Intermittent bogging issue - bogging when turning??

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JustSomeGuy

New Member
Hi everyone! I've got a bogging issue that has me at my wits end, and I'm hoping y'all can help. I inherited a pair of GTXs (94 and 95) that has been sitting for many years. I rebuilt the carbs and got them running. The 94 ran great for one trip on the river. The next time I took it out, bogging.

The problem:

The ski runs fine when it's first started, but after less than 5 min it bogs down and runs lumpy like it has a misfire. Even when the ski is running well, turning either direction makes is bog almost immediately, and it does not rev as high as it has in the past. Sometimes I can hold the throttle down and it will pick back up, but will bog if I turn again. It rarely stalls completely. If I shut it off for 60 seconds and turn it back on, it runs fine, then bogs again a little sooner. It runs well longer when it's cold. If I stay in a straight line, it will run better for longer, but will eventually bog.

Some info about the ski:

- I've rebuilt the carbs twice now, including checking pop off pressure, and tuned them to spec.
- New battery
- Replaced all the Grey fuel/vent lines
- Removed and cleaned fuel tank
- Bypassed the fuel selector that was causing fuel starving at WOT (I don't use it anyway)
- Oil injection was deleted when I got it, runs on 40:1 premix

I spent ages attacking this like it was a fueling issue i.e adjusting tune, checking rich/lean condition with choke, rebuilding carbs etc and nothing made a difference. After doing all that, I read on here about rectifier issues, so I tried the rectifier out of my 95 and the the bogging was still there, but it acted more like an electrical issue. It would sometimes surge, sometimes bog, but it would change rapidly and flip flop between surge and bog, as opposed to the gradual bog before. But it still always bogs when turning, which I can't understand. So I checked the voltage on the water and it never rose above 13.75v, and wouldn't drop when bogging like I hoped it would to indicate a bad rectifier. It stayed pretty even at 13.75v. I unplugged the red wire on my rectifier, and it seemed to run better, but still wasn't %100 and it killed my battery extremely fast.

I've got a new rectifier coming tomorrow, and I'll update this thread with any results, but I'm wondering if anyone has any ideas in the meantime. Why would it bog when turning?? What am I missing?

Apologies for the long post, thanks for taking the time to read it!
 
I’m pretty new at this myself, someone else will come on with some ideas but in the meantime what motor is that? When you rebuilt the carb did you use genuine Mikuni kit? Clean the pilot circuit well?Makes a big difference. Did you check the spark? I was thinking maybe it could be the coil? You say it runs perfect fit the first 5 minutes or so, also ever try opening the fuel tank cap after it starts bogging, maybe bad pressure relief valve?
 
I’m pretty new at this myself, someone else will come on with some ideas but in the meantime what motor is that? When you rebuilt the carb did you use genuine Mikuni kit? Clean the pilot circuit well?Makes a big difference. Did you check the spark? I was thinking maybe it could be the coil? You say it runs perfect fit the first 5 minutes or so, also ever try opening the fuel tank cap after it starts bogging, maybe bad pressure relief valve?
It's got a 657 in it 👍

I used a proper mikuni kit. I took them apart and blew out all the inlets/outlets/jets - any hole I could find, but I can't say I'm sure which one is the pilot circuit.

It seems to be sparking ok, I forgot to mention I got new plugs this year too.

I haven't checked the coil, I'll look into how to do that and update.

I hadn't considered a bad pressure relief valve! I'll run out and give that a try now.
 
For the pressure relief valve you will
have to wait till it’s bogging on the water, don’t run it out of the water for more than 20 seconds, 2 minutes if it’s on the garden hose. If you have a way of applying air pressure to the pressure relief valve with something like a mityvac or a homemade tester maybe what you used for the pop off test, it should open at around 4 psi I believe, only in 1 direction. If your on the water just open the gas cap and if you here a fish of air coming in then that’s a good possibility. The pilot jets are located on the metering side of the carb where the needle and seat are, just beneath the metering block. There’s a really good carb rebuild thread on here that Mikidymac made. Just do a search and find one of his posts, then view his profile, the carb rebuild thread is attached to his profile, probably a good idea to read through that and maybe you will notice something you missed. From all the reading I’ve done, a lot of times it’s carb related when these things don’t run right,
 
I will probably be reprimanded for suggesting this but you could also trying pressurizing the carb through the pulse nipple to 4 pounds and see if it holds that pressure but be sure to only apply 4 pounds so no damage occurs. This should tell you if the fuel pump diaphragm is good I believe. Like I said, I’m new at this. Again best to use a hand pump for this, not a compressor
 
For the pressure relief valve you will
have to wait till it’s bogging on the water, don’t run it out of the water for more than 20 seconds, 2 minutes if it’s on the garden hose. If you have a way of applying air pressure to the pressure relief valve with something like a mityvac or a homemade tester maybe what you used for the pop off test, it should open at around 4 psi I believe, only in 1 direction. If your on the water just open the gas cap and if you here a fish of air coming in then that’s a good possibility. The pilot jets are located on the metering side of the carb where the needle and seat are, just beneath the metering block. There’s a really good carb rebuild thread on here that Mikidymac made. Just do a search and find one of his posts, then view his profile, the carb rebuild thread is attached to his profile, probably a good idea to read through that and maybe you will notice something you missed. From all the reading I’ve done, a lot of times it’s carb related when these things don’t run right,
Took it out on the water and popped the gas cap when it bogged and there was no change. I'll have a look through the link you posted. Thank you!
 
9A9EA6EC-7001-49E1-A624-8C97604E0F6C.jpegJust thought I would post these pictures just in case you got a knock off carb rebuild kit, the genuine Mikuni ones have a red button
 
Putting pressure to the pulse nipple really won't tell you much as that part doesn't really go bad and you can blow out the mylar diaphragm with little pressure.
It is the round check valve discs that go bad and the pulse nipple is not connected to them.

What were your actual compression numbers?

Also check the big exhaust hose from the muffler to the outside of the hull, they can go bad from the inside and restrict exhaust flow.
 
Putting pressure to the pulse nipple really won't tell you much as that part doesn't really go bad and you can blow out the mylar diaphragm with little pressure.
It is the round check valve discs that go bad and the pulse nipple is not connected to them.

What were your actual compression numbers?

Also check the big exhaust hose from the muffler to the outside of the hull, they can go bad from the inside and restrict exhaust flow.
I can't remember the compression numbers off the top of my head, I checked them last year. They were over 100psi I just can't remember how much over 100 lol I'm at a river for a couple more days, but I'll get some numbers when I get back next week and post them.

I'll take a gander at the exhaust hose too, thanks for the reply 🙏
 
Over 100 doesn't really help.
150 psi is perfect compression and at 120 or less they are done and sometimes won't even start in the water.
 
Another update:

Getting 90psi on both cylinders. Looks like it has bigger problems.

Thanks for your input guys. Guess I'll be looking into a rebuild.
 
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