I have a 2001 GTX DI that starts fine and will run on the lake for about a half hour. The Maint light comes on and it starts to run terrible. Sputtering, no throttle, etc. Take it out of the water and try to mess with it and it will crank and act like it is out of gas and will finally start but no throttle. Let it sit for a couple hours and it starts right up and runs great. Does the same thing again. Took to a shop and nothing shows on the diagnostics for codes. Took the battery out and had it load tested and they said it was fine. Have been told anything from a bad battery, stator, rectifier, main computer, etc. Anybody ever have any issues like this or have any good suggestions before this gets into too much money? Thanks in advance for your help.
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2001 GTX DI giving me fits
- Thread starter razoo
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Based on it running until thing get hot, I'm thinking a fuel issue.
The engine gets hot in 10 minutes or so but keeps running for 20 minutes or so more. This makes me think that I is not engine temp related.
I have seen fuel pumps fail once they get hot and then work again once they get cooled off.
I would suggest doing a fuel pump pressure test to see the numbers, then run it in the water like you have been, then do the test again when it shuts down. I'm thinking you are going to find a substantial drop.
The engine gets hot in 10 minutes or so but keeps running for 20 minutes or so more. This makes me think that I is not engine temp related.
I have seen fuel pumps fail once they get hot and then work again once they get cooled off.
I would suggest doing a fuel pump pressure test to see the numbers, then run it in the water like you have been, then do the test again when it shuts down. I'm thinking you are going to find a substantial drop.
Rectifiers don't normally kill the engine. It seems to affect the electronics and almost act as a RPM limiter. It isn't a bad job to do though. Probably easier then a fuel pressure test,,,
Piper Mike
Active Member
How long have you had the GTX DI ?
grinditout
Active Member
Check compression first.
fuel side is an easy test, check for pressure< make tool (see harbor freight) > if good pull injectors send to cleaner, they will test.
Then start running down the sensors with the book.
fuel side is an easy test, check for pressure< make tool (see harbor freight) > if good pull injectors send to cleaner, they will test.
Then start running down the sensors with the book.
- BiRkS_
Active Member
1. Check your gas cap and vent lines. Sounds like you are creating a vaccum and it takes hours for it to release slowly. (run the ski with a loose gas cap and see if the problem goes away, be aware of avoiding getting water in there!)
2. Check compression and fuel pressure. I would be more leaning towards a failing pump/clogged filter. Normally injectors that cause issues are when they are cold because that is when the fuel mixture must be crucial and leaking/sticking injectors will show more easily.
3. More of a maintenance item, check/clean your RAVES and inspect all crankcase pulse lines for any holes/leaks.
2. Check compression and fuel pressure. I would be more leaning towards a failing pump/clogged filter. Normally injectors that cause issues are when they are cold because that is when the fuel mixture must be crucial and leaking/sticking injectors will show more easily.
3. More of a maintenance item, check/clean your RAVES and inspect all crankcase pulse lines for any holes/leaks.
grinditout
Active Member
Vapor lock is a good possibility...
ski-d00
Well-Known Member
I assume you changed your spark plugs?
is it running like crap because it is in limp mode or because of some mechanical failure? it sounds like limp mode to me. there are different degrees of limp mode that it will limit the engine to including only idle speed and it will sputter and run terrible. if it is running like crap because it is going into limp mode, then something electrical has triggered it and it is doing exactly what it is supposed to do. rectifier is by far the most common reason for limp modes but several other things can cause it as well. I just fixed one by simply reseting the TPS that would run fine for 5-10 minutes and then go into limp mode and only allow idle speed rpms. (you need BUDS for this)
all active and occurred faults will be stored in the MPEM so it sounds like the shop that said it didn't have any codes doesn't really know what they are doing because if it said MAINT, it stored a code.
since you don't have BUDS, you need to tell us what it says on the lcd(just MAINT?) and the frequency and duration of the beeps, red light on/flashing, what rpm it is limiting the ski to, what happens when you remove and replace DESS key right away. how long does it take to return to normal? how long before it does it the next time and is this a consistent time period?
is it running like crap because it is in limp mode or because of some mechanical failure? it sounds like limp mode to me. there are different degrees of limp mode that it will limit the engine to including only idle speed and it will sputter and run terrible. if it is running like crap because it is going into limp mode, then something electrical has triggered it and it is doing exactly what it is supposed to do. rectifier is by far the most common reason for limp modes but several other things can cause it as well. I just fixed one by simply reseting the TPS that would run fine for 5-10 minutes and then go into limp mode and only allow idle speed rpms. (you need BUDS for this)
all active and occurred faults will be stored in the MPEM so it sounds like the shop that said it didn't have any codes doesn't really know what they are doing because if it said MAINT, it stored a code.
since you don't have BUDS, you need to tell us what it says on the lcd(just MAINT?) and the frequency and duration of the beeps, red light on/flashing, what rpm it is limiting the ski to, what happens when you remove and replace DESS key right away. how long does it take to return to normal? how long before it does it the next time and is this a consistent time period?
Thanks for all the input. Currently at a Platinum dealer and they are going to run it to duplicate the issue and put it on the computer. Hopefully they can find out the cause and hopefully something minor. Thought about the fuel issue delivery and storage as mentioned but after it was out of the water. Will give an update, hopefully tomorrow.
Dealer says everything points to a bad computer. Seadoo wants $2000 for one. Thinking about finding a used one and trying that. Won't put $2000 into a unit that old. Dealer says this unit is one of the few with a computer this high priced. Any ideas on compatible replacements? part number is 278001695. Thanks all:-(
Dugout
New Member
My 02 GTX DI went into limp mode a month ago. Dealer said computer was bad. I was lucky, it ended up being the rectifier. You've probably already done this. Check all of your connections. Are the connections clean, any corrosion, pins look good. A friend had a similar issue and the pins in one of the connectors was corroded.
Piper Mike
Active Member
If that doesn't work, they will probably want another $1000 to try a new fuel pump.
Soo,,, how about that fuel pump pressure ????
DooWacka
Active Member
If it runs great for 1/2 hour then acts up, it probably isn't the compression.
If the "Platinum" dealer has not done a fuel pressure test WHILE it is running poorly, then they are not worthy.
It sure sounds like a fuel pump, so ask the dealer what the test result was when acting up.
If the "Platinum" dealer has not done a fuel pressure test WHILE it is running poorly, then they are not worthy.
It sure sounds like a fuel pump, so ask the dealer what the test result was when acting up.
God dealers are a joke. Must be a $2000 computer....lol oh wait no it isnt...oh well. As Ski-doo said...it ALWAYS saves the faults; that is where I would have driven somewhere else.
BTW bud I could have saved you a rediculous amount on that MPEM and have all other Di parts in stock. I could have that sensor to you in 2-3 days.
Also...if I remember correctly, My bro has had a couple DIs have problems relating to the temp sensor on the water box. Not that its your issue here, but its a $20 used part and anyone could install it.
BTW bud I could have saved you a rediculous amount on that MPEM and have all other Di parts in stock. I could have that sensor to you in 2-3 days.
Also...if I remember correctly, My bro has had a couple DIs have problems relating to the temp sensor on the water box. Not that its your issue here, but its a $20 used part and anyone could install it.
Just to let everyone know, go t the ski back. They replaced the crankshaft sensor and it seems to run fine now. Yacht Club Marina in Missouri treated me very fair and I would have no problem recommending them to anyone. Talked with the mechanic and he said it was just one of those electronic things that go bad every so often. Hope this will give others something to look at if they experience the same issues.
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