98 GS, no start

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Bill-H

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Good day all.
Just picked up a '98 GS that doesn't run (no crank). Battery is dead so I am charging that now.
When I connect a jump pack, (VERY dead battery disconnected) I do get 2 beeps, but nothing happens when I push the start button.
Jumped the solenoid, got a slight crank (Weak jump pack), so I believe the starter is OK and the engine is "free".
Checked the 4 fuses in the front electrical panel, all are OK.

Question, there are 6 fuse spots in the front fuse block (this boat only has 4 filled), should they all have fuses? If so, what sizes go where??


Thanks for any help.

Bill-H
 
DO NOT TRY TO START THE SKI ON A CHARGER OR JUMP PACK !!!!! The MPEM on these things are fragile, and they are known to smoke if hit with extra voltage. The jump pack is normally ok... but since they are fragile and expensive... why take a chance. (chargers are almost certain death)

Well... you have already answered your question. The battery was super dead, and was just bringing down the jump pack. Also... if the battery sat dead for a long time... it's not going to come back to life. These engines need a good healthy battery to crank, and fire. I would recommend just buying a new one.

Post a pic of where your fuses go. I'll be able to give you a better answer. (there is a spot for spares)
 
Ty for the response.
Was just trying to see if it'd crank, since I have NO history on it. Sure hope I didn't fry anything.

I think I found the fuse diagram in the shop manual (pic attached). Looks like I have a spare 5 and 15 in there (in the 2nd and 3rd spots from the top).

Will see if/how the battery comes back then start chasing wiring.

Question, If I get the "2 beeps" when I put the fob on, does that indicate the MPEM is OK? Troubleshooting indicates so. But I don't trust that. LOL
20180710_091747.jpg
Bill
 
It doesn't mean it is OK but it is a good sign and the two beeps recognises the lanyard.
 
Figures,
Guess I will just test functions then.

1st, Verify "full" battery.
2nd, Check wiring/switch functions.
3rd, Clean EVERYthing.

Thanks for the help :)
 
I had a similar problem when I bought mine. Found a broken earth wire under the exhaust by the throttle /oil cable. Might be worth checking there as its quite a thin wire and prone to corrosion
 
Small update (been travelling for work).
Did slow charge (3 days on trickle) on the battery, appears to have come back,. At least enough to test.

I get the 2 beeps when I connect the lanyard. Nothing when I press the start/stop button.

Tested the button, I get continuity when i press, open when not pressed. Check good.

Check for voltage on the signal at the Starter solenoid. Voltage when I press, nothing when I don't. Jump the relay with a wrench, engine cranks at an appropriate speed, Doesn't start. Appears we have a bad starter relay.

Registration expired in March of 15, Guessing the gas and oil is 4 years old.
New relay, oil, plugs and fuel filter are on order.
Gas and oil will be drained completely, replaced with new.

Now, I need to get fuel lines, and oil lines.
I have the part numbers/sizes of the lines but it doesn't say how much length for each. Just says (Meter) after each part number.
Any suggestions??


Bill
 
Small update (been travelling for work).
Did slow charge (3 days on trickle) on the battery, appears to have come back,. At least enough to test.

I get the 2 beeps when I connect the lanyard. Nothing when I press the start/stop button.

Tested the button, I get continuity when i press, open when not pressed. Check good.

Check for voltage on the signal at the Starter solenoid. Voltage when I press, nothing when I don't. Jump the relay with a wrench, engine cranks at an appropriate speed, Doesn't start. Appears we have a bad starter relay.

Registration expired in March of 15, Guessing the gas and oil is 4 years old.
New relay, oil, plugs and fuel filter are on order.
Gas and oil will be drained completely, replaced with new.

Now, I need to get fuel lines, and oil lines.
I have the part numbers/sizes of the lines but it doesn't say how much length for each. Just says (Meter) after each part number.
Any suggestions??


Bill

If you want clear lines for fuel and oil, search out 'Tygon' which stands up to it, I'd avoid vinyl.

1/2" line to feed the supply and return on the engine to the RV cavity, I used about 5 ft total on the GTX.
5/16" line from tank to oil pump, I ordered 2 feet, but used less than 1 foot after installing the filter.
3/32" line for oil injection to the RV, 5 feet total will work easy for both ports.
1/4" line for fuel, your're good to do everything including vents with about 20 feet.
 
New update.

I rebuilt the carb following This thread, to the letter.
Engine cranks well, Runs when I pour gas into the carb. Will NOT start via the carb / gas lines.
All new lines, new filter, pulled fresh gas through the "feed line" (so I know it can get gas).
Checked all the connections/screw settings multiple times.

Any ideas??
Bill
 
Change the fuel selector valve. You can run straight to the reserve on the tank while your waiting for it to come in.
 
Use a pump to get the gas to the carbs first and fill the lines and filter, that is what I do.
I "pulled" gas through the line, not into the carb though.

Is there a specific way the lines should hook to the carb? Feed /return wise. Have the selector on reserve. Should the feed be on the top or the bottom nipple??

And, can I disconnect the return from the tank and pull gas into/through the carb that way?
Someone else told me to hook vacuum to the pulse Port to pull gas. Assuming this won't work well till after priming.


Bill
 
Bypass the selector and run straight from reserve on the tank to the carb. Usually when changing the gray lines I have to change the selector also. U can’t clean it. Bypass it until u get one ordered.
 
Bypass the selector and run straight from reserve on the tank to the carb. Usually when changing the gray lines I have to change the selector also. U can’t clean it. Bypass it until u get one ordered.
I have not replaced the selector. I'll get one on order.

Thank you
 
Another question. The book spec screw settings are listed as
Low speed needle = 1 - 1/4 turns
High speed needle = 0 turns

IS it really 0= Seated?

Bill
 
OK,, plan for this evening;

Bypass the fuel selector switch, supplying from the tank to the carb from the tank reserve port (through the fuel filter/separator).
Connect lines via the arrows on the pulse port cover (Flow in/out of the carb)

Can I "pull" fuel through the carb by removing the return line from the tank and drawing fuel from the line?

Then, apply/remove vacuum from the pulse port to test fuel "pumping". If that works, hook lines up and test starting.
Anything else I am missing??


The "high speed" needle is really seated?? huh.
 
Yes it is seated. You can open it a little if u have issues at high throttle . I would personally spray premix in the carbs instead of doing all that with the return line and get it pulling fuel by itself. It may take a few tries.
 
I have done the "premix in the carb" a few times. runs for ~ 10 seconds each time. Not getting gas into the carb at all.
Does the flame arrestor have to be On??
 
No on the flame arrestor if your just trying to get it running. Double check those lines and make sure they are on the right nipple . I would bypass everything and run straight from the tank to the carb until you get it running.
 
Also when priming with premix, when it fires up pump the shiznit out of the throttle. Hopefully when u bypass the fuel selector it will pull gas.
 
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