Drive shaft

[Clizano12]

I hoping you guys can help me figure out what I’m doing wrong if anything is wrong at all. I’ve been working on a over haul on a 97 GSX I replaced the carbon seal and when I reinstall the drive shaft I have this little space between the impeller boot and the flange on the driveshaft I don’t know if there is a tolerance that is allowed for this or not. To me I wouldn’t think there is and it needs to be snug. I’ll post some pictures and I’m hoping you guys can tell me what I’m doing wrong, thanks!

 

[whitewheels]

There should be a rubber "bumper" at both(or maybe just at the flywheel end [emoji848] ) ends of the shaft.... Easy to miss

 

[Clizano12]

I replaced those bumpers with brand new ones thinking that was it at first.

 

[mikidymac]

I wouldn't really worry about it.

It's not fully seated so I would run it and then check and see if it changes.

 

[etemplet]

Did you make sure the holes were clean and clear? Sometimes rubber pieces parts remain in there after you remove the shaft.

 

[1of500]

Shoot a few pumps of grease in the pto zirc it will close it up

 

[Clizano12]

I’ll try shooting grease into the zirc if that doesn’t do it I’ll double check it’s cleaned out in the holes. Thanks for the tips everyone!

 

[Mekanix]

Engine alignment.

Part of the alignment process is how far back to put the motor.
Of its too far forward the shaft can move back and forth and the bumpers can't really hold it in place. The pressure from the carbon seal will always push the driveshaft towards the motor and out of the pump side.

Usually what I do is install the engine and driceshaft and pump but leave the carbon seal out. Then see how much room the driveshaft has to move in and out.
Then adjust the motor mounts back untill there is no play. I mean snug but not very hard. The bumpers will settle a little and it shouldn't place too much pressure on the crank.

After that check alignment with the tool and align the engine while maintaining the same distance and making sure it doesn't slip forward and then check with the pump again afterwards.

I usually do this if there is alot of driveshaft rattle in the water at idle.
What I've seen is water getting pulled past the prop seal from the driveshaft moving in and out.

 

[Mekanix]

Also get rid of that clamp on the pto boot.
At 7000 rpm that thing may fail or at least fan out and cause an imbalance.
Either oem clamps or good quality zip ties offset so the weight is equal is better than clamps like that

 

[etemplet]

Also get rid of that clamp on the pto boot.
At 7000 rpm that thing may fail or at least fan out and cause an imbalance.
Either oem clamps or good quality zip ties offset so the weight is equal is better than clamps like that

Spot on again from my perspective. That engine needs to be in position like setting the thrust on the drive shaft. You can put the engine in a bind and I have seen it. I had a couple of engines where the second rubber bumper was not used. Good Stuff !! Keep up the excellent work!! We need good skis out there.