IBR Issue. 2010 GTX, sometimes no Start

[Coastiejoe]

I have read another post similar to my issue, but can't seem to find it right now.

Two rides ago my wifes ski got an ENGINE light. So I had her turn it off, wait about 30 seconds, and restart it. But it was dead, so no restart. The display had lights and I think it would beep, but would not even try to start, (no cranking).

So I towed her in and got a new sealed battery for the simple fact it was four seasons old. Went out today and it will start start most times, but it is in LIMP mode and maxes out at 32mph. At first we had the IBR functions, then lost them. Ski runs fine when running as far as engine noise and performance other than it is in LIMP MODE. We turned it off and talked for a bit, it would not start/crank.

The entire day it displayed IBR MODULE ERROR and would produce about a 2 second tone and the engine light has been on. Only stored code is B2214 which is "VTS UP/DOWN switches
disconnected fault". There were other codes as well, but I THINK they had to do with either a low voltage issue and or connected to the existing issue.

I have the battery on trickle charge (2 amps) and will start it later on and see what the voltage is at the battery. I just want to make sure it is charging.

So,,, anyone have a clue to what the issue is? I'm not sold it is an IBR MODULE, but it certainly could be. I pulled the POWER PLUG and the IBR MODULE PLUG from the IBR unit and I do not see any corrosion or water within the plug. To be sure, I poured 97% alcohol on the plugs then hit them with a heat guy to evaporate the alcohol. Put it all back together and still same issue.

In a nut shell, even if it does start, it almost never gets the two beeps. Just keep hitting the start button and it seems to start 6 or 10 pushes later. It is still in LIMP MODE and still displays IBR MODULE ERROR. Also, no matter if the lanyard is on or not, it keeps scrolling READING KEY. Putting the key on changes nothing, still says READING KEY.

Any advice is appreciated.

 

[Coastiejoe]

Pulled and reinserted fuses, which we also did earlier, now there is NOTHING wrong. I have to think I have a module issue or something like that. I doubt I have a corrosion issue as the skis are like new and until I moved to FL recently, they have never seen salt water. Today was only the second day in salt water and we had the issue on the first day. Plus, the GTX is my wifes ski and she does not ride like I do. Which is pretty aggressive.

Sooo,,, don't have an answer, but I do think there is an issue even though all is good right now.

 

[ski-d00]

The IBR control modules fail quite a bit on the 2009 and 2010s and they sometimes work intermittently and throw it into limp mode. I think BRP put out a bulletin on this a few years ago and they have an improved module but it is really expensive and requires a retrofit of bracket parts as well. Hopefully, that's not it but it sounds like it could be. They typically get worse until they fail completely.

 

[Coastiejoe]

I've not checked on the price yet. I have heard they aren't cheap. Not sure what that relates to just yet. But if it is the issue, I have. I choice. LIMP mode and an occasional no start won't cut it.

 

[410lesregan]

well i thort i was doing the write thing when i purchased a seadoo gtx limited 260hp 2011 with 31 hours on it,not to be had to replace the IBR actuator wouldn't go into gear engine light keep coming on took it back to seadoo after spending $2600,tried another ride would only go to 5000 rpm then splutter engine light on the ski wasn't supercharging they looked at the super charger and told me a little steel type washer has brocken off and fallin into the motor,have to take the motor out of the ski, I'm presuming to get to the sump to get the broken washer, there telling me upto 6000 for a rebuild WTF.any info on past experiences or knowledge of whats going on,like can i tell them, stuff the washer fix the super charger etc.

 

[Jaybeaux]

Coastiejoe....my 2010 GTX did this same thing this past weekend. When making the dash to the marina to pull the ski, the engine briefly went to limp mode....literally like 5 seconds. Then check engine light went out but the IBR light stayed lit. However, at that point, the ski appeared to function normally.

When we got back to the house and was cleaning the ski, I disconnected the battery for a few minutes. While flushing the exhaust, I noticed the IBR light was out. I put the ski thru all the "gears".... Forward, Neutral, and Reverse. The IBR gate moved and functioned properly.

To be safe (I have a bunch of family coming in 2 weeks and I need the ski) I dropped it off at the dealer. I may pick up a new AGM battery to take with me. Any other recommendations?

With regard to the AGM battery....do they fit in the battery holder?

Thanks,

Jaybeaux


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[Coastiejoe]

The battery comes with a spacer that makes the AGM the same height. So yes, it fits correctly.

My AGM failed on the first day of using it. Purchased an expensive acid battery and all is good. I think all of my issues stemmed from a bad battery.


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[Jaybeaux]

To follow up on my IBR issue, which is now resolved. Took to the dealer. Mechanic found a missing bolt. My theory is with a bolt missing, the IBR gate sometimes would get jammed thus throwing the error. Likewise, sometime the jam would clear, and the IBR would operate normally.

Before leaving the dealer, I started my ski to just be sure things were fixed, and don't you know the IBR error was still there. The tech brought the computer out to the parking lot and worked on it for almost 2 hours. At that time, the problem would occur randomly, meaning sometimes it would error and sometimes it wouldn't. I left the dealership with a less than warm and fuzzy feeling. Two days later, the problem was back, this time the ski was "stuck in neutral".

The next morning I decided to go through all connections and all fuses. On the port side fuse box, there is a 30 amp fuse for the IBR motor. It was good. On the starboard side fuse box, there is a 3 or 5 amp fuse for the IBR Module. It is a little difficult to get to as it is under the back deck.....you have to reach in to get it. When I pulled that fuse I noticed that it was not burned, but it was broken. The plastic top had been crushed a bit. There was zero continuity across this fuse.

My next theory is that the tech perhaps unwittingly broke the fuse reinserting it after checking it. As anyone who has pulled and replaced fuses on these machines knows, it is hard to see the holes where the fuse goes and fat fingers don't help. I replaced the broken fuse with a new one and everything is back in business.

Next stop is to get plenty of spare fuses to keep on hand.

Thanks for the help.

Jaybeaux


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[Coastiejoe]

Nice find,,, Lets hope that was all there is and you have many hours of enjoyment ahead of you...