Icantswim
Active Member
Ordered, Do I need to RTV that as well?
951 to 995 Fullbore Rebuild!!!
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No rtv needed. Just a thin coat of grease so it slides in good, if that. The fresh rubber will squish in there and close up any gaps. That way you'll know to yank the plate if it still cavitates.
Icantswim
Active Member
Thanks, im not sure how that thing got all crimped up in the first place. Also would it be advisable to hit the outer perimeter of the support plate with RTV (I just found out it stands for Room Temperature Vulcanization) while I'm at it. I figured using the included nozzle I may be able to get a good bead slightly around the back, in addition to torquing the mounting bolts a little?
It's worth a try, might slow a leak down.
Icantswim
Active Member
hey so I replaced the seal, and it ran beautifully. However towards the end of my day I started to get some cavitation back again. Get home and check the new rubber seal and it started working it's way out again on the under side.
This may be a silly question but....am I supposed to have a neoprene seal seated in there against the plate? there isn't one, never has been that I can remember.Read through the thread boards and it mostly about the xp (787) nothing about 951. Sorry for the remedial questions. I was aware of these just didnt think they were for 155 pumps
The 155mm pumps with the rubber seal that fits around and in front of the pump started in 99 and have a groove that holds the seal that the 98 951 pumps don't have. Is this XPL a 98 buy chance? If not then it just takes that rubber seal. I guess is could use a little rtv but it's odd that a new seal pops out like that.
Icantswim
Active Member
Like the same rubber material that surrounds the end of the pump?
Icantswim
Active Member
Ok, now I'm really confused. Why are there two? I notice that the one on the bottom is slightly different, than the one on top. when I re-ordered mine I got the one on the bottom and put that one around the pump, as originally ( as recieved from PO) I only had the the one pictured on top around the pump. I figured maybe it was updated lol I'm assuming I'm all jacked up now!?!?! Do you have part#'s?
Does the one seat into the other?
Does the one seat into the other?
Icantswim
Active Member
I called the local dealer and they are stumped on this as well. Can anyone bring some clarity to this?
From another forum on this very issue Bill O'neal writes:
A 98 pump does not have the recessed edge to install the rubber seal onto, like a 99+ pump has.
If the pump support plate and ride shoe are well sealed in the 1998 model, you only need to place a geneorus bead of silicone onto the mating surface of the wear ring and pump support plate to get a good seal. Be sure to give it a day or two to cure before riding the boat.
When someone tells me his 1998 model is cavatating badly, I first look at the impellor for damage, then I look at the outside diameter of the plastic pump housing for cracks. 1998 pumps will crack the housings. That is why SD made 99 pump housing stronger than 1998 models. They break....
From another forum on this very issue Bill O'neal writes:
A 98 pump does not have the recessed edge to install the rubber seal onto, like a 99+ pump has.
If the pump support plate and ride shoe are well sealed in the 1998 model, you only need to place a geneorus bead of silicone onto the mating surface of the wear ring and pump support plate to get a good seal. Be sure to give it a day or two to cure before riding the boat.
When someone tells me his 1998 model is cavatating badly, I first look at the impellor for damage, then I look at the outside diameter of the plastic pump housing for cracks. 1998 pumps will crack the housings. That is why SD made 99 pump housing stronger than 1998 models. They break....
Yes I did in post 156. Your Bill O quote backs that up. 98 pumps do not have the recessed (I called it the groove) cut in the pumps to hold the seal that comes on 99 and later 155mm 2-stroke pumps.
You can order the ring (neoprene seal) for your ski or use a little rtv to seal the pump. The rtv option is harder to pull apart in the future and requires cleaning up each time though.
You can order the ring (neoprene seal) for your ski or use a little rtv to seal the pump. The rtv option is harder to pull apart in the future and requires cleaning up each time though.
The one I'm used to seeing on the 99 and up 951 powered skis is the top one in that pic. Maybe those are two of the same but I can't tell.
I am not sure but I think you are using too many seals. If the pump doesn’t have a groove you don’t use the seal that goes over the front of the pump.
The parts diagram only shows using RTV sealant on the connection but you could use Right Stuff just let it cure long enough.
The parts diagram only shows using RTV sealant on the connection but you could use Right Stuff just let it cure long enough.
Icantswim
Active Member
Man this ski runs beautifully now that I've sorted the cavitation out. One questions I have is, my digital Tach (tiny tach pro) is reading about 6.8k wot while hooked. Is it worth adjusting my high speed screws a touch to get closer to max rpm? Remember I have rebuilt everything so I "believe" the motor can handle it, and to be honest I dont spend much time up around that area in the rpm band but of course if it can handle it safely, should I, or leave it where it is?
Also where do most people leave there waterbox valve set? Mine is currently set all the way out, i've never touched it, and have been doing some research on it, and from what I think I know turning it down into the valve should give me a little more low end.
Also where do most people leave there waterbox valve set? Mine is currently set all the way out, i've never touched it, and have been doing some research on it, and from what I think I know turning it down into the valve should give me a little more low end.
Icantswim
Active Member
will have to look that up.
No they are not made or repaired anymore. I have lots of extra power supply harnesses and probes if someone needs them. The new one is not too bad though from reports I gotten. It's called KOSO and the screen is back lit so it turns red when you hit your preset temp.
Koso North America Dual EGT Meter with Fast-Response EGT Sensors BA006B61X | eBay make sure to get the right kind of sensors. You don't want the "weld on"
Koso North America Dual EGT Meter with Fast-Response EGT Sensors BA006B61X | eBay make sure to get the right kind of sensors. You don't want the "weld on"
The exhaust pipe looks good. What paint did you use?
Icantswim
Active Member
Thanks VHT red
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