Porter brewer
Member
We did all of this and it was all good
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Bogging during acceleration
- Thread starter Porter brewer
- Start date
Porter brewer
Member
I also checked the spark again today and it looked fine so I’m thinking it was just it being in the sun
Venturian1
Active Member
Check ignition coil ground, and for 12V getting to the coil. You could always run a jumper wire from the battery negative post to the coil base.
Porter brewer
Member
I will try this and also we replaced all the parts in the carb with the old parts and it made the bogging problem worse
Venturian1
Active Member
Then I think its safe to assume the bogging problem is fuel related rather than electrical. I would start with the fuel baffle assembly. Check the screen on the bottom, and make sure the 4 hoses are on the correct nipples, and the check valves are working properly, no grey colored fuel hoses, all hose clamps are tight, vacuum test for leaks, also the fuel selector valve and the fuel filter's O-ring is not leaking. If all is good, then I would get back to the carb and before disassembly, first test the fuel pump check valves and pop-off pressure (and needle valve holding pressure). Check the jet sizes and needle valve size to be the right ones, and with the pilot jet out, blast out the hole with brake parts cleaner and observe that fuel comes out through the three tiny holes in the throat of the carb. Do the pop-off test with the diaphragm and cover off, then again with it on. If the lever that opens the needle valve is a little high, you won't be getting any pressure build up, (with the diaphragm and cover on) If its too low, the needle and seat won't open quick enough or far enough and the engine won't be getting enough fuel to run right. All of this is in the manual. New O-rings on the mixture screws are important too, and the pulse line from the crankcase needs to be tight. If you haven't checked the calibration of the oil injection pump, you should right after connecting the cables. there should be no bubbles in any oil injection hose. replace any stiff hose and any painted hoses so you can see. If none of this helps, I would be checking the rotary valve and its clearance. You do have good compression, no?
Porter brewer
Member
Yes it has good compression and the rotary valve is in great condition but we replaced the pop off valve springs a little while ago before the bogging started but after the bogging started we changed the springs to smaller ones that we had left over from the kit thinking we used the wrong ones and it made it way worse now it won’t get up to top speed at all after getting hot also how do you adjust the pop off pressure
Venturian1
Active Member
You're asking "How to?" You'll need a vac/pressure tester. I got mine from Harbor freight around $30 I think. Its a hand held pump with a 1/4" hose that you connect to the fuel inlet of each carb. ( one at a time), hold a finger or cap off the fuel outlet pipe and squeeze the lever on the pump while watching the gauge. If you've got two carbs, disconnect the short hose between the two carbs and cap off the outlet pipe on the first carb.
If you can't get and pressure to build up, either the needle and seat are leaking, or the lever with the spring under it needs to be bent away from the diaphragm. should be flush with the carb base. but before you do any bending, make sure the needle and seat are holding pressure by removing the diaphragm cover, and the diaphragm, and cover the needle and seat with gas or 2-stroke oil and squeeze the tester while watching for bubbles.
If bubbles come from around the seat, the O-ring needs to be replaced. If you see bubbles coming from the center, the needle is leaking and you'll have to replace both needle and seat. If the needle valve is holding, and the lever is not up too high, to get proper pop off pressure You'll have to try different springs. DO NOT stretch, or cut any spring. These harbor freight testers only go to 30 psi, that's where the numbers stop, but the needle will go past 30, so max is probably 35. so If the pop-off pressure is suppose to be above 35, a tire pump with some creative adaption will need to be fabricated. Good luck. also check the pulse and fuel pump check valves with the HF tester. The book says to just blow and suck to check the pump. You can also test the return line with this tester. Should have some restriction, but not be plugged.
If you can't get and pressure to build up, either the needle and seat are leaking, or the lever with the spring under it needs to be bent away from the diaphragm. should be flush with the carb base. but before you do any bending, make sure the needle and seat are holding pressure by removing the diaphragm cover, and the diaphragm, and cover the needle and seat with gas or 2-stroke oil and squeeze the tester while watching for bubbles.
If bubbles come from around the seat, the O-ring needs to be replaced. If you see bubbles coming from the center, the needle is leaking and you'll have to replace both needle and seat. If the needle valve is holding, and the lever is not up too high, to get proper pop off pressure You'll have to try different springs. DO NOT stretch, or cut any spring. These harbor freight testers only go to 30 psi, that's where the numbers stop, but the needle will go past 30, so max is probably 35. so If the pop-off pressure is suppose to be above 35, a tire pump with some creative adaption will need to be fabricated. Good luck. also check the pulse and fuel pump check valves with the HF tester. The book says to just blow and suck to check the pump. You can also test the return line with this tester. Should have some restriction, but not be plugged.
Porter brewer
Member
Alright I thought there was no way to ajust it but we put all the size springs in the carbs but none of them worked
If the levers have been bent, you may not get the right pop off even with the correct spring
Venturian1
Active Member
When you tried all the other springs, how did you test them? Pressuring up from the fuel inlet pipe or by putting the carbs back on and running it?
Porter brewer
Member
They might have gotten bent but idk how since there brand new
Did you get rid of the SBT carb rebuild kits yet?
You have any Ruffin go weather left where you are?
Porter brewer
Member
Yes I put in all the stock parts
Porter brewer
Member
What do you mean
Do you have any riding weather left?
Porter brewer
Member
Not right now but it may warm up in a few weeks for a lil longer but I’m running out
