1998 GTS 717 rich and lean cylinders?

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David Shore

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This is on the long side.
Had so many questions through this process but didn’t post, just kept reading.
Bought a 2000 challenger 2-717’s, single carbs.
Compression was low in one engine 120, 35. Good in the other 134,135, decided to rebuild both anyway for the “experience” Started with rebuilding both carbs with the “right stuff.”
One had needle valve 1.5 with silver spring and lever, pop off was 31psi
Other one had silver spring and lever, pop off was (42)
Ok now I need a top end for the low compression motor, looked for bran new top end, got distracted, bought a 1998 GTS in pieces, single carb with trailer and all bran new 717 top end not assembled, crank and bearings were shot.
(Guy was moving to east coast, selling all his projects) came with an extra 657x in parts.
Ok got sidetracked, GTS was to nice to part out, challenger project paused, begin GTS.
Used the new top end (WSM) on the low compression challenger bottom with the rebuilt matching single carb with pop off at 31 and dropped it in the GTS, emptied fuel tank, oil tank, new battery, replaced fuel lines, cleaned fuel selector, was in great shape, replaced water separator, fuel filter, added no alcohol gas with oil cause pistons were just born, filled oil with 2 stroke BRP, new battery. Carb low 1 1/2 turns out, Carb high zero, primed oil and fuel lines by covering intake with bag, no air in lines, last few inches of inlet fuel line I used a clear line so I could verify.
Started right up, pinched inlet, turned on water, set the idle around 2500 rpms. No hesitation in throttle. Compression 135 in both holes.
For a week I started this thing on the trailer with no issues, it started and ran perfect. (Out of the water;)
Now for the water. . .
Started right up, adjust the idle screw down so it wouldn’t take off and played with the low until smooth idle (ended up being 1 1/4 out) and the spark plugs were not wet and not dry, dark brown after putting around on and off shore staying under 1/3 throttle. It was tough, wanted to WOT so bad, she wanted me to, but daddy didn’t want to push her to hard.
Second day on the water it was time.
Starts perfect, idles perfect, warmed her up for 10-15 min under 1/3 and then WOT. Got full power out of the hole, up to plain, then full speed for 4-5 seconds, then chokes out, dies.
Did this for 20-30 minutes.
Back to the forums.
Couldn’t find anything specific so I decided to go through the fuel system.
Flushed all lines, pulled carb.
Found the fuel separator oring was missing and the filter was a little con-caved. I’m assuming the ring wasn’t seated properly and it was trying to pull fuel out of a clogged line.
Did not find remnants of ring anywhere. Moved to re-rebuilding the carb. Everything looked good, went to reassemble and remembered I forgot to check the little 6/32 lines.
Carb cleaner through 5” one, check,
Carb cleaner through 3” one. . . wait, nope, it’s clogged. It had a two rebuild engine ago broken needle valve stuck in there! I’m assuming that’s why the last two rebuilds ended up continuing to overheat and melt rings.
Took it back out next day.
I did it! Starts, idles, runs through whole throttle flawlessly! I’m almost to my question but I wanted to thank everyone on this forum for all your posts, the time you put into them and your continued efforts in explained the same issues over and over and over.
If I hear someone not thinking that they didn’t need or hear about not needing to change out “the gray fuel lines” one more time!!!! Lol
Seriously though, I didn’t know anything about engines 3 months ago, nothing. And here I am riding this thing in the Puget Sound freezing having the time of my life in the winter that was just 3 months ago a pile of parts, wires, dirty fuel and oil hoses that I put together with the help from you guys. Truly thankful.

My question finally! Front cylinder burns leanish, back (PTO) cylinder runs on the rich side.
Can I fix that?
 
The only thing I would suggest is change out that fuel selector, cleaning them is asking for a lean air leak.

Also now that you have it going good try setting the carb screws back to the book settings and see if that fixes the rich/lean cylinders.
 
I would go with the settings that are a little richer to be safe.
Alos your engine looks great! Be sure not to run it without the plastic air box as that can make it really lean.
 
Sounds good, again thank you for the reply and all your reply’s over the years.
So much professional experience and valuable information.
Making up for the stuff my dad didn’t teach me.
Every bolt I tightened was theropy.
 
Sounds good, again thank you for the reply and all your reply’s over the years.
So much professional experience and valuable information.
Making up for the stuff my dad didn’t teach me.
Every bolt I tightened was theropy.
Glad to help when I can. Just want everyone to enjoy their skis as much as I do.
 
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