hesitation from idle to WOT...How to eliminate?

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One last thing.... the shaft seals looked good to me... but try this....... Put a couple HUGE globs of waterproof grease around the shafts (external of the carb) to make sure you don't have an air leak around the butterfly (throttle) shafts. If you have a leak at the shaft... you could get a small lean hesitation.
 
i may sound stupid here but what do you mean the shafts of the carb????i get things really fast if i see it in a pic or in person so a pic of what you are saying would be great...LOL .......i wouldnt think that this is a problem if i didnt have a GSX with the same engine that has no hesitation at all...IDK .....im ready to just sell it and buy a 4 stroke....shhh dont tell anyone i said that LOL...By the way how much do you think it would be to ship the ski to you FEDEX LOL
 
Brock, If you put it through a car shredder first then it might all fit into a "if it fits, it ships" $5 boxes from the USPS :)

and don't get the idea of putting the lube on a different shaft of yours.......it goes on the carb LOL :)

I bet Dr. is onto something....a small air leak somewhere.
 
OK.... so you have a second 800 as a reference. OK... so at least we aren't chasing a ghost. The reason I was saying that... was because the person in the vid, wasn't giving the engine enough time to accelerate, and I wanted to make sure you weren't doing that.


The bottom shaft, where the throttle cable is hooked to, and the butterfly is screwed into, inside. That shaft that is physically twisting as the throttle opens. #21 below.



http://fiche.seadoowarehouse.com/se...0&B=14&modelid=1996 Sea Doo PWC XP CARBURETOR
 
oh ok....so the one on the bottom is for the butterfly and the one on the top is for the choke...got it ill try it...gonna just use some of that lube that seadoobuddy mentioned...got lots of that on the headboard
 
so you said you messed with the low speed needle and it didn't change anything? i think you said you went a full turn in from factory setting but only 1/4 turn out from factory? was there any change at all with the adjustment?
 
not a full turn...factory is only 1 turn out....i went at factory then in a 1/8 turn till i hit 1/2 turn out...then went back to 1 turnout and turned it out till i hit 1 3/4 turn out still no change ......
 
my ski did the same thing when i first got it... after I cleaned the entire fuel system and valve and raves it ran tip shape... took the carbs to a local ski shop and he set everything a little rich and cleaned it right up...
 
i have done everything fuel related to this ski and no change...i also sent the carbs to dr. honda
 
have you had the carbs tested? i know in the years ive rebuilt carbs and sync'd them, just becuase they are opening at the same time doesnt mean that are sync'd... i have a older carbed volvo boat that is a nightmare to keep running right, come to find out the carb was just warn out from all the bad gas and crap... bought a new carb and ran perfect... also, have to checked the spark with a spark tool??
 
spark was checked and very strong.......as far as the carbs being synced???? I dont know i synced them myself but thats not a guarantee...maybe its something to lookinto
 
im pretty sure honda didnt do them, since they have to be on the engine... but yes every dual+ carbs need to be synced...
 
i have a syncing tool that i used and according to that they are good??? dont know really i guess
 
are the butterflys synced? thats mostly the important part... what kind of sync tool?? one you put over the carb holes or vacuum style?
 
over the carb holes.......how else would you sync the butterflys.... I borrowed the tool from a buddy so if i need it agaqin i guess i could get it.....any way to do the butterflys without it
 
visual inspection my best guess... i dont know if theres a open stop on these carbs or not... i know theres one for closed, imo go that route, sync the butterflys in the idle position, then also check your throttle linkage adjustment to see if they are opening to the full WOT...
 
I don't like the over carb model sync's myself. I just drill and tap the intake track for a mips X barb fitting. The over the carb models have a tendency to change the rpm's.
 
I don't like the over carb model sync's myself. I just drill and tap the intake track for a mips X barb fitting. The over the carb models have a tendency to change the rpm's.

AND... you have to adjust the unit to get a reference #. It's OK on an old VW.... but not a seadoo.

As above... they have to be bolted down to do the sync'ing. I just do a visual. Open the throttle, and make sure they are in the same position. For these engine's... it's good enough. As 470 was saying... a manifold that is tapped for a Manometer is the best way to do it... but it's a lot of extra work for a recreational ski.
 
Ok........update......IT WORKED...I threw the grease on the shaft and the hesitation is almost down to none......THANKS DR> HONDA .....BUT....still one gremlin to catch .......every once in a while if i fall off while riding and go to start it i cant get it started...it will take a while of holding the throttle wide open to get it to fire.........BUT this only happends if im running at low rpm's for a while if i run WOT and do a spin and fall of i can jump right back on a she will fire right up...so im thinking that im loading up ......if that is the case what is the best way to lean her out....the lows are set at factory 1 turn out...
 
When you get tired of using the grease. You can fix it buy buying a bushing kit for the throttle shaft or I'm sure DR. could made you one.
 
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