thejuice48
Active Member
I also looked back through my pics of the ski before I removed the stickers, and found one which answered my questions of where on, off, and reserve are:
2001 RX Reboot Project – MPEM related question
- Thread starter thejuice48
- Start date
WhiskeyD
Well-Known Member
Eliminate all that bs and run a fuel line directly from the reserve pickup to the carb. Once you get the ski running you can add back the water separator and peacock if desired.
If the autoparts store wanted $10 a ft for fuel line then its probably pressure hose. You just need the regular that's like $2 ft locally here.
If the autoparts store wanted $10 a ft for fuel line then its probably pressure hose. You just need the regular that's like $2 ft locally here.
thejuice48
Active Member
Today I removed and cleaned the petcock flanges. The boogered up one was completely blocked couldn't blow through it at all. Reemed it with a small wire dremmel brush then dumped smacked it on some wood till all the crud pieces fell out, sprayed internals with some deep creep, and I could blow through all passages when in the correct positions.
Initially couldn't blow through reserve and when I blew through the on port a chunk of something hit me in the safety glasses.
After cleaning it all out, on off, can't blow through any port. On reserve can blow in reserve and out the out. Same with on. Cleaned it up a bit more with a wire wheel, sprayed it with some deep creep, reinstalled.
Initial state:
Reinstalled (yellow tie wrap reserve):
Initially couldn't blow through reserve and when I blew through the on port a chunk of something hit me in the safety glasses.
After cleaning it all out, on off, can't blow through any port. On reserve can blow in reserve and out the out. Same with on. Cleaned it up a bit more with a wire wheel, sprayed it with some deep creep, reinstalled.
Initial state:
Reinstalled (yellow tie wrap reserve):
Wow, where had that ski been? That looks like a good candidate for a new fuel selector valve
thejuice48
Active Member
My ski is over 22 years old with the original selector switch on salt water. So for 22 years, I would say it's in pretty good shape. However, it did sit for 7 years with an empty gas tank, and fuel turned off. After seeing the fuel flow routing, I would consider it a bad design. Why not place a fuel filter for both reserve and full on before the petcock, so the petcock isn't exposed to unfiltered fuel?
Afterall, the purpose of the petcock is to be able to properly shut off fuel delivery. It is recommended to run the ski, turn off the fuel and allow the ski to run until it dies to empty all fuel from lines. Which means the fuel is going to sit at the petcock shutoff.
But in the routing of fuel, this actually allows fuel to sit in lines from both reserve and full on at the petcock, (which get fed from the petcock to the fuel filter) which is what likely caused my blockage. In other words, there is no fuel filter before the petcock which is why it is a candidate for build up. Perhaps that should be on a yearly maintenance list. Remove / check / clean your petcock!
The valves on the petcock are very simple. 1 in to 1 out. If air comes out when blowing through one, all clear. Change selector switch to next one and try again. Off = none can be blown thru.
As I stated above, I did all that and verified the on/off for each selection works.
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thejuice48
Active Member
How are you supposed to use this to properly torque the last nut on the tuned pipe when this happens????
Bent somewhat back in vise.
Bent somewhat back in vise.
thejuice48
Active Member
BIG EXCITING UPDATE!!!
By 6/22 I had everything all back together but I was having a problem with the fuel filter bowl not filling and the ski not wanting to stay running. So I ended up ordering new fuel line for the main in and reserve to baffle. I was going to buy locally but the local auto parts store wanted $9.98 per foot, and I ended up getting 10 feet of hose on ebay for $15.00.
6/23 I removed and cleaned the petcock I previously mentioned above. Still, the fuel bowl would not stay full indicating a leak somewhere. This made me realize I had purchased the wrong size line. Auto parts store told me 3/8" and it was actually 8mm (5/16). Made correction to Amazon order.
6/24 Retacked down siphon holders, checked battery voltage, torqued trailer tire bolts, installed splash cover on tuned pipe, checked second battery. straightened tuned pipe tool back.
06/25 Started double-checking fuses, and baffle connections, and seeing what would be entailed if I did have to pull the fuel baffle. With the RX it looks like the baffle can be pulled up through the glove box instead of having to move the gas tank forward.
06/26 Fuel line arrived.
06/27 Installed fuel line. Started pressure testing and vaccum testing each line individually up to carbs, and still couldn't find the culprit. P & V carb flow from in through fuel return.
06/28
By 6/22 I had everything all back together but I was having a problem with the fuel filter bowl not filling and the ski not wanting to stay running. So I ended up ordering new fuel line for the main in and reserve to baffle. I was going to buy locally but the local auto parts store wanted $9.98 per foot, and I ended up getting 10 feet of hose on ebay for $15.00.
6/23 I removed and cleaned the petcock I previously mentioned above. Still, the fuel bowl would not stay full indicating a leak somewhere. This made me realize I had purchased the wrong size line. Auto parts store told me 3/8" and it was actually 8mm (5/16). Made correction to Amazon order.
6/24 Retacked down siphon holders, checked battery voltage, torqued trailer tire bolts, installed splash cover on tuned pipe, checked second battery. straightened tuned pipe tool back.
06/25 Started double-checking fuses, and baffle connections, and seeing what would be entailed if I did have to pull the fuel baffle. With the RX it looks like the baffle can be pulled up through the glove box instead of having to move the gas tank forward.
06/26 Fuel line arrived.
06/27 Installed fuel line. Started pressure testing and vaccum testing each line individually up to carbs, and still couldn't find the culprit. P & V carb flow from in through fuel return.
06/28
- Used manual to creaate visualize fuel flow diagram.
- Pressure & vaccuum tested vent line.
- Decided to double-check connections to carb although I could see no fuel leaking and it did not smell like gas.
- Found a fuel line on the PTO side which had previously been secured (prior to rebuild) with tie wraps loose enough to easily pull off.
- Went to hardware store for SS clamps. They didn't have small enough SS clamps, so I purchased double locking nylon ones.
- Installed those, and ski started right up fuel bowl remained full. But ski would die.
- Adjusted idle.
- Placed on hose, found water coming in which I thought was from main line
- Removed rear electrical box from mount to gain access to the area
- Went to AutoZone to purchase clamps
- Home depot for quick connect / on/off hose connectors
- Came back to check again where water coming from, not coming from hose. Hose not wet.
- Found a lose hose that attaches underneath the steering cable which must have come off when removing engine or replacing cable.
- Re-attached hose and verified no more water coming in.
- Vaccummed out water
- Reattached rear electrical box to mount
- Reattached air tubes & front air breather
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thejuice48
Active Member
Thank you but I cleaned the fuel selector about 2 weeks ago. I got all the crust out. It works just fine now. No blockages. Turns smoothly. Off = off Res = reserve and On = Regular on. So if it works, and it's clean, there is no gunk, why should I replace it just to replace it?
thejuice48
Active Member
Water test did not go so well today. I put the ski in the water and let sit for a few minutes floating over the trailer. Pulled seat checked for water leaks because of yesterdays issue with the hose. No water extra water coming into hull.
Started ski and backed away from trailer, pulled to side, tied off to a cleat and let run at idle for a few minutes holding it in place with "N.". Shut off pulled seat, still no excess water. Ran a bit rough but I did add extra oil to the gas for break-in. So then I decided to shut it off and go park my vehicle. Came back started it up, and putted around the boat ramp area just testing it. After a few of this, I started getting one long continuous beep. So I went the 5 feet back to the dock, shut it off, tied it up, looked inside, and now I had 4 inches of water in the hull. So I went and got my vehicle, put it in the trailer, pulled the plugs to let water drain, and brought it back home. I noticed water splashed on the rear vent cones, but that would be normal because the drive shaft was covered in water and was spinning while it was running.
Started ski and backed away from trailer, pulled to side, tied off to a cleat and let run at idle for a few minutes holding it in place with "N.". Shut off pulled seat, still no excess water. Ran a bit rough but I did add extra oil to the gas for break-in. So then I decided to shut it off and go park my vehicle. Came back started it up, and putted around the boat ramp area just testing it. After a few of this, I started getting one long continuous beep. So I went the 5 feet back to the dock, shut it off, tied it up, looked inside, and now I had 4 inches of water in the hull. So I went and got my vehicle, put it in the trailer, pulled the plugs to let water drain, and brought it back home. I noticed water splashed on the rear vent cones, but that would be normal because the drive shaft was covered in water and was spinning while it was running.
Because they typically don't "clean up" very well. The rubber inside deteriorates, comes apart and ends up in the carb fuel filters or start sucking air causing the engine to run lean. They are a 20 year old wear item. Don't let a $50 part cost you an engine.
thejuice48
Active Member
Just put it on a hose to fresh water flush, and I see water coming from near the same area as yesterday. Unfortunatley the sun is too blistering hot to get out there deal with until about 3PM
thejuice48
Active Member
A simple pressure / vaccuum test could verify if they were sucking air. Which I will now do to verify no sucking.
The out line from the petcock goes to the fuel filter, then down to the carbs. So any debris would be caught by the fuel filter and never reach the carbs.
fuel system diagram.jpg
Sounds good, you are correct, juts don't want to see something simple cause you grief.
thejuice48
Active Member
thejuice48
Active Member
Does anyone know what replaced the discontinued
NGK TB05EMA spark plug cap?
I just snipped back a 1/2 inch of plug wire and noticed they seat on the spark plugs kind of loose. I guess I could put one of those nylon double wraps around it, but maybe replacing it would be better than having to worry about something else.
I believe those caps have a resistance of 5000 Ohms.
LB05F is what I purchased to replace to replace TB05EMA on my snowmobile.
thejuice48
Active Member
Did another sea trial today. Yesterday I added more oil to the mixture because the plugs looked ehhh.
No more water coming from cooling lines, and no more continuous beep; however, when I tried to get up on plane the jetski did start bogging down and misfiring, which led me to look at the plug caps/cables. My wires were pretty recessed so I cut about an inch off each one and reattached the caps and secured with the double wratcheting nylon ties.
While at the boat ramp I had no fluids in the hull at all; however by the time I towed it home, I had fuel / oil mixture in the bilge. I noticed it because of the color and smell.
I suspect misfire & then fuel return line is loose again allowing fuel to seep out of it.
These are the mag (left) and PTO (right) plug readings after bog out today:
I was starting to feel confident it was good to go after putting around at the dock. I guess not.
No more water coming from cooling lines, and no more continuous beep; however, when I tried to get up on plane the jetski did start bogging down and misfiring, which led me to look at the plug caps/cables. My wires were pretty recessed so I cut about an inch off each one and reattached the caps and secured with the double wratcheting nylon ties.
While at the boat ramp I had no fluids in the hull at all; however by the time I towed it home, I had fuel / oil mixture in the bilge. I noticed it because of the color and smell.
I suspect misfire & then fuel return line is loose again allowing fuel to seep out of it.
These are the mag (left) and PTO (right) plug readings after bog out today:
I was starting to feel confident it was good to go after putting around at the dock. I guess not.
You can test those caps, Set yo it meter above 5000 Ohms and probe on each end. They don’t have to be exact but say 300 roughly each way
thejuice48
Active Member
I have an Ideal multimeter that automatically senses what mode. I have no idea if it's capable of placing it in that mode.
thejuice48
Active Member
Do they twist on the same way as the old ones?
I’m not familiar with the old ones but these twist on
thejuice48
Active Member
Found the culprit for the fuel leak. This barb apparently broke off of the carb.
Now I have to pull the damn carbs again!
Now I have to pull the damn carbs again!
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