just rebuilt my 1st top end 96 spx your thoughts

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Jasonxo0ox

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Did my 1st rebuild it was fun and a great learning experience. Jugs and pistons are not perfect but they will do for now. Is there a proper procedure for breaking in the new rings? And gaskets I did a light water test on the hose everything seems fine. Next I'm thinking of changing the oil to synthetic? But I have a full tank of not sythentic can I mix? Which runs better that's all.
 
Did my 1st rebuild it was fun and a great learning experience. Jugs and pistons are not perfect but they will do for now. Is there a proper procedure for breaking in the new rings? And gaskets I did a light water test on the hose everything seems fine. Next I'm thinking of changing the oil to synthetic? But I have a full tank of not sythentic can I mix? Which runs better that's all.

by rebuild you mean you just changed the rings? was there any deep grooves in your cylinders? people have a little difference on break in procedures, some say don't hold wide open for 20+ hours or a few tanks of gas, some people like to gradually hold it wide open from a cruise for a SHORT couple seconds and get back off of it, run a little bit of oil in your gastank around 100/1 I believe, and mixing synthetics with mineral oil is a BIG nono, if you wish to switch to synthetic the best way is to drain all old oil out and then fill with synthetic, someone please correct if im off on anything, good luck with it
matt
 
Put 50:1 premix in the fuel tank, assuming that the oil injection is still hooked up. Each time you go out be sure to let it warm up for 3-4 minutes before you put up on plane. First 1/4 tank, keep it under 1/3 throttle, vary your speed up and down. Next 1/4 tank half throttle, vary speeds, Next 1/4 tank 3/4 throttle, the last 1/4 can go wide open but only for short stints, 10-15 seconds. After that mash the throttle and have at it.

I don't like to run a break in for more the 15 min at a time then a 5 min cool down for the first half tank.
 
by rebuild you mean you just changed the rings? was there any deep grooves in your cylinders? people have a little difference on break in procedures, some say don't hold wide open for 20+ hours or a few tanks of gas, some people like to gradually hold it wide open from a cruise for a SHORT couple seconds and get back off of it, run a little bit of oil in your gastank around 100/1 I believe, and mixing synthetics with mineral oil is a BIG nono, if you wish to switch to synthetic the best way is to drain all old oil out and then fill with synthetic, someone please correct if im off on anything, good luck with it
matt

Yes just the rings and gaskets. There was one good groove just deep enough to catch my nail. I have to get the mixture right before I even start the riding thanks for that. I running some Wal-Mart quick silver API-TC and I'm planning on putting the same brand and type just synthetic. But I'm thinking replacing the old would be for the best thanks.
 
Put 50:1 premix in the fuel tank, assuming that the oil injection is still hooked up. Each time you go out be sure to let it warm up for 3-4 minutes before you put up on plane. First 1/4 tank, keep it under 1/3 throttle, vary your speed up and down. Next 1/4 tank half throttle, vary speeds, Next 1/4 tank 3/4 throttle, the last 1/4 can go wide open but only for short stints, 10-15 seconds. After that mash the throttle and have at it.

I don't like to run a break in for more the 15 min at a time then a 5 min cool down for the first half tank.

Thats really helpful i appreciate it.
 
720 motors don't need synthetic I wouldn't change it unless you rebuild the entire motor or change the fuel and oil lines and filters. if you machine is running on grey tempo lines I would make changing them and cleaning the carbs priority over the oil. make sure to do some plug checking make sure your not running lean and destroy your new rings
 
What about the oil?

Not sure I understand the question. If you have Quicksilver API-TC in your tank you can use that. I wouldnt empty the oil tank, then you can add a 50.1 premix in the fuel tank.

If by mixture, you mean lining up the oil injection pump with the carbs, you need to align the notch on the lever with the notch on the pump.

 
Thanks for this info. My ski broke and I put it in to get fixed and they kindly blew the engine for me. So I like you have had to do a rebuild. Never even thought about running it in till I read this.

When user Machin0 above says "make sure to do some plug checking make sure your not running lean and destroy your new rings" what exactly does he mean?

Does it mean using less oil than you are anticipating? what are you looking for on the plugs?

Thanks
rhonus
 
Thanks for this info. My ski broke and I put it in to get fixed and they kindly blew the engine for me. So I like you have had to do a rebuild. Never even thought about running it in till I read this.

When user Machin0 above says "make sure to do some plug checking make sure your not running lean and destroy your new rings" what exactly does he mean?

Does it mean using less oil than you are anticipating? what are you looking for on the plugs?

Thanks
rhonus

After running it for a bit, it is good to check the plugs for color, they should be a dark brown (almost black with dbl oil for break in). If the plugs are a light brown or greyish color it is probably running on the lean side.

After the tank of premix is done it is a good idea to put fresh plugs in and look at them a few times while running through the second tank. It will be a better indicator of what the motor is doing cause there will be no premix in the tank.
 
The quicksilver oil is API-TC and if it's the PWC oil then it is a synthetic blend. So it should be ok to mix with full synthetic. Especially if it's the same quicksilver brand.


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720 motors don't need synthetic I wouldn't change it unless you rebuild the entire motor or change the fuel and oil lines and filters. if you machine is running on grey tempo lines I would make changing them and cleaning the carbs priority over the oil. make sure to do some plug checking make sure your not running lean and destroy your new rings

Replaced all the lines rebuilt carbs all the must do's. I did the replacement of rings and gaskets because my compression was low. Im hoping I have a shitty tester.
 
Not sure I understand the question. If you have Quicksilver API-TC in your tank you can use that. I wouldnt empty the oil tank, then you can add a 50.1 premix in the fuel tank.

If by mixture, you mean lining up the oil injection pump with the carbs, you need to align the notch on the lever with the notch on the pump.



I gotcha i do have to add the oil to the tank but the oil i put in last year i am out of and i cant find the exact one thats why im asking and thank you I got all that lined up was fun.
 
The quicksilver oil is API-TC and if it's the PWC oil then it is a synthetic blend. So it should be ok to mix with full synthetic. Especially if it's the same quicksilver brand.


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Perfect thank you I know I may not need the full synthetic. But the oil I do have in the tank I can't find so I figured the same brand couldn't be horrible. Now I have to get the oil in the fuel and make sure I'm not running to lean.
 
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