Ran fine, died and cannot get fuel. Rebuilt carb and still nothing

[mact18]

I have a 97 Seadoo GTI. It was running great and we were just cruising about 3/4 throttle and it just died. Would not start again. After getting it home, I realized it was not getting fuel. It will start if you dump fuel in the carb.

It had the original grey lines on so I replaced those. I paid attention to only replace one at a time so not to switch any of the lines. That helped get more fuel but only enough for it to run about 15 seconds at a time.

I then did a carb rebuild. Now it is not getting any gas. The fuel filter bowl does fill up, but takes some time if its empty. I even bypassed the fuel shut off switch in case that was it. The spring that came in my kit was longer then the original. Would this cause the issue of no fuel? I am going to pull the carb off and put the old spring back in.

I am baffled at what to do next if that does not work. I found it weird that something in the carb would shut it down so quick unless there was a major block.

 

[Coastiejoe]

The spring that came in my kit was longer then the original. Would this cause the issue of no fuel? I am going to pull the carb off and put the old spring back in.

I recall reading that the springs being different will cause issues.

No matter what order you did what in,,, if you ran the ski with grey tempo lines you pretty you will have to get into the carbs again.

Very common for the fuel valve to fail also. New is only 20 bucks-ish. The plastic filters in the carbs will need cleaned and check the needle/seats VERY well.

 

[Krispy]

I have a 97 Seadoo GTI. It was running great and we were just cruising about 3/4 throttle and it just died. Would not start again. After getting it home, I realized it was not getting fuel. It will start if you dump fuel in the carb.

It had the original grey lines on so I replaced those. I paid attention to only replace one at a time so not to switch any of the lines. That helped get more fuel but only enough for it to run about 15 seconds at a time.

I then did a carb rebuild. Now it is not getting any gas. The fuel filter bowl does fill up, but takes some time if its empty. I even bypassed the fuel shut off switch in case that was it. The spring that came in my kit was longer then the original. Would this cause the issue of no fuel? I am going to pull the carb off and put the old spring back in.

I am baffled at what to do next if that does not work. I found it weird that something in the carb would shut it down so quick unless there was a major block.

So the springs that came with your carb kit set the pop-off pressure for the carb. You shouldn't need to change the springs, but if you did it could cause hard starting. I would reccomend going back to the springs that came out of the carb if you don't have a pop-off tester.

Just to check a few things:

1. Do you have plenty of gas in the tank? Please don't think I am talking down to you by asking this, I pulled my carbs off twice after a rebuild checking everything and couldn't figure out what I had screwed up. My wife asked if I had gas in it. Oops.

If you bypassed the fuel selector switch what line did you tie into? The reserve or the "on", if you tied into the "on" line and the fuel isn't over the pickup you could get no fuel.

2. Check the pulse line coming to the carbs. it is the short little hose that is connected to the engine only a few inches long, ensure it is connected securely to the front carb and the engine crank case.

3. Does your ski have a little accelerator pump on the top that squirts gas into the top of the carbs?

What I do is turn the engine over with the spark plugs out and wires grounded to the ebox until fuel is squirting out of the accelerator pump. Once fuel is there I know my carbs are also primed and I can attempt to fire.

Good luck and report back!

-Chris

 

[mact18]

Thanks for the replies. No problem with the check fuel level suggestion, I am guilty of that in the past.

I now have fuel into the carb. I can see it wet with gas when I am trying to start it. It does not have the accelerator pump on top. Still will not start except for running for a few seconds and never comes to the usual idle RPMS.

I was not able to get to the high and low jets, as I stripped the one screw head. I was hoping it was just a diaphragm issue, so I put it back together. I am going to take the carb apart tomorrow and get the screw out some way or another to make sure the jets are clean and put the original spring back in.

Is there anything else, outside of the carb that could be causing the issue. Just strange to me that it ran great and was at 3/4 throttle and shut down. I would assume that with the internal filter in the carb would stop any large particles and that the needles would only clog while the ski is sitting and the fuel is gummed up. This is just my thoughts, I am sure I am probably wrong though. What are your thoughts?

 

[Krispy]

Ahh, I know the answer now.

I am betting that there is something clogging those jets. When you were riding, A piece of junk likely came loose and clogged a passage in the carb.

The filters can catch some of it, but it is really more of a build up, of fuel line material and gas.

As for the stripped carb screw, I have been there a time or two myself.

I have 2 tricks to avoiding this issue, and a Solution for when neither works.

1. Place a screw driver into the screw and then strike firmly with a hammer on the driver, I was told this by an old timer and it really works, best I can figure is that it breaks loose internal corrosion.

2. Use an impact screwdriver, this is also struck with a hammer, but twists as it pushes down. It is a lifesaver.

When those fail, use a screw extractor in a drill to back out the screws. If that doesn't work, use a cutting wheel on a dremel to make your stripped Phillips into a flat.

Let us know what you find when you get the carbs back apart.


Also, double check the assembly of your carbs, specifically the fuel pump on the front carb.


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[fokker]

Soak the screw in P.B. Blaster overnight. ..makes a big difference

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[mact18]

I managed to get the screw out. Cleaned out the jets, everything looked fine.

It is running, but will only run for a about a 1-5 mins then dies out. Also, the rpms never come up. Just runs rough. Still seems like it is not getting enough fuel. If it cannot be anything but Carb, then I think I am past my knowledge level and will have to take the carb somewhere.

Any thoughts on anything else I can check out?

 

[mact18]

Just to be sure I have the jet settings correct. I have it 1 3/4 for low and the high I didnt take out, due to the cap. I have it just all the way to the right as far as the cap will let it go. Does it need to be half way or tight to the right.

 

[ski-d00]

what's your compression? changed your plugs? back to basics if you think carb is correct.

 

[kicker]

Have you noticed any suction pressure when the gas cap is unscrewed? Possibly a bad check valve on the fuel tank.

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[mact18]

I need to check the compression yet. Dont have the tool, but will see if autozone has one on loan. Spark plugs were changed. I havnt checked spark recently, will do that. I have noticed that the front cylinder plug is covered in oil when I pull it and the rear cylinder looks like it is burning clean but is wet.

Can you explain the check valve better and how you test?

Have to wait until next weekend to give this all a try.

Thanks for the help everyone

 

[fokker]

Try to blow in check valve

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[Krispy]

I agree with all the above, the compression tester is something to have on hand. Not too expensive and it tells a lot of the health of an engine.

Keep us In the loop


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[kicker]

Can you explain the check valve better and how you test?

Have to wait until next weekend to give this all a try.

Thanks for the help everyone

You fuel tank has a check valve and a pressure relief valve. check valve is to allow air in as the fuel level goes down in the tank, relief valve is to allow air out in case there is some pressure built up in the tank. To much pressure will flood the motor, to much vacuum from the check valve not working will make it hard for the carbs to draw in fuel. Both valves T into the one vent line on the fuel baffle.

 

[kicker]

Just to be sure I have the jet settings correct. I have it 1 3/4 for low and the high I didnt take out, due to the cap. I have it just all the way to the right as far as the cap will let it go. Does it need to be half way or tight to the right.

Your correct with your settings, the HS should be at 0, so turn clockwise all the way.

I think you have the wrong spring in there, you said it was longer, what color was it? Silver, black, gold. Your ski needs an 80g spring which is the black one, the 65 gram spring is the shiny silver one and it is longer then the 80g spring.

Either way, I would put the original one back in and start there. If the spring is to weak the needle valve will not seal properly and leak fuel, which will flood the motor and make it run like crap. Might explain why you have wet plugs.

As skidoo mentioned, comp test, plugs etc, get that stuff done first and then you can move onto the next step.

 

[mact18]

Thanks

I will work on that next weekend and update.

The second time I had the carb apart, I put the original spring back in it.

 

[alterry]

Thanks

Be careful with loaner compression tools, they get beat up pretty badly. I tried four different ones from O'Reilly and Autozone and got four different readings, from mid thirties to the one forties. Well worth it to buy one new, they are not that expensive.

 

[mact18]

I will look into buying a comp tester tomorrow. For the check valves, if air passes through then they are good? I will blow into the one from the outside and the other I will disconnect the hose and blow air out.

I plan on starting with comp test, then new spark plugs, check valves, then going through my entire fuel system again.

I have not had any pressure build up when I take my fuel cap off to answer the earlier question.

 

[blairwill4]

Sorry to hijack this thread but quick question [MENTION=59978]kicker[/MENTION] where is this valve because im pretty certain mine is bad i have to have the cap off for my ski to want to cooperate all of a sudden today.

Have you noticed any suction pressure when the gas cap is unscrewed? Possibly a bad check valve on the fuel tank.

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[mact18]

Blairwill4 From what I saw after researching the valves. There is a fuel line that comes out of your tank and has a t - connection. From there the two lines split and at the end going out the hull is each valve. They both are seen from the outside of the hull just underneath the rub rail.

 

[kicker]

Blairwill4 From what I saw after researching the valves. There is a fuel line that comes out of your tank and has a t - connection. From there the two lines split and at the end going out the hull is each valve. They both are seen from the outside of the hull just underneath the rub rail.

:agree:
The T connection goes on the Vent nipple of the fuel baffle. This is for an X4 hull, the GS has the check valve inside the hull by the steering mechanism.

 

[AdamXP800]

[MENTION=63503]blairwill4[/MENTION]. What was your ski doing? Like what symptoms was it having before you opened the gas cap up. I'm trying to figure out if I have the same issue

 

[mact18]

Ok I bought a comp tester and I am at 130 psi for each cylinder. Also put in new spark plugs. Nothing so far.

When I replaced the fuel lines, I put in 1/4 inch lines. I want to make sure that is the correct size. I am going to check all my lines and check valves now.

 

[mact18]

check valves are good. I am able to get it to run now and stay running. The rpms still are not coming up and it dies out as soon as you hit the gas. I took the pulse line off of the carb and noticed that the nipple had oil in it. Is this normal? How can I make sure that nothing is in the pulse line going into crankcase. I read up on the description of how to do it, but it is not clear to me.

 

[mact18]

Also if my pulse line is too short or too long could it pinch slightly and cause the fuel not to flow at the correct rate. I dont think this is an issue, but my line is probably a 1/4 inch shorter then I would like and causes a bend. I had it longer to start, but that also seemed like it would close off the line a little.