hesitation from idle to WOT...How to eliminate?
- Thread starter brock1
- Start date
- Status
You should have some pressure when you take the cap The vent line has two parts, one valve lets air in to take the place of the fuel used and is a one way vlave. This is the one under the hood bumper that I said to blow in and should let you blow air in but not let air back out. The other one is under the side bumper rail and is a pressure relief. This one should only let air out of the tank when it reaches about 3psi. From your tank hissing when you take the cap off it sounds like your vent system is working correctly. I would pull the air cleaner and see if any fuel is dripping inside the carbs with a flashlight and small mirror with pressure int he tanka nd the fuel valve on. At this point you need to start eliminating all the not so common issues.
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
So... the compression is good, and the RV clearance is good.
Hummmmmm.........
Did you try to clip back the spark wires at all? I don't think it will be our savoir here... but it can't hurt.
Are we sure it's loading up? Is the dead spot a "stutter", or a "fade, and recover."?
Hummmmmm.........
Did you try to clip back the spark wires at all? I don't think it will be our savoir here... but it can't hurt.
Are we sure it's loading up? Is the dead spot a "stutter", or a "fade, and recover."?
brock1
New Member
Hey doc.... i did clip the plug wires back......the dead spot is kinda like this.......i can idle around for a minute or two then grab the throttle and punch it as if i were drag racing LOL when i mash it i can count to about 1 1/2 before it goes...when you say a fade....kind of it sounds like the engine just bogs a sec then goes like hell....like i said its ok if i am runnig about 1/4 throttle and punch it it will shoot right out of the water and go.....i havent seen a problem like this yet on any machine i have had
brock1
New Member
WhiskeyD
Well-Known Member
That almost makes it sound likes its rich and having to burn off the excess fuel. I'd go through thr carbs again and make sure that everything is nice and clean.
brock1
New Member
i would but DR. HONDA did them so im pretty sure they are good LOL
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
So it's flat. Not a stutter/missing feel. OK... that a lean hesitation. But... you said it gets worse when you idle? That's not typical of being lean.
Pop your RAVE caps, and make sure one of the springs didn't break. (you did try them full tight... right?)
Is your idle low? Regardless... try bringing it up a 100 rpm.
Last edited by a moderator:
brock1
New Member
i tried the raves all the way in ...no change ...pulled raves out last night and cleaned and inspected them AGAIN ...still no change ...springs and bellows looked good.......the only thing that changed when i turned the raves in was it seemed like the dead spot was there all the way past 1/2 throttle.....if i ease into the throttle its fine after about 1/4 but with raves in it took till after 1/2 to really go
WhiskeyD
Well-Known Member
The reason I think you should go through your carbs again is because you said it ran great the first two runs after getting the carbs back from Doc. You could have had something in your tank or lines that got stuck in your carbs again.
Last edited by a moderator:
brock1
New Member
tried them flush......still hesitates the same but will get to max rpm faster after the hesitation passes...turned them 1 turn in and the hesitation is still there but takes a little longer to get to max rpm's...it seems the farther i turn the raves in the slower it will top out...its wiered...kinda like its slowly gaining rpm as it goes along ...any other ideas
brock1
New Member
UPDATE------ I have a theory on this issue but i want some opinions to confirm it.......when i first got my 95 xp i had to change the fuel lines on it and in doing so i found that the lines were full of resistors ???? so not wanting to mess things up i put the resistors back in the new lines and all was ok........When i got the 96 xp the main lines had been changed already so i dont know if they had resistors in them....i think i rememnber seeing in the fuel diagram that there are supposed to be resistors in the lines....could anyone shed some light in this as to whetther or not there are supposed to be resistors....and if so could this cause my problem
brock1
New Member
seadoo has them they look like this but are plastic
http://www.google.com/imgres?um=1&h...11&w=250&h=131&ei=xB8dUKjgF-PmygHe84Bw&zoom=1
http://www.google.com/imgres?um=1&h...11&w=250&h=131&ei=xB8dUKjgF-PmygHe84Bw&zoom=1
brock1
New Member
sorry i dont know why it wont work.....any ideas on anyting else to try doc
It worked for me!
Brock,
Since we seam to be about out of ideas, here's one. It rained here today so I didn't go to the lake, and I had some time on my hands. My 96GTI which has become sorta a secondary ski hasn't been running quite right, bogs some and was getting a little hard to start. So I worked on it today.
Last winter when I put it to bed, I did all the right things, cleaned the carb. filters, and installed a new inline gas filter. We've probably put about 30-35 hours on the ski this summer. Anyway I removed the carbs. opened them up and was surprised to find the pto carb. filter almost completely blocked and the mag. side filter partially blocked.
I have drawn a couple of conclusions from this, I always stop at the same station on the way to the lake and usually top of at the marina during the day. Somewhere the gasoline is suspect and two, which I think we can agree on, the final filters in the carbs. are too damn small. I can't do anything about the carb. filters but I can about the gasoline.
Anyway since we are grasping at straws I thought I would bring this up, it might be worth a try.
Lou
Since we seam to be about out of ideas, here's one. It rained here today so I didn't go to the lake, and I had some time on my hands. My 96GTI which has become sorta a secondary ski hasn't been running quite right, bogs some and was getting a little hard to start. So I worked on it today.
Last winter when I put it to bed, I did all the right things, cleaned the carb. filters, and installed a new inline gas filter. We've probably put about 30-35 hours on the ski this summer. Anyway I removed the carbs. opened them up and was surprised to find the pto carb. filter almost completely blocked and the mag. side filter partially blocked.
I have drawn a couple of conclusions from this, I always stop at the same station on the way to the lake and usually top of at the marina during the day. Somewhere the gasoline is suspect and two, which I think we can agree on, the final filters in the carbs. are too damn small. I can't do anything about the carb. filters but I can about the gasoline.
Anyway since we are grasping at straws I thought I would bring this up, it might be worth a try.
Lou
brock1
New Member
Thanks lou....i actually just did that the other day when i was checking the RV clearence...i figured since they were off i would just take a peek inside them...and as i suspected they were spotless......i gas up all kinds of different places so that idea wont apply to me much....IDK i am out of ideas here also
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
OK.............
I'm sitting here eating my lunch, and I re-read everything. AND.... I watched the vid. One thing to keep in mind is that these are 2-strokes, and it takes a little time (a second or so) to go from low RPM to high RPM, even without a load. In the vid... the person was quickly opening the throttle, and releasing it again in about a 1.5 second time frame. Is this what you are doing?? Are we chasing a 1 second delay from idle to full throttle? If that's the case, I don't think it's going to get any better. Now... if we are talking a real stumble... where you think it's going to die, but then caches itself.... then that is an issue. That's partly why I was asking if it's better when you roll onto the throttle. Basically... without an accel pump... you have to wait for the vacuum to catch up if you are instantly opening the throttle.
With that said... it can be massaged out. You can put in the next size bigger pilot jets, and then close the low screw to compensate.
Just an FYI... the 720 and smaller engines don't seem to have that delay because they don't have a counterbalance in them.... so, they have less mass to try to accelerate.
If I'm totally off base... just tell me... but I'm getting a feelling that we are chasing something that isn't a problem.
A great example is with a "Buell" motorcycle. (The XB series to be exact) Guys would come off of a jap sportbike... and be use to blipping the throttle at a stop light. (why... I don't know) But then they would get on a Buell, and do the same thing. Then... they would complain that they were fouling plugs all the time. Basically... the mass of the big V-twin could accelerate, and every time they would blip the throttle, without a load... they were sending extra fuel into the engine, and it wouldn't accelerate as fast as the jap engines would.
******EDIT*******
OK... we can only talk about so much here. Too much get's lost in translation, because a "STUMBLE" to one person... is a "FLAT SPOT" to someone else.
Go out , and take a vid (with good sound) of your ski, of exactly what it's doing. (on the water) Or bring it to me. (lol)
I'm sitting here eating my lunch, and I re-read everything. AND.... I watched the vid. One thing to keep in mind is that these are 2-strokes, and it takes a little time (a second or so) to go from low RPM to high RPM, even without a load. In the vid... the person was quickly opening the throttle, and releasing it again in about a 1.5 second time frame. Is this what you are doing?? Are we chasing a 1 second delay from idle to full throttle? If that's the case, I don't think it's going to get any better. Now... if we are talking a real stumble... where you think it's going to die, but then caches itself.... then that is an issue. That's partly why I was asking if it's better when you roll onto the throttle. Basically... without an accel pump... you have to wait for the vacuum to catch up if you are instantly opening the throttle.
With that said... it can be massaged out. You can put in the next size bigger pilot jets, and then close the low screw to compensate.
Just an FYI... the 720 and smaller engines don't seem to have that delay because they don't have a counterbalance in them.... so, they have less mass to try to accelerate.
If I'm totally off base... just tell me... but I'm getting a feelling that we are chasing something that isn't a problem.
A great example is with a "Buell" motorcycle. (The XB series to be exact) Guys would come off of a jap sportbike... and be use to blipping the throttle at a stop light. (why... I don't know) But then they would get on a Buell, and do the same thing. Then... they would complain that they were fouling plugs all the time. Basically... the mass of the big V-twin could accelerate, and every time they would blip the throttle, without a load... they were sending extra fuel into the engine, and it wouldn't accelerate as fast as the jap engines would.
******EDIT*******
OK... we can only talk about so much here. Too much get's lost in translation, because a "STUMBLE" to one person... is a "FLAT SPOT" to someone else.
Go out , and take a vid (with good sound) of your ski, of exactly what it's doing. (on the water) Or bring it to me. (lol)
Last edited by a moderator:
- Status
