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is it safe to go out in the cold

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murjiim

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So i was wondering if the water is say 0 degree C...is it safe to run these 2 strokes in that cold water?
i am tempted to try it just on the trailer of course because i want to get this thing running for the first time.
problem is i dont have a water outlet as i live in a appartment...
 
Let it warm up a little before you pin it.. Also don't let your ski sit in the cold after and turn into a ice cube.. You don't want to blow a seal or crack a cylinder..
 
yep get it nice and warm and avoid any wide open runs till its really warm. If you planned on really riding, restricting the water flow is a good idea.
 
yep get it nice and warm and avoid any wide open runs till its really warm. If you planned on really riding, restricting the water flow is a good idea.

well new rebuilt engine here so cant rip it anyway...i am taking my time and breaking her in nice...thats the plan.

how do you restrict water flow?
say i run it in cold water...is it sufficient to just run the ski for 30sec out of the water or should i do the whole winterize thing?
 
It's most likely safer to run without a hose on the ski for 30 seconds, let it cool for 20 min, then another 30 or so vs. 0 degree water. these engines (at least the 951, I don't know about yours) do not have thermostats like a car... thats why in the spring they feel a lot more powerful... the whole engine it a lot cooler than normal... but 0 degree water is a LOT colder than what they were designed for. not to mention risking your own azz in the water... I'd find a friend w/a hose you can borrow...
 
That's what I was thinkin' ... But it's no different than some of the open water sleddin' (skidoos) I've seen ...

Have fun .. be safe!


Well i guess i will wait until the weather is above 10degreeC for a good week then go to the lake and give it a run as it sits on the trailer strapped down...water will be probably around 5-6C at that point.
This lake here is not frozen at all this year so its hovering around 0 right now for sure
 
Re-do your winterization steps after you run it on the hose or in the lake. Sounds like air temps are hovering around or below freezing, its not worth cracking a cylinder or messing up any coolant passages. When I rebuilt my GSX, I was anxious to try it in the spring. It kept diving back below freezing around the time I took it to the lake, so I made sure to blow it out and run antifreeze through the coolant lines again. Its a pain, but cheap insurance in my opinion.

-Brandon
 
Re-do your winterization steps after you run it on the hose or in the lake. Sounds like air temps are hovering around or below freezing, its not worth cracking a cylinder or messing up any coolant passages. When I rebuilt my GSX, I was anxious to try it in the spring. It kept diving back below freezing around the time I took it to the lake, so I made sure to blow it out and run antifreeze through the coolant lines again. Its a pain, but cheap insurance in my opinion.

-Brandon

Well i dont have a hose to be able to run antifreeze through the whole system so would just have to pour it down the hoses and stuff.
i will wait untill its above 10C at least for a week then go take it out.
 
Well i dont have a hose to be able to run antifreeze through the whole system so would just have to pour it down the hoses and stuff.
i will wait untill its above 10C at least for a week then go take it out.

Just unhook one of the hoses going out or coming from the pump, and stick a funnel on it and run some through until it flows out. No need for a hose. It's all I do.
 
I rode in Mobile bay last week. Water temps is in the upper 50's, lower 60's. I have the 787cc powered GTX. Though, it is prudent to make sure your motor is warm, you do have a pre-heater (your exhaust) that warms your water that cools your jugs, before entering the block. Warm it up a little, then have a great time. The cooling system is set up with calibrated fittings, that works like a thermostat in a way, by allowing the water to flow at a restricted rate. The water has time to warm up before leaving the motor.

If you think about the guys up north, running their sleds in the snow, in temps under 30*F, they have no temperature related problems. These older models use the Rotax 2 stroke (Ski-Doo) motor, though it's air-cooled, not water.

Because cold air is dense, heavier than warm air, you might find the need to use your choke at half open till the motor is warm enough to run on it's own. THen again, you might not. Last week, I had to run my choke half way our for about one minute, till the motor started to heat up. Go out and have fun, get some time on your new rebuild. Make sure you use more oil for the break-in. Now is more important than summer, because of the air flow.
 
thats mechanic slang for cylinders, lol, pistons is bullits, or slugs -- performance ones are domes, when you lose compression in a cylinder, -- thats a dead hole, or low hole, lol when u buttoning up an overhaul, u puttin the head on -- etc etc
 
Griz,

I'm real proud of you, this conversation could have gone a whole different direction, but you kept it on track. Congratulations.

Lou
 
Griz,

I'm real proud of you, this conversation could have gone a whole different direction, but you kept it on track. Congratulations.

Lou

haha i know exactly what you are talking about.. LMAO.

ok so water issue is ok .. what about the oil temp. i mean it its is kinda cold say around 6-7C then the oil is also cold...so can this cause any issues like maybe not cause proper seals on a new engine?
 
OK, It's Party Pooper time.

I know it's a lot warmer everywhere than normal for March. It may hit 80 near Detroit on Tuesday the 20th.

Lots of people have put their boats/skis in the water 1-2 months ahead of the norm, at least in the Northern states.

I'm wondering "how much panic" there will be when later in March the temps dip down to the low 20's at night and maybe during the day for several days in a row?
Everyone will scramble to "RE-WINTERIZE" in a hurry.

I bet this forum will be a busy bee then.

Some tips - Some people put a small light bulb in the engine compartment to keep things warm.....but gas and spark don't mix very well sometimes. Others may start their motors late at night to warm them up, this will work depending on how cold the temps get during the night. Some others will pull it into a heated garage.

What's your plan to keep it from freezing in a emergency "freeze zone temps"? Me - Hold off until the freeze warning is gone for the year.
 
we always just kept a drop light in the engine compartment, only way that would spark would be if something broke the bulb. the one year we had someone come out and winterize the boat, they broke off the plastic drain plugs in the manifolds and didn't bother telling anyone, since "hey, they still drained, job done" texas isn't exactly the great white north though, but we did have a few cold spells that had an inch or two of ice on the water.
 
A small "Heating pad" (for a bad back) works well too, and it's safer than a light bulb since it regulates it's own temp, and it won't melt wires if something touches it.


Just to add a few comments.

1) You can "Cold" seize a 2-stroke. Basically, the hot gasses get past the rings, and displace the oil, and will stick the piston. (more common in a dirt bike since we have to idle out past a no wake zone)

2) you can crack a jug from thermal shock if not careful.

3) I wouldn't put a fresh engine in the water until it was warm enough to actually ride in. Because....

4) I don't agree with the "Heat Cycle" method. If you want to properly set the rings.... let the engine get warm, and open the throttle!! Get to max speed, and then let off to a full stop. Repeat a couple times... and then just ride normally so the piston skirts have a chance to polish.


People may disagree... but if you have me build a bike engine... chances are... its seen a 100 mph blast (depending on the bike) before you pick it up from my shop.
 
well my ski is running really good...no complains. i have not gone over 90% throttle and at about 1/4 tank left in there.
i have clocked it at 70km/hr not at full throttle yesterday and it was 17C out there.
if my feet get wet, the water is ice cold and you can feel the splashes. i was turning and hit some splashed on my face and felt like snow on my face.
 
phew, well hope your ski runs great for ya. I personally dont think i could take the risk running in still very cold (toronto?) water on a fresh rebuild. I also thought that you werent supposed to go above 3/4 throttle when breaking them in? thats what i was told by Full Bore, but everyone is different i guess
 
02 Operators Manual, strait from SEA-DOO: (The word of the day is "Scrupulously")

BREAK-IN PERIOD
CAUTION: Scrupulously follow the
instructions of this section. Failure
to do so may reduce the engine’s life
and/or performance.
With SEA-DOO watercraft powered
by Rotax® engines, a break-in period of
10 hours is required before continuous
operation at full throttle.
All Models except DI Models
To achieve a good break-in, throttle lever
should not be depressed more than
3/4, however, brief acceleration and
speed variations contribute to a good
break-in.
DI Models
To achieve a good break-in, vary the
engine speed every few minutes with
brief wide open throttle accelerations
of up to 15 seconds.
All Models
CAUTION: Continued wide open
throttle runs and prolonged cruising
without speed variations should be
avoided, this can cause engine damage
during the break-in period.
All Models except DI Models
To assure additional protection during
the initial engine break-in, it is recommended
to add 1 L of the same oil as
in the injection oil reservoir in the fuel
tank for the first full fuel tank filling
only.
To add injection oil in the fuel tank, proceed
as follows:
Fill fuel tank with approximately 15 liters
(4 gal) of gasoline; then, add the
injection oil in the fuel.
Fill up fuel tank with gasoline. Do not
overfill.
NOTE: It is important to proceed in this
order to allow a proper mixing of the oil
in the gasoline. If oil is added first in an
empty fuel tank, fuel lines will be filled
up with injection oil leading in a no start
condition of the engine.
CAUTION: Remove and clean spark
plugs after engine break-in.
DI Models
NOTE: Adding injection oil in the fuel
tank for the break-in has no noticeable
effects on a DI engine.
All Models
10-Hour Inspection
It is highly recommended that after the
first 10 hours of operation, the watercraft
be checked by an authorized
SEA-DOO dealer. This inspection will
also provide the opportunity to discuss
the unanswered questions you may
have encountered during the first hours
of operation.
The 10-hour inspection is at the
 
The factory break-in is a bunch of HOOIE !!

Even they know that you need to run full throttle, and full decell to properly set the rings. See below.


.......
To achieve a good break-in, throttle lever
should not be depressed more than
3/4, however, brief acceleration and
speed variations contribute to a good
break-in
.



AND



.......
To achieve a good break-in, vary the
engine speed every few minutes with
brief wide open throttle accelerations
of up to 15 seconds.


The way they want you to break in the engine is "Safe" but by no means does it produce the best power.

When I raced SCORE in SoCal... I would put a fresh engine in my bike, and it would race a season without a complaint, OR even a so called "proper" break-in.


Like I said above...

1) full throttle, and full decell a hand full of times.
2) Check over the engine for leaks, or issues.
3) Ride normally.

Just don't hold it wide open for long periods of time until you get a couple tanks though it. BUT... you can go to full throttle.
 
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i might hit full throttle today ... i know when i press that lever the ski just takes of and throws me back.
i am a first time rider so this speed is good...i dont think i want to even ride at full throttle for that long...at 80-90% is fast enough and so far got it at 70km/hr.
i have no leaks anywhere...all i am worried about is that oil pump not working and next tank will be pure gas or maybe i will do 100:1 for this second tank.
 
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