Adding an extra battery...

[RFoster130]

I havent had a single problem yet. But I have only had it out 3 times since I got it done. I don't let it charge both at the same time though. I use it on position 1 to start the boat. If we are gonna be sitting somewhere, I use 2 to switch to the deep cycle and jam out to the radio. When I am ready to go again, i switch back to #1. Then after it charges a while, I switch to #2 to let it charge a bit. I never use the Both selection, but it is nice to know it is there. I dont really see any problems with this setup.

 

[seedooer95]

I have been studying a little on hooking the deep cycle to the starting and found its not a good idea according to these articles. My concern even with the switch is that both batteries would be charging simutaneously while the boat was running presenting the following problem...

When connecting batteries in parallel be sure to use the same type of battery, for example; two deep cycle batteries. The age of the batteries should be the same. A new battery connected in parallel to an older one will not get fully charged, and the older battery may get overcharged

If you connect two that are not the same type or capacity, you will either over charge the smaller of the two, or you will under charge the larger of the two.

I dont know...I' m all for the idea of having two batteries, just don't want to be sorry in the long run...

i've installed and used a two battery system where one is deep cycle marine and the other is a car battery and use a one - two- all switch, i switch between batteries with no problem but not both at the same time, don't see the need to charge both at the same time. I recommend a volt guage so you don't run one battery down too far that it can't start your boat.
Happy boating

 

[tresvatos1]

You just answered my question guys! thanks!! I want to go with the switch set-up because I already have a good deep cycle battery at home not being used..I was just concerned with having them both being charged at the same time, but the way you guys are using the switch it makes sense to me..

Are you able to turn from 1 to 2 after the boat is cranked without killing power to the engines? In other words crank with battery 1 then switch over to battery 2 without killing the engine..?

RFoster where do you have the wires that go from your external charger port going to? the battery, or the switch?

Thanks for the help

 

[kustomkarl]

The idea of charging both batteries is to be sure both are fully charged if it needs it. If you only charge 1 battery all the time and its never charged it will go dead after some use. If you start on one (#1) battery and switch it to all, after starting, both get charged if needed. Then park and listen to say Vhf radio/ Stereo, switch to #2, then restart on #1, when you want to go, you will never have a dead starting battery. Remember to always switch to All, when under way so you'll never have a dead battery.

Karl

 

[kustomkarl]

Yes, you can switch from#1 to #2 or ALL while under way...just don't turn it to off, of it will cause electrical problems, while the engine is running. "Off" is for storing or no use of the boat.

Karl

 

[tresvatos1]

Gotcha! Thanks!

So it would be o.k. to charge both #1 and #2 together while underway?

Sorry for going so in-depth on little minute stuff like this, but this is the best time to discuss these things in the winter when we are not all in a rush and having other problems trying to get on the water!

 

[seadoosnipe]

Discharged battery?....

Gotcha! Thanks!

So it would be o.k. to charge both #1 and #2 together while underway?

Sorry for going so in-depth on little minute stuff like this, but this is the best time to discuss these things in the winter when we are not all in a rush and having other problems trying to get on the water!

There is one issue to keep in the back of your mind. Most people use this configuration while on the beach, listening to music from the stereo system. Lets look at an example. For instance: if you are beached for a long period of time, listening to your music or whatever and on battery position #1, then notice this battery has discharged, you should switch to battery #2 and run the engine awhile before switching to "All", or the battery that was discharged. I've found in the past, from experience, that if you have a fully discharged battery and try to swap your "Perko" battery switch from the good battery (#2) to the discharged battery (#1) after you start, the motor will die. You should always swap to the "All" position when running from a discharged battery, so you have a good battery with enough amps to continue to run the electrical system.

What happens is, when you swap to that dead battery, the voltage regulator will divert a much larger portion of your generated electricity to the battery, away from the motor, killing the ignition.........so make it a practice to use the "All" selection while running. Also, if you are using the twin battery set up for using 12 volt services while parked, you should alternate that usage from battery #1 to #2 and vice versa each time you do. This way, you are using both batteries equally, so one battery is not always being overworked.:cheers:

 

[tresvatos1]

Here is a diagram of the switch we have been talking about...

It is going to be a chore to get all those cables attached to that one lug that the starter goes to. Ive got to attach the big amp cable, accessorie cable, starter cable, LED cable, and a big battery charger cable as well all to that one lug! I guess the best way would be to try to combime as many cables into as few terminals as possible to bolt on to the switch...think RFoster had done this, but it's going to be tricky..

I just thought of one other thing too to ponder...I use a farad capacitor for my stereo system, which is basically a huge amount of electricity stored in a small place for compensation of amperage up-and- downs due to stereo volume..Hoping that if when the switch is turned to off and then on if that won't cause a power spike to the battery, or capacitor..something else for me to think about....I will try to look on some stereo forums to get an anwer for that one..

 

[seadoosnipe]

Perko Switch...

Here is a diagram of the switch we have been talking about...

It is going to be a chore to get all those cables attached to that one lug that the starter goes to. Ive got to attach the big amp cable, accessorie cable, starter cable, LED cable, and a big battery charger cable as well all to that one lug! I guess the best way would be to try to combime as many cables into as few terminals as possible to bolt on to the switch...think RFoster had done this, but it's going to be tricky..

I just thought of one other thing too to ponder...I use a farad capacitor for my stereo system, which is basically a huge amount of electricity stored in a small place for compensation of amperage up-and- downs due to stereo volume..Hoping that if when the switch is turned to off and then on if that won't cause a power spike to the battery, or capacitor..something else for me to think about....I will try to look on some stereo forums to get an anwer for that one..

At the Auto Parts store, they may have something like what you need to connect all the wires to one lug. I got a piece about 4 or 5 years ago that connected to my positive post, that had an opening on it's backside for putting in the raw cables and then, tighten an allen head lug to secure them. I think had 5 positive wires, of different gages, tied into that one lug and bolted to my battery. I just don't remember what it was called.

I really don't know that much about these new fangled stereo systems. We didn't have all those amps and power boosters back then, when I would rock with my volume wide open playing Zepplin till my 6X9's blew out. Today, with the technology, it's unreal. Back then, if you had a fader, a small power amp and equalizer, you were the badest dude on the block. Now, they'd laugh you off the block...........:cheers:

 

[tresvatos1]

I will come up with something Seadoosnipe, and post pics.. DarthSpeed is the one at fault for everyone putting these thousand dollar plus stereos in their seadoo boats.. look at what he's rockin'!.. That system easily cost 2,000 grand plus.. I appreciate everyone's help and opinions with this though.

RFoster I ordered the switch, so maybe I can install it during Christmas.. I forgot about the farad cap issue though when I decided to go with the switch tho. I may just have to wire my amp wire to the deep cycle ( batt # 2 ) so that the farad cap and battery are always at a constant voltage, otherwise it will cause a voltage spike blowing my fuses when these are connected by the switch...something else for me to figure out!

 

[seadoosnipe]

Over my head...

I will come up with something Seadoosnipe, and post pics.. DarthSpeed is the one at fault for everyone putting these thousand dollar plus stereos in their seadoo boats.. look at what he's rockin'!.. That system easily cost 2,000 grand plus.. I appreciate everyone's help and opinions with this though.

RFoster I ordered the switch, so maybe I can install it during Christmas.. I forgot about the farad cap issue though when I decided to go with the switch tho. I may just have to wire my amp wire to the deep cycle ( batt # 2 ) so that the farad cap and battery are always at a constant voltage, otherwise it will cause a voltage spike blowing my fuses when these are connected by the switch...something else for me to figure out!

Man, all that just went right over the top of my head!... I might be able to help you with the battery but I know now, without a doubt, I know nothing about stereo's...........LOL

 

[tresvatos1]

Haha.. yeah just a brief explanation; A farad capacitor simply provides a audio power amplifier a surge of extra voltage when the amp struggles to hit a very loud note. It is just a voltage storage resovoir for the power amplifier when needed that provides a split second of extra power when the amp needs it. The thing is that the farad cap. is placed between the amplifier and the amp. supply battery. If the farad cap has all that voltage/amperage stored and is connected to the battery without making the voltage equal between the two before hand that power spike will blow fuses and wear on the power cables. If the the farad cap is not slowly charged with a resistor before being connected to the battery it will suck the battery dry in a second or two. So basically if the farad cap is switched on and off from the battery it would pose these problems every time the switch was disconnected, or turned to off.... confused yet? !!

 

[seadoosnipe]

Cool!...

Haha.. yeah just a brief explanation; A farad capacitor simply provides a audio power amplifier a surge of extra voltage when the amp struggles to hit a very loud note. It is just a voltage storage resovoir for the power amplifier when needed that provides a split second of extra power when the amp needs it. The thing is that the farad cap. is placed between the amplifier and the amp. supply battery. If the farad cap has all that voltage/amperage stored and is connected to the battery without making the voltage equal between the two before hand that power spike will blow fuses and wear on the power cables. If the the farad cap is not slowly charged with a resistor before being connected to the battery it will suck the battery dry in a second or two. So basically if the farad cap is switched on and off from the battery it would pose these problems every time the switch was disconnected, or turned to off.... confused yet? !!

No, not confused. You explained it very well. You learn something new everyday.

I remember back in the mid 80s, having a bow rider out in the Gulf of Mexico. I had a regular stereo with a couple speakers in it, nothing else. In a matter of a few hours of fishing, I ran down the battery and was stranded. So, needless to say, I've always brought the portable radio since. Call me a chicken, but heck, just don't know enough about all the stereo stuff. At our hang-out, I do know, the louder and cool the stereo, the more babes it seems to attract!....:hurray:

 

[tresvatos1]

we are definately on the same page on that comment Seadoosnpe!

 

[iukaman]

Here is the schematic i plan to use. All acessories that I add will be on Battery 2.

I plan to do some tasteful LED projects and would liek to do some tower lights (tired of holding onto Q-beam while driving and searching for buoys)

It is not really a detailed as i woudl liek ti to be, but i am not an artist - just an engineer

 

[tresvatos1]

Iuka man I have dual Optimas hooked up now with a battery combinr which acts like an isolater without voltage draw.. Probably see you at pickwick this summer if you are from Iuka!

 

[iukaman]

Well i am not from there, but I have been going there on weekends since i was about 3 years old (28 now). So it is like a home to me.

I actually started my dual battery and man is there no room. I am about 15-20 minutes from any parts store anywhere so getting work done makes me mad when i dont have a part! This thing is killer. Wish i had someone that knew a little about these boats in my back pocket.

Finally found a spot i think. under the left side console. Just finally had the guts to take it all apart. neck deep now!

 

[tresvatos1]

Man me and Rfoster are pretty dang up to speed on the Speedster like you have.. what exactly do you want to do..

 

[iukaman]

I want everything hidden, and sleek looking.

Sub(s) - with enclosure
Sub Amp
2nd battery
on-board charger
Batt Isolator

etc.?

The more i keep reading on this site the more i want to do.

The battery was rough at first, but i am getting an idea on where i want to put it.

The subs will be a challenge. i want to be able to do (2) 12"s. I really dont use the ski-locker much and would be OK with losing it. Just not sure. I am thinking i am going to need to learn some 'glass work.

 

[RFoster130]

Ski locker isnt even remotely an option for audio or any sensitifve equipment. It gets very wet.

 

[tresvatos1]

follow rfoster's post on the adding a second battery.. I just put mine in the same as his, I just used an isolater/combiner just to try something different..The subs are goin to be tricky with an enclosure, but if you have engineering skills and available tools you may be able to come up with something, maybe from fiberglass.. I definately would not use the ski locker for any electrical equipment though...The main thing you will need is alot, I mean alot of free time to get the wiring done correct.. I would imagine i probably bought at least 15 packs of wire loom and who knows how much wire to get my speedster stereo wired...let us know your progress!

 

[tresvatos1]

here is a pic of where my second or "house " battery is.. so many wires are connected because now it powers all nonessential accessories..

 

[iukaman]

Holy cow, That is alot of wires.

Unfortunately the battery cannot be added right next to the otherone. I think I am goign to put it under the passenger side console. Found a great tucked away place. I will try and take pictures as I progress.

The ski locker I wish was sealed better than it actually is. But you guys are right, i have never seen it empty of water. I have never done glass work, but i have been pretty handy at some wood work - so should not be difficult to wrap it in glass right? If i hide it, then no worries about having to paint it either.

Where there is structural fiberglass - ribs if you will - around the front of the boat (will take pictures if needed), they are not running wires or anything that is known through there that could cause a reason not to anchors stuff to them? (sorry for the weird description). I figured most all wires were visible in some type of loome. Just dont want to go screwing something and then get screwed... :coolgleam:

 

[iukaman]

Does anyone know how to wire up the isolator from two engines? I dont want to screw up anything, but i figured just hooking both stator wires to the alternator side....anyone know of any problems this might cause???

Thanks

 

[parrothd]

I just installed mine, but haven't "tested" it yet....I ran a wire from the main batt positive terminal, to the center post, then connected the AUX battery to the "b" post and connected all grounds, planning on connecting my accessories/radio to the aux battery only.