2001 RX Reboot Project – MPEM related question

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Obviously in order to replace the wear ring, I have to remove the pump cone. So today I decided on an adventure to do that. Did it before so it wasn't a big deal. I've heard of water getting in the pump cone somehow. Not sure how it got in mine because I used the gasket maker, tried to turn the screw in to just flush but not to far so it would leak.

I was running Klotz fully synthetic in the jetpump. Opened it up today and found this:

1682790815360.png

1682790846261.png

1682790873542.png

I'm waiting for it to drain, then I'll clean it up with some simple green, blow it out with air, and see if anything within the cone is damaged as well as the thrust bearing and that other thing in there.
 
From your picure it looks to me like your missing (2) springs RIGHT HERE (white circles). Something has to close the choke butterflies. You don't have anything to do that. That may be why @mikidymac asked if the chokes were removed and primers installed.


Forum Carb MIssing Parts.png

As you can see by the bottom picture (again white circles) there is a spring and a lever on each carb's choke rod. Not saying those aren't on your carbs but I don't see them in your picture. Good Luck.

GTX 951 Carbs (1).JPG
 
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thejuice48 said:
Obviously in order to replace the wear ring, I have to remove the pump cone. So today I decided on an adventure to do that. Did it before so it wasn't a big deal. I've heard of water getting in the pump cone somehow. Not sure how it got in mine because I used the gasket maker, tried to turn the screw in to just flush but not to far so it would leak.

I was running Klotz fully synthetic in the jetpump. Opened it up today and found this:

View attachment 61924

I'm waiting for it to drain, then I'll clean it up with some simple green, blow it out with air, and see if anything within the cone is damaged as well as the thrust bearing and that other thing in there.
Click to expand...

Your pump seal may be leaking. They get stiff and worn over time. Be gentle removing it. I made a no complicated special tool but I'm a machinist by trade so I do that kinda stuff. :D Somebody sells a tool I'm sure. @mikidymac I think would know. :D


Jet Pump - Seal removed.JPG
 
etemplet said:
From your picure it looks to me like your missing (2) springs RIGHT HERE (white circles). Something has to close the choke butterflies. You don't have anything to do that. That may be why @mikidymac asked if the chokes were removed and primers installed.


View attachment 61925

As you can see by the bottom picture (again white circles) there is a spring and a lever on each carb's choke rod. Not saying those aren't on your carbs but I don't see them in your picture. Good Luck.

View attachment 61926
Click to expand...
 
etemplet said:
Your pump seal may be leaking. They get stiff and worn over time. Be gentle removing it. I made a no complicated special tool but I'm a machinist by trade so I do that kinda stuff. :D Somebody sells a tool I'm sure. @mikidymac I think would know. :D


View attachment 61927
Click to expand...
I don't think my pump seal is metal like yours. I have a rubber seal which had a metal spring around it. For some reason that rubber seal popped out and when I tried to put it back in the spring broke. In this picture though, it is still within the pump:

1682888203697.png

And no, the wear ring was not torn up like that till it started cracking around the edges. I put it in the freezer and then it really started cracking.

This seems to be the piece, but the one I have looks nothing like it:

1682888943127.png


1682889337720.png
 
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I can only see what I see of course but it looks like the OTHER half of your seal is still mounted in the pump housing. That rubber part you see attaches to the seal and yes the spring holds tension on the rubber which helps it seal on the shaft. YUP you need to replace the pump seal it is destroyed. You'll have to drive what's left of the seal out of the housing. You may need to rebuild the the pump if the bearings are damaged. I'd consider that for sure. Good Luck !
 
etemplet said:
I can only see what I see of course but it looks like the OTHER half of your seal is still mounted in the pump housing. That rubber part you see attaches to the seal and yes the spring holds tension on the rubber which helps it seal on the shaft. YUP you need to replace the pump seal it is destroyed. You'll have to drive what's left of the seal out of the housing. You may need to rebuild the the pump if the bearings are damaged. I'd consider that for sure. Good Luck !
Click to expand...
How does that metal piece just disappear and/or break?

Unfortunately from the picture I have of it new, I really can't tell if there was a piece of metal there, because indentations can look like raises when photographed from above. Here is what it looks like new, and I still can't find it on the parts diagram anywhere:

1682947913559.png


Here is a link to view the current condition 20230430_123224.jpg

I cleaned it up a bit yesterday. As far as I can tell the bearings seem fine and are all moving freely.

Cleaned up:


20230501_094443.jpg
 
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etemplet said:
From your picure it looks to me like your missing (2) springs RIGHT HERE (white circles). Something has to close the choke butterflies. You don't have anything to do that. That may be why @mikidymac asked if the chokes were removed and primers installed.


View attachment 61925

As you can see by the bottom picture (again white circles) there is a spring and a lever on each carb's choke rod. Not saying those aren't on your carbs but I don't see them in your picture. Good Luck.

View attachment 61926
Click to expand...
Thank you. Got those back on there but they do not seem to make any difference in choke play. I do not seem to ever remember mine springing back automatically.
 
I have now decided to replace the throttle cable because it's still not auto retracting and that would be bad, and rather than waste time trying to lubricate it, I can get a new one for $89.00 which should last a very long time. I am waiting seals for the pump / cone anyway.
 
I typically just make a few cuts with a hacksaw blade. Less chance of damaging the pump housing.
 
mikidymac said:
I typically just make a few cuts with a hacksaw blade. Less chance of damaging the pump housing.
Click to expand...
I tried a dremmel cutting roto thing and it wasn't budging. I was hesitant, but it worked. It was a quick not even 10 second heat application x 2. Once to get a screw driver with electric tape on the end in there, and second to apply heat while wiggling screw driver around.

Found a video of it on YouTube.
:)
 
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Cleaned up my Solas Concord today. Totally forgot it was in there. I'm leaving it. I do remember removing the Worx intake grate because it just sucked the ski into the water. I like to kind of surf on large waves and chop.
 
Why would my Prok flamearrestors be different on the inside? One has a metal honeycomb and the other does not. Does it make a difference which goes on where?
 
All i can say is you want the exact same resistance to flow on both cylinders, I would not want the air restriction to be different between them or one will be leaner.
 
I took my RX out to play for the first time this year. Man these skis are impressive. Hit 59 on the GPS today and that's bookin in my book. More speed than I need for sure.

2000RX Canal 2023 (2).JPG
 
etemplet said:
I took my RX out to play for the first time this year. Man these skis are impressive. Hit 59 on the GPS today and that's bookin in my book. More speed than I need for sure.

View attachment 62023
Click to expand...
Last week my friend was in town and he wanted to go riding so we took his two skis out. He has a Yamaha something or other with Riva Racing modifications. He works for WWE and apparently they're a sponsor or something so the ski was supposedly tricked out. The fastest I could get it (and I'm 150 lbs) was 62 (on the gauge). It's a heavy ski, and quite honestly, doesn't feel like ours do which are lightweight plus muscle. For some reason they also designed the reverse handle to be on the same side as throttle. Which, you can better increase control of reverse by adjusting throttle while you're using it. Stupid design. I mentioned this to him, and he said yeah, that's why it has a few dings up front.

So then we swapped skis. His other ski is a Seadoo GTI (four stroke as well) no supercharger not modified. I kicked it into sport mode, and the fastest that gauge said was 63. The change from a thumb throttle to trigger finger was a bit awkward. However, the "reverse" is more like a brake, and I'm pretty sure it doesn't have VTS which if you ride in the Ocean/Gulf, to me is essential.

BTW, I don't normally run WOT, I'm more of take a ride, go to an island, bbq, watch dolphins jump, surf the waves type of person.

I'm not sure I'm going to buff my ski out again. Seems to be cool to have flat colors on things now and the spots from water with all the minerals here drive me nuts.

Regardless, I will be taking a few days off of the project because I'm on my way to PR.
 
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I use the GPS for speed checks. Sometimes the speedometer on the ski is a little optimisic.
 
mikidymac said:
A lot optimistic, commonly referred to as the Dream-O-Meter.
Click to expand...
People not only believe them they add a couple mph. :D :D My wife told me her 97 GTX went 63 when we went out riding a couple weeks ago. She knows how fast her ski goes so I don't get it. I laughed at here\ and called BS. Then we rode further and raced again and she lauged and said... I can't see without my glasses it's 53. I said you ain't goin 53 either. LOL
 
I would proffer GPs isn't an exact measurement either. Regardless, a guage will likely say faster than slower. So for the Yamadog that was all tricked out, poo poo. The GTI, who knows. Speed is not your friend when you're taking a leisurely jaunt on the ocean.

So, back from PR, and now I've got another project I need to tackle. Damn AC capacitor is out so I'm waiting for that to arrive and cleaned the coils in the meantime. No attempt at vacation goes unpunished. So it's like 85 right now in my house & I have a sunburn where I blistered yesterday while on my way back although I was not in the sun since Monday. Go figure.

So in looking at the piece I was trying to find for the pump, it seems like it is a part of the entire seal -- which no one quite explained, they just said you have to replace the whole seal. The rubber and spring retainer can be seen in the picture from Walmart (for some reason Walmart sells seadoo parts now):

1683909383871.png
But it seems I could buy the seal, and remove / use the pieces I need without having to push out my seal. I figure I could freeze the rubber o-ring with spring attached, it will shrink, then install really quick -- like we do with wear rings.

This perhaps is why the rubber o-ring came off in the first place, I placed the entire pump in the freezer to attempt to get the wear ring out easier.
 
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