seadoo before but because of this ones age and present value I see no reason not to at least give it a try considering it doesn't even float now. If there's already threads or write ups detailing a similar repair could you point me in the right direction? Thanks.
 
It's a easy fix.

You will pull the pump:

1) Remove the hoses on the inside
2) Remove the 4 bolts on the nozzle
3) Remove the 4 nuts on the pump
4) Slide it off.

Note: there may be shims behind the pump. DO NOT LOOSE THEM, OR MIX THEM UP !!!! Also, if some hillbilly mechanic worked on it before, the pump may be glued on with RTV. When you put it back together, use a neoprene gasket.


Once the pump is off... as long as the seal pack didn't weld itself to the drive shaft... the shaft will pull out. And, then you can pull the seal pack, and what's left of the boot.

At that point, you can rebuild the pack, or just buy a new one. (about $45 on eBay) If the sealing/bearing surface on the drive shaft is beat up... you will need a new shaft.


Once you get all the new parts in... you will want to grease that seal pack AFTER every ride. That will push out any water that may get into it.
 
Hopefully the shaft isn't bad. This ski would stay in the water on lake Erie and I would go swimming once a week to keep the algae off. It was fine at the end of the season, and when I went to launch it next season this happened. If I replace everything bad how much money do you think I'll be looking at spending? I have no problem with eBay.
 
I believe your ski the pump mounts directly to the hull. It's supposed to have a neoprene seal but some Appalachian technician has apparently worked on it, Dr Honda uses the term hillbilly mechanic. You're just going to have to work on it, putty knife, I've used a prybar, put a piece of cloth between the prybar and the hull so you won't damage the gel cote. These work pretty good if you have a Harbor Freight nearby.

http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-nylon-pry-bar-installer-kit-95214.html

Lou
 
320.jpg
I'm prying with a 2 ft crowbar right now and tapping it with a hammer and it ain't budging
 
Just keep working on it. I think some one use a 2X4 across the hull and used a gear puller, but IDK how it was set up.
Use a putty knife around the edges.

BTW, how did the pump oil look when you removed the cone? Was it black and smelly or a little milky? Replace the cone O-ring.


You can clean the hull with Zing, Hull Magic, toilet bowl cleaner or one of many other cleaners for dirty fiberglass. Just make sure you clean it on land so cleaner doesn't drip into the lakes.
 
Oil that came out of the cone was green but not milky. I tried using a ratchet strap to a big rock and I broke my strap. This pump hasn't been off for 19 years I think it's stuck for good.
 
Ahhhh true, you may have to remove the ride plate. Follow the manual to reinstall it, I think silicone is used, I've never removed one before, others have so they may answer more fully about it.
 
Actually SeaDoo has a tool for removing the pump it's in the service manual, you can make a home made version with a couple of 2x4's and some all thread, I've always managed to remove the pump with just a little persuasion.

BTW, the ski comes from the factory with a neoprene seal some shade tree mechanic glued the pump to the hull.

Lou
 
Well I got the ski around '98 and it's a '93 so whatever that sealant is its been there for a long time because the only work this ski has ever seen from is a carb rebuild besides maintained which I obviously didn't do frequently enough.
 
And could I just use a long bolt instead of all thread? I'm assuming I thread it into the bolt holes that the nozzle attached to?
 
I use short pry bars. Normally, under the edge of each of the mounting ears, is a lip. You can get a short, 90 degree bar in there... and pry it up.

If the last guy who serviced it would have used the gasket... it would have pulled off.


Just to make sure... you did remove the hoses from the inside... Right? (cooling hose, and 2 bailer hoses)


I use something like this:

http://www.harborfreight.com/15-1-2-half-inch-flat-pry-bar-2529.html

I use 2 of them together. At opposet corners, and go back and forth. That will normally rip the RTV. Also... remember... you have a driveshaft in the impeller, so you don't want to force it too far off center.
 
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Tony,

I can't believe you shop at Harbor Freight, I was just there, it appears that I have at least one of everything they have in the store.

Lou
 
Dr Honda said:
I use short pry bars. Normally, under the edge of each of the mounting ears, is a lip. You can get a short, 90 degree bar in there... and pry it up.

If the last guy who serviced it would have used the gasket... it would have pulled off.


Just to make sure... you did remove the hoses from the inside... Right? (cooling hose, and 2 bailer hoses)


I use something like this:

http://www.harborfreight.com/15-1-2-half-inch-flat-pry-bar-2529.html

I use 2 of them together. At opposet corners, and go back and forth. That will normally rip the RTV. Also... remember... you have a driveshaft in the impeller, so you don't want to force it too far off center.
Click to expand...

I only unhooked one hose it's black and runs to the port side. Are these the bailer hoses
322.jpg
 
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