Whats wrong with this ski?

Note: This site contains eBay affiliate links for which SeaDooForum.com may be compensated
Status
Not open for further replies.
Shane0524

Shane0524

Active Member
i have a 1996 GTX, i just rebuild carbs, replaced fuel lines, new wear ring, and refurbed impeller....... anyways it seems as if ever since i redid the carbs that it has been not running exactly right. I though it was too rich on the oil pump so i set that properly but now it still bogs on hard hole shot accelerations and will tend to bounce the revs when it sits for a little while and is started up again. Usually i cannot get it to stop bouncing revs until i shut it down and restart with the throttle at about half open, the engine revs way up and will then run fine but still bogs...... it has great top end and will hit 53 mph not problem but the bogging is weird. I was thinking it was running rich or lean, and thats why it would blow itself out and run ok, but now i'm thinking it is the rectifier after reading some other threads. The battery voltage when running gets very erratic and will easily hit 17 volts while running. The manual says it should never go over 15 volts so i'm pretty sure that my rectifier is bad, could the rectifier cause it to run like it is? or what else could be the issue.


https://youtu.be/4PILJ1TWlU8

https://youtu.be/OdKZPfhtgb4

Please watch these videos and tell me what you think


thanks in advance
 
Does it still have the grey tempo fuel lines? Did you clean the fuel selector? If the gas is turned to the on position for giggles try to turn it to reserve and see if anything changed. I had a gtx kinda act like that at 3/4 throttle and bog when taking off and it was a partially clogged fuel selector valve. Hope this helps
 
Check the voltage on the battery when running. You can also disconnect the red wire from the voltage regulator and see if the problem goes away.
 
LKGrider said:
Does it still have the grey tempo fuel lines? Did you clean the fuel selector? If the gas is turned to the on position for giggles try to turn it to reserve and see if anything changed. I had a gtx kinda act like that at 3/4 throttle and bog when taking off and it was a partially clogged fuel selector valve. Hope this helps
Click to expand...

it has new lines and i did clean the valve.... ill try reserve later
 
I feel 17 volts is too much, and that's going to affect the CDI ignition system in strange ways causing it to malfunction. I've noticed the Tympanium regulator rectifiers tend to get loose connections internally when they age and as a result they begin to malfunction when subjected to engine vibration.

As a quick and easy test to isolate the possibility of a regulator over-voltage issue temporarily disconnect the regulator red wire as already mentioned above.

I really wouldn't want to see more than 14.4v and preferably 13.8v is about perfect, IMO.
 
This is what you're looking for


464.jpg
 
i will try the red wire tomorrow,,,, more exactly what does that do?

also i saw this in the shop manual


direct copy

"If voltmeter reads over 15 volts, regulator is de- fective. Replace it."
 
Yes try what racer is talking about. Dont be scared of taking the front Ebox out ,All the wires match up color for color inside the connectors. Very simple test
 
so does disconnecting the red wire stop the flow of power to the battery? thus just running the machine off of the battery voltage and not over charging the system?
 
aside from the rectifier issue, what did you set the pop off at when you redid the carbs? where is your low speed needle set? since you say it hits top end fine (6800 rpm?) we can assume that the compression is good.
 
Im pretty sure that is rectifier. I saw your posts on the other forum as well.

Disconnect the red wire as racer said. Rectifier solved my biggest issue last year on my ski. The voltage test is just a tool to give you an idea rectifier may be an issue. Not a definite yes or no. As my voltage tested within specs before changing rectifier last year. Went in circles only to find out it was still bad even though it was charging within specs.



Rob
 
Shane0524 said:
here is what the voltage looked like when running...... rectifier maybe?

https://youtu.be/OdKZPfhtgb4
Click to expand...

with the voltage jumping up and down like that and then going up to 17v the regulator/rectifier is likely at least part of the issue. usually the rectifier going bad will limit upper rpms, not act like a rev limiter at lower rpms and then clear out, but i guess anything's possible, those things can be weird when they go kaput.
 
I will be testing it with the red wire disconnected Later today. I am definitely think I need to replace the rectifier regulator, especially when the shop manual says if voltage exceeds 15 v replace regulator. I think I had bad contact with the voltmeter and that's why it was jumping so much, but when it was on it was way to high.

I guess my real question is can the over voltage cause bogging and "Rev bouncing" as I call it?

This thread supports that it can

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?72348-16-5-V-while-running
 
Shane0524 said:
I will be testing it with the red wire disconnected Later today. I am definitely think I need to replace the rectifier regulator, especially when the shop manual says if voltage exceeds 15 v replace regulator. I think I had bad contact with the voltmeter and that's why it was jumping so much, but when it was on it was way to high.

I guess my real question is can the over voltage cause bogging and "Rev bouncing" as I call it?

This thread supports that it can

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?72348-16-5-V-while-running
Click to expand...

yes it can, usually it seems like the rev limiter cutting in and it won't let the rpms go any higher. its less common for it to "clear out" at higher rpms.
 
Yes, common seadoo problem. I keep extra rectifier in my tow rig at lake.

Rob


Shane0524 said:
I will be testing it with the red wire disconnected Later today. I am definitely think I need to replace the rectifier regulator, especially when the shop manual says if voltage exceeds 15 v replace regulator. I think I had bad contact with the voltmeter and that's why it was jumping so much, but when it was on it was way to high.

I guess my real question is can the over voltage cause bogging and "Rev bouncing" as I call it?

This thread supports that it can

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?72348-16-5-V-while-running
Click to expand...
 
Ok so this afternoon I disconnected the red wire. I fired the engine up cold from yesterday, it started right up and ran totally normal!?!?! I was happy because I thought that I had discovered the issue, battery voltage was just staying right around 12v nicely and it was running fine with no "bouncing". So I hooked the wire back up to see if I could get it to replicate the problem. I could not get it to do it again! Also the battery voltage was staying right about 14.2, which is fine. I let it sit for a while because it seemed to want to sit before it would "bounce" again, even after sitting it just ran totally fine with no bouncing. This was all on the trailer. So now it is as if the rectifier has fixed itself and the problem is gone????? Also when revving up the engine it stays at a good voltage. Can the rectifiers be intermittent when they are going out? Is that possible? I do remember this machine doing the "bouncing" before when I was working on the carbs and I thought it was because I had wrong pop-off, which I fixed. It didn't do it again once I had the carbs corrected, but now the bouncing came back, and is now seemingly gone again? Also, since last December 2014 when I put in a new battery, that original battery went dead and was deemed defective, but could it have been fried from the intermittent over voltage? So at this point I think its time for another water test.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Yes. They fail is a few different manners. They are a very common issue. I would simply replace it. I suggest an OEM as most aftermarket models are not built as well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Ok I'm probably going to order one today.... looking at this thread http://www.seadooforum.com/showthre...termittently&highlight=intermittent+rectifier I see they talk about it looking a little burnt.... the very last picture has the the little reddish bleed spots around the solder, mine is looking very similar, is that the burnt up/defective region?

I was thinking about ordering one from SBT, are they any good?

Or what about this from jetskiplus.com? http://www.jetskiplus.com/seadoo-ne...r-gtx-challenger-1800-gsx-xp-sp-spx-5341.html

Parkeryamaha.com also has the oem one for $76 which does not seem to bad, and they would be quick shipping to me in phoenix
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I had one do exactly that. Run great, then do what yours does, then run great again. Replacing it is the right move.
 
Change rectifier. It ran great with red wire disconnected. OEM rectifier are best. I have some but doubt it would reach you by weekend.


Rob
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

J
Intermittent bogging issue - bogging when turning??
Replies
15
Views
823
JustSomeGuy
J
V
1996 GSX overcharging
Replies
4
Views
318
vogs77
V
H
1996 Seadoo sp starts and dies
Replies
1
Views
336
Stevie96xp
Stevie96xp
B
SPX idle issue and oil from exhaust
Replies
8
Views
303
Grim
Grim
V
Acceleration issue/bogging 2000 GTX RFI
Replies
24
Views
1,063
Grast5150
Grast5150
Back
Top