Final Push to Get One 96 XP and One 95 XP ready - Some obstacles in the way

Note: This site contains eBay affiliate links for which SeaDooForum.com may be compensated
Status
Not open for further replies.

shattered00

Active Member
Hello all,

Two rebuilt engines (one 717 and one 787) are set to arrive this coming week. Most of our family convenes for Memorial Weekend at Possum Kingdom and I am trying to get these skis prepped and ready for the engines when they arrive. I have run into a couple more snags and, once again, am seeking advice from you guys (and gals I am sure). I am forever indebted to this forum as I would not have made it as far as I have with these things without your help. Here are my recent issues.

First, I have fixed the bottom of the 95 (bondo and fiberglass/resin). I gelcoated it three times (used a roller as I do not have a spray gun). It does not look pretty, but should hold up (crossing fingers). Here are some pictures of before and after. I worked into the darkness so forgive the crappy photos. The photos also make it look smoother than it really is and they didn't pick up the lights spots that look like sun damage even after the cutting compound, oxidation remover, and polish that Mikidymac and JSG use, but as long as it is waterproof I am content. The 96 looks about the same with slightly more "light" spots but there are no pics right now.
IMG_2138.JPG
IMG_2141.JPG
IMG_2144.JPG
IMG_2147.JPG

Onto the problems.

1) On the 96, the VTS and VTS boot were shot. There appeared to be some after manufacturer work done on things related to this as there was a large amount of the black sealant spread around where the VTS rod connects into the hull. I observed that there was a crack in the plastic "nut" that screws onto the VTS apparatus on the outside of the hull. I had already ordered a new VTS boot and connector rod (thx Minnetonka!), but did not notice this. The weird thing is, the part on this 96 is different than on the other 96. It is slightly shorter and doesn't have as many threads on it. Also, my plan was to just take the nut that wasn't cracked on the other 96 (which needs more work or so I thought and is waiting for the 3rd engine which is behind by a month or so) and put it on this 96. Well the nut won't screw on all the way because the threads appear to be damaged on the VTS apparatus. I have attached pics below because I am sure I am not making sense.

IMG_2157.JPG
IMG_2160.JPG
IMG_2162.JPG
IMG_2161.JPG

The above are pics from the 96 I am trying to prep for the incoming engine. Below are pics of the other 96 which has a slightly different rod and had no black sealant around the connection point so maybe it is the OEM one? Before I could take a full picture of it, a helper had pulled it through the hull so it is dangling. here I observed that something was cracked and some type of glue was used to "fix" it.
IMG_2158.JPG
IMG_2163.JPG
IMG_2164.JPG

TLDR: What part do I need to buy to replace this VTS tubing piece with the ridges on it that are stripped/missing?


2) The front of the 96 has damage where two rivets are missing and the hull is separating. Can I use ultra permatex black gasket maker to seal this up and what could I use to "screw" into the pre-existing rivet holes to ensure it stays together?
IMG_2159.JPG


3) The 95 has a broken ride plate screw. This is a two part question. I am going to try and drill out the screw with as large a diameter bit as possible and then use a tap to try and clean out the excess screw pieces in the threads. Would this be the best method? Second part: Once I begin putting the screws back in, the manual calls for loctite 242 and silicone to be placed on the screw. Do I put the loctite on the screw on the threads near the tip and the silicone near the threads on the head of the screw?
IMG_2143.JPG

4) The metal pieces that go parallel to the back of the jet ski across the bottom that meet up to the ride plate have a small gap. Some of the sealant that used to be there is missing. It is clear looking. Should I find a water proof silicone and fill in the gap or use the permatex ultra black stuff? The Clymer manual isn't clear( or I am not finding it).IMG_2154.JPG


I can only say that I have the deepest respect for those of you who are able to not only fix these up, but restore them in a way that they are as good if not better than showroom new. I have struggled with these three and at times I have become downright despondent in terms of my believing that they will ever see the water again. If it were not for reading through numerous threads and beholding the beauty that your restorations exemplify and the problems that were overcome, I would have likely either given up or scrounged up money and had someone else fix these (or bought newer ones with in a few years). While these will likely be the ugliest skis on the water, I will be proud of them if I can just get them up and running. Thank you as usual and if more information is needed, please let me know.
 
on the VTS some models use spacers(that plastic piece cracked on the inside of hull) and some do not.

The hull is not separating it was made that way and has tons of glue in between the hull and top deck. Just get the nose reattached and you'll be fine.

You don't have to silicone in between the ride plate and trim tabs. That gap will not slow you down or leak. If you want to your not hurting anything.
 
Shatter,

I too respect the guys like Matt, Adam, Minnetonka, etc. because I can not fathom the number of skis and parts these guys have fixed and restored and replaced. I visit this site almost daily, mostly to read and learn and see awesome builds. The advice on here is next to none. If you ask, they will answer!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top