hi seadoosnipe i was wondering if you had pictures of a rebuild on a jet pump? I have a 1999 seadoo challenger 1800 and my husband has taken the pumps out but wondering if he should continue to take the pump apart he does not have all the proper tools to do so as the manual suggest. PLEASE give us some insite on what to do also if you have some pictures of a rebuild it would be greatly appreciated!!!!!!
I read your posts on winterizing 4-tecs, I have an 08 RXT, I want the easiest possible way to winterize Just add stabilizer? run it for a couple of seconds? Since it is a close loop system is there really anything else should I do? Remove plugs and etc..
hey i have a couple of question about the air filter for my 89 bombardier and have and i have an after market Mikuni carb.which is about 2.75" across. The questions are is their a special type of air filter for a pwc because of the water? If so where can I get one or what brand and type would be best? The stock filter system is gone. What do I do?
Update from the BBB SE Florida regarding my numerous complaints about my experience with Broward Motorsports (Davie). BMS denied everyone of my complaints saying that they bent over backwards for me. LIARS!! I will continue with my complaint against them with the BBB. I will never step foot in BMS again. And that goes for my friends and family that own watercraft or even thinking of purchasing a watercraft.
Seems you're one of the main go-to people to ask questions, so here I am. I recently (within the last week) have rebuilt the top end on my 95 Sportster. Had to have it re-sleeved because it had been oversized past the max limit already, before the rear piston melted. Anyways, I really don't want any more engine damage as I bought this boat last fall and have spent $2000 already and had it on the lake for a total of 3 hours, most of that being towed back to shore. So my question is this. I noticed that there's an oil line going from tank to exhaust side of the engine block. Does oil fill up the crankshaft area for bottom end lubrication, or does that just pass through some part of the block? My crank was dry so I just want to make sure before I try to start this thing that there's not supposed to be oil in there. Having spent $500 on the new cylinders, I won't be able to save up that much money again for another year! Thank you for the help!
do you have the contact info for the allthingscustom? someone said u r the man...i have an electronic box i need rebuilt. my regular email is firstname.lastname@example.org...im in sc so if you know anyone this way that works too...thanks.
I have a question on my 2010 seadoo challenger 180 215hp. What should be my top end speed the dealer told me in mid 50's i have just passed the 6 hour point and have opened it up for the first time just after 6hours and i can only get to about 42 43TOPS with half tank of gas on glass water and just me and wife? What should my top end speed be for this boat. It seems like it doesnt go any faster from 6850rpms to 7500 rpms
I have a question about my 2000 bomb. challenger dual 75hp 14ft jet boat. I have been expirencing poblems with the left motor and thrusting, after reading doc's page we took apart the left pump assembly along with the cone and found out that the trust bearing and plastic was melted all inside along with no oil present. Can you tell me if i have to take apart the whole pump assembly to fix this problem? the drive shaft spins freely but there is small play at the end of the shaft near the prop. Is this a problem? Also, is the cone's main purpose used for holding grease in for the thrust bearing, or is it part of a pump for oil.
Apparently has been overlooked, I apologize if I am doing something wrong. recently joined premium membership and so far have recieved really no help. I know you are busy and respect that, and again I might be doing something wrong.
I am not sure how to send links of unanswered posts, so I will try this route. Appreciate your help seadoosnipe.
First of all I am not real mechanical (female) ha. But will attempt anything to get the boat running right.
After taking it out for the first time (plugs were changed) I notice that Right engines goes to 5000rpms and then it looses power, like down to 0. The left engine appears to be fine. They run both the same until about 4000rmps on right, then the engine stops. Brought it to a mechanic yesterday and he said he is not sure what the deal is. He Checked the connections, compression and all the things that he thought to do and everything seemed fine. says he may have to put it in the water on monday. I asked him about carburator and he said he wasn't sure and hates to run that expense up for if it is not neccessary. We are going to put it on the water one more time today and hope for a miracle (lol) Help appreciated. God bless
Hey snipe how you doing? Keeping busy I am sure. If you get a chance in the forums, there is a topic 1997 GTX in the General Discussions, if you get a chance to chime in I am sure you could answer pertty quickly. Thanks and take care, and happy riding.
I have a 1997 gtx,Scince i stored it last fall,i have lost and can no way find the lanyard cap and cable,Now what do i do,i have no idea,can someone please help me,is there a temporary solution,how can i find a new or used one,I also noticed that there is no vts switch to controll your tilt,what is up with that??
I would very much appreciate any help from anyone..
i have a 1996 gtx, with new 787 from sbt.new rotory valve and cover.rebuilt carbs. during breakin pto plug continues to foul.plug comes out saturated, and cold. when this happens, motor loads up, and will not take throttle.switched coils, dc-cdi box,plug wires, boots, with same results.during many test runs, pto cylinder stays cold, and plug is wet. adj. low speed jet to a 1/2 turn with same results!when i put new plugs in, motor fires right up,but minutes later the motor starts running differently, and will not take throttle.tore down carb several times, checking jets, seats pop-off pressure (32)before apparent plug fouling,motor response is great...........in all instances the motor fires right up, and will idol,however the rpms fluxuates,but stays running.........
Replaced the starter motor with a new WPS starter. That worked a time or two, then went back to not wanting to start hot or cold. Symptoms sounded like a low battery. Found a broken brush in the starter, Replaced that WPS starter motor with a new WPS starter motor. That fixed cold starts, but then did not want to start
hot. Even when cold, the engine was slow to crank fora half turn or so, then it would spin and light off. After a few rides, the boat would not start hot again. This time, the starter motor was replaced with an SBT high torque starter motor. Also, an additional ground cable was run from the ground tab on the starter directly to the battery. Previously, starter relay was replaced, as were all of the other battery cables, + & -. I am curious if these symptoms are common to a certain problem, or what could be causing it? Apparently when boat was new, it instantly started spinning rather quickly, no dragging for a half revolution or so.