02 XP Difficult to Start

[Djb0127]

Hey everyone! I bought a 2002 XP last week that runs fine once it is started, but is very difficult to start. It took me about 30 minutes and 1-1/2 batteries to get it to start cold. After it starts for the first time it easily restarts and runs fine. I got it fairly cheap and figured that it must be the carbs. What do you guys think?

I plan on rebuilding the carbs, but I wanted to get some other opinions first.

 

[seadooya]

right track

no need for rebuild kit, just go thru them, and have a look at the inline filter and inspect the o-ring. A bad one will constitute hard starting. With carbs off, take a look at the REEDS too, might wanna replace those, along with servicing your RAVES.:cheers: Replace yuor grey fuel lines, while im thinking of it.

 

[Djb0127]

no need for rebuild kit, just go thru them, and have a look at the inline filter and inspect the o-ring. A bad one will constitute hard starting. With carbs off, take a look at the REEDS too, might wanna replace those, along with servicing your RAVES.:cheers: Replace yuor grey fuel lines, while im thinking of it.

Thanks for the reply. I'm rookie at this stuff an have not taken apart any carbs yet. From what I have read, I cannot open up the carbs without replacing the gaskets and O-rings. Is this correct?

 

[seadoosnipe]

Clean the carbs...?

Thanks for the reply. I'm rookie at this stuff an have not taken apart any carbs yet. From what I have read, I cannot open up the carbs without replacing the gaskets and O-rings. Is this correct?

No, not really. If your just going to clean them, you just need to be careful pulling them off so you don't damage the gasket. That way, you can reuse it. Most carbed engines use gaskets that can be reused. Sometimes, you'll run into someone who has used a gasket sealant. If this is the case, then you may have to replace it. You can make that gasket (carb to manifold) with a piece of sheet gasket from your local auto parts store.

Having problems starting could be several things. Outside what the member above posted, you could have bad pop-off, a sticking needle valve or bad set-up on your lever to your needle valve.

Next time you want to start it, instead of going through so much trouble, get some of your fuel you use in your weed-eater or chain saw and take both your plugs out of the ski. Pour a small dab in both cylinders then put the plugs back in. That should help you get a start.

Is the skis choke connected? Are you using it correctly? If your not choking this motor from cold, it will be hard to start too. I'd also do a compression test to make sure you are generating enough manifold pressure to work your carbs correctly.

Oh, and if you have those grey fuel lines...........this is going to most def be your problem.........:cheers:

 

[Djb0127]

I have not had a chance to clean my carbs yet, but the fuel lines have been replaced and I did check compression. I am not getting the compression that I need. I am getting 135 psi in one and 110 psi in the other cylinder cold. Would this low compression be my problem? If so, would a top end kit fix this? How would I know if I would need a top end kit or an entire new engine?

 

[seadoosnipe]

Spread....?

I have not had a chance to clean my carbs yet, but the fuel lines have been replaced and I did check compression. I am not getting the compression that I need. I am getting 135 psi in one and 110 psi in the other cylinder cold. Would this low compression be my problem? If so, would a top end kit fix this? How would I know if I would need a top end kit or an entire new engine?

If your reading is in fact correct, then this is too much spread between the cylinders. You might consider doing a top end. If your pistons look good, no sign of bearing wear, then you could probably get away with just the upper end.

If you do, I'd at least seperate the bottom end and inspect; do the tests to make sure the crank is still within specs.

To do a complete upper end, you'll spend about half what it cost to do the entire motor.

I'd do the compression test again to be sure. Pour about a Coke cap full of gas and oil in each cylinder, then spin the motor over a couple times to blow the excess out. Then, do another test.:cheers:

 

[Djb0127]

So I have decided to go ahead and rebuild the top end. However, there are not many resources regarding a top end rebuild. Is it as simple as it looks? Just pop off the head, take out the old and install the new?

Can I order the same size pistons? How would I know if the walls need to be bored out? Please let me know if there are any available resources.

 

[seadoosnipe]

Pistons...?

It does sound like your motor may still be in good shape on the lower end. So, doing an upper end may be a good idea.

You'll want to find out if you presently have a standard bore. A lot of the time, you can look at the piston and it'll be marked. It it's really old, the imprint may be too hard to read and you'll have to measure it.

If your working from standard, you can bore over once. BRP doesn't recommend a second bore over due to the RAVE. Your standard size is 3.465". You will bore over .010" to roughly 3.474".

You can find several online websites that sell different quality pistons. I usually use Weisco pistons. There are some who you the Pro-X but, I've heard some bad things about them. I've never experienced that for myself, just some things I've heard from members. There are several places online that sell rebuild parts. If you shop around, you'll find out that these prices vary greatly from site to site. Here's one site I've used that was pretty inexpensive. Jetski Parts has a lot more than just pistons.

These places usually sell kits or pairs. If you need a single part, then please use www.seadoowarehouse.com. Many of our members choose to support our website by purchasing from the warehouse..:cheers: