Stripped Cylinder Head Bolt How to Extract?

[Jack Down Under]

Long story short have tried multiple drill pieces and extractor kits, After getting a quality extractor kit it seems to just eat away at the screw as im not able to drill down any further even with titanium and other metal drill pieces.
Any help greatly appreciated.
Have tried apply heat with a torch have tried making it into a flat head to fit a flat head screw driver piece all no luck and cannot find next to nothing online helping.
2012 Rxtx 260.
Cheers

 

[skiasylum]

If you are a buddy has access to a mig welder you can weld a nut to the broken bolt to extract it. Pretty common in the automotive industry for removing broken exhaust manifold bolts. The procedure is on You Tube .

 

[Jack Down Under]

If you are a buddy has access to a mig welder you can weld a nut to the broken bolt to extract it. Pretty common in the automotive industry for removing broken exhaust manifold bolts. The procedure is on You Tube .

Cheers mate was next thing i was thinking of trying

 

[BGS]

If high enough cut a groove with a cutoff wheel & use a lever.

 

[dcm0123]

Best option if sticking above the surface is cut a slot as mentioned by BGS.

If it is flush or above the surface welding a nut on is another option as mentioned.

If you are drilling into a hardened bolt, you need a harder drill bit such as a carbide drill.
If a hardened bolt, I am not sure an easy out will cut into it so you can remove it.

McMaster-Carr

If this broke off because the fastener threads are corroded, I am not sure either option will work. May have to go to a machine shop to be drilled out and install a Heli-coil insert.

 

[Venturian1]

I have twisted off the stainless steel head bolts, threaded into the cast aluminum cylinder before, and just as dcm stated, if the threads are stuck due to corrosion/oxidation of the aluminum, and the bolt twists off trying to loosen it, maybe a good machine shop can extract it, but no promises.
You cannot weld to stainless with a mig welder, you'll need TIG with an inert shielding gas, and if you do get a good weld, I would heat the aluminum quite hot before trying to extract the fish, and work it both ways, first turn it to the right. It won't be bottomed out in the threaded hole, the bolt was pulling down on the head when torqued, and in tension. Now that its sheared off, there should be no tension on the threads.... except for the oxidized aluminum, so turning it both ways just a tiny bit, and adding penetration oil ( after its cooled some) can't hurt. If you can get any movement at all, you will be sucessful with patients. I have not been sucessful at this. I finally got the right cutting angles sharpening on a 5/32" drill bit, drilled it medium - slow speed with lots of cutting oil to penetrate the stainless steel bolt, then my easy - out extractor broke off in it.
Next attempt, different engine, I got a hole bored into it, and threaded it with a tap, then screwed a stainless stud into it, and put a nut and washer on it. Did not tighten it to torque specs tho!

 

[bajaman123]

Go buy a carbide drill bit, it will eat right thru that bolt and any other perhaps broken-off cobalt/high-speed steel bits in there.

 

[wrench2ride]

I use x-tractalloy welding rods with an arc welder for removing stainless hardware, it works well when dealing with bolts broken down inside of threads, the flux keeps the welding arch from going into the sides of the threads, you can build the weld up in the hole until you get enough out the top to grab onto it with vise grips, you basically keep building the weld up and letting it cool and build again.