hesitation from idle to WOT...How to eliminate?

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Ok im back....tried turning the rave caps all the way in .....No change in the hesitation but it did feel like i gained some rpm's by doing that so thats a good thing....the only difference i noticed by turning the raves in was that it seemed like the hesitation was anywhere from idle to half throttle now instread of just the first 1/4 throttle.....just didnt seem like the power was there till about 3/4 then it woud go...... i also medded with the LS a bit i set it at factory 1 turn then turned them in 1/8 of a turn till i was at 1/2 a turn out......no change ......DOC as far as is it better or worse when its hot...well when i first start it to go riding i idle around for a min or 2 to warm it up ...then that first time i hit it its really bad but gets better till i ride for about 10 min then it sems to get worse the longer i ride.....I was going to say doc that after i had yiou clean them the first 2 rides out it ran GREAT iwas so pleased with it i actually felt like i YEAH I GOT THIS ya know...but now back to doom and gloom ......I dod find this last night ...If i run hard 3/4 to WOT for maybe 5 min then stop and mash it it is fine but if i idle for more than say 10 sec. it will do it again....also i found that if i run her then shut it down and swim for 5 -10 min then try to start it it is very hard to start i have to hold the throttle open to get her goin.....
 
I hate to say it... but it sounds like your rotary valve is out of spec. Did you check it when you had the carbs off?
 
Dr Honda said:
I hate to say it... but it sounds like your rotary valve is out of spec. Did you check it when you had the carbs off?
Click to expand...

OK, I've seen answers like this before. QUESTION -
How does the Rv get out of sync?....... Isn't it held in place with "teeth" over a gear?
 
no i didnt ...but i can if you think thats the issue.... If that were so why did it run great after putting the carbs back on after you did them....i went out 2 or three times and it was great
 
HMMMM evry time i post everybody leaves LOL......i was just looking up how to check the RV clearence and cant really get a good answer on how to go about it...does anybody have a vid or description on how to do it other than what the manual says
 
well im just trying to figure out how to check it...im going to use a feeler guage ........This is my understanding on how to check the clearence....1) remove the carbs 2) remove the intake ..(intake and rvcover are one piece right) ..3)then remove the o-ring..????what freakin o-ring........4)then bolt the cover back on a stick the guage between the RV and the cover and measure the distance between the 2 right???
 
When you take intake off it will have an o'ring going around it in a groove.
 
ok so thats the o ring they are refering to...i was thinking that they meant there was another one in between the cover and the actual valve.....
 
I'm starting to believe this is just normal behavior for 97 xps. You guys have pretty much described a symptom I have had on mine since it was brand new. I have had everything done to it and it has always exhibited this same behavior. Even after an engine rebuild and carb rebuild. I sure hope someone figures it out and shares with all of us. Personally, I think the A-pumps on some of these carbs just don't work right. I have verified that mine squirts, but It seems like the timing and volume for that squirt would have to be just right for this concept to work and I don't think it does on 100% of the ones manufactured.
 
UPDATE---- Pulled the RV apart last night and measured the clearence...Clearence was good it measured .033 i could barely get the .035 to fit..it would only go in if i forced it REALLY hard....BUT...I do have one concern i figured i would check the RV backlash while i was in there and if i grab the plate i can move it back anf forth aboiut 1/8 inch...Im sure thisd is still within spec so i dont know where to go from here .....any ideas
 
So from here do i just live with it...i did what was suggested with the RV and it checked out ok but now noone seems to have any suggestions on where to go next??? I just want it running good befroe the end of the month we are going camping for 8 days and will be right on the water and it will get used every day..i cant see every XP being this bad
 
Brock, Do your carbs. have an accelerator pump? I don't know for sure or even why. But my set of carbs. with an accelerator pump, seems to be the set that's giving me trouble. When I put the stock carbs. back on everything cleared up.

The newer carbs. with the accelerator pump are supposed to do better in no wake zones, and also are supposed to be better under acceleration. For some reason the set I have were just the opposite. I know that this doesn't help you now but I will know more this winter when I send the carbs. to the Doc.

I think what I would do it go back and set the carbs. to factory specs., and go from there. After all the fiddling I did with my carbs., they are back to factory specs.

Lou

Oh and do you want an little whine with your cheese. LOL
 
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LOU....No my carbs are not the accelerator pump style they are the stock style.... i took them off the other day to do what doc said and checked the RV...the RV checked out fine so from there i went through and set the carb back to stock settings and still no change...Im getting ready to sell this thing....a friend wants to trade me for his yamaha gp1200...believe me i would MUCH rather have my seadoo but im tired of having a lack in performance...
 
maybe i am reading the manual wrong i thought it says anything over 0.35mm would create a hard starting i could only get to 0.33mm and barely could get the tip of 0.35mm in there.....this is the first time i have done this so i might be reading it wrong
 
You posted up .033 ... and since you didn't put any units with it... the extra "0" makes it in inches. So... what did you measure it in??? American or Metric? Then... is that .033" or .33mm?
 
You need to clarify, first you said .033 that is inches and out of spec then you sais .33 that is milimeters and within spec so.......?
I know Dr. is the expert but sometimes shi! happens. Since you said it is hard to start after it sits I still think it might be the carbs. I had a similar problem recently. The 1996 XP ran just like yours and then refused to start at all after sitting. I rebuilt the carbs, replaced the gray fuel lines, fuel valve and filter and then this problem started, ran great first few hours then your same symptoms started. Got the ski back and if you open the hood there is s small hole in the rubber bumper for the hood to close on, this is the checkvalve for the tank so if you blow hard into it it will pressurise the tank. In my situation when I pressurised the tank and turned the fuel on I could hear fuel flowing on the rear carb. After taking the air cleaner off and a small mirror I could see some fuel dripping from the rear carb into the engine. I took the carbs back off and the rear carb had a small piece of plastic like a piece of a tooth brush bristle keeping teh needle from sealing completely flooding the engine. The plastic matched nothing I had or had ever seen so I am not sure where it came from but the problem is fixed and the ski runs great. Might be a place to check. Also if your tank is not holding pressure or holding too much it can cause hard starting too.
 
mikidymac said:
You need to clarify, first you said .033 that is inches and out of spec then you sais .33 that is milimeters and within spec so.......?
I know Dr. is the expert but sometimes shi! happens. Since you said it is hard to start after it sits I still think it might be the carbs. I had a similar problem recently. The 1996 XP ran just like yours and then refused to start at all after sitting. I rebuilt the carbs, replaced the gray fuel lines, fuel valve and filter and then this problem started, ran great first few hours then your same symptoms started. Got the ski back and if you open the hood there is s small hole in the rubber bumper for the hood to close on, this is the checkvalve for the tank so if you blow hard into it it will pressurise the tank. In my situation when I pressurised the tank and turned the fuel on I could hear fuel flowing on the rear carb. After taking the air cleaner off and a small mirror I could see some fuel dripping from the rear carb into the engine. I took the carbs back off and the rear carb had a small piece of plastic like a piece of a tooth brush bristle keeping teh needle from sealing completely flooding the engine. The plastic matched nothing I had or had ever seen so I am not sure where it came from but the problem is fixed and the ski runs great. Might be a place to check. Also if your tank is not holding pressure or holding too much it can cause hard starting too.
Click to expand...

ok just looked at the guage and it was .33mm ...that one would fit just snug.... then the .35mm would fit if i jammed it hard in there
 
ROtary valve should be fine then. Start looking at the fuel system again. Just my opinion.
 
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