I have a 2006 (I think) sporster 4-tech (white-yellow-black color) that would like to add an extra battery to take care of the steroe system and amplifier power needs when I beach the boat for long times. I know I would need a deep charge (i think this is the right terminology) battery, a switch, cables and bat tray. Was wondering if anyone has done this modification that can guide me through, show me pics and diagrams of the connection. Local shops want to charge $200 to $300 in labor plus parts. In today's economy, is better if I get guidance from the exprts like you all and then decide if I should tackle this project or not. I'm handy with my hands but this is kind of new to me but with someone's help I'm positive I can do it. Another question is... is the boat wired for an extra battery that could make my connections simpler? Thanks in anticipoation for any help you all can give me.
Adding an extra battery...
- Thread starter Zonic2001
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cnpalmer
New Member
Here's some basic info I've gathered from some other posts...
-West Marine makes a great switch that allows you to run 2 batteries with positions for bank 1, 2, all or none. This allows you to connect 2 batteries to, one for starting bank 1, one for "gear" bank 2, and All so when you are running both batteries wilkl charge. This is a make-before-break switch so you can switch it without interuppting power. I think the switch is $35.
-Get a "deep cycle" marine battery. They hold up better to the elements, take a deeper charge and are built better for deep cranking. Usualy cost is about $100 or so I think.
-With the switch the connections are pretty straight forwrd. W/o the switch, run them in parallel like the previous post said. This way your "stuff" is only see 12V still but you'll have the capacity of 2 batteries to turn things over and run on. Both will also charge while running.
-Get a GOOD battery tray & strap. I purchased a battery keep from my locao Autozone that is make of rubber to provide a bit of flex and won't snap like plastic ones. Also, when securing the tray, suggestions include using a whole tube of RTV to secure it unless you can find some decent areas to bolt it to.
-Isolatros do work if you want to add one. And there's also some auto-sensing/auto-switching switches that will automatically switch between the 2 batteries for charging purposes when voltage drops to a certain level.
-Lastly, there's another component you can get that will kill power from the battery if the voltage drops below the necessary starting/cranking power. So you could run your head unit/amp right up until the boat will no longer start. Nice addtion but I'd prefer the new multi-position switch.
Hope that helps out some.
-West Marine makes a great switch that allows you to run 2 batteries with positions for bank 1, 2, all or none. This allows you to connect 2 batteries to, one for starting bank 1, one for "gear" bank 2, and All so when you are running both batteries wilkl charge. This is a make-before-break switch so you can switch it without interuppting power. I think the switch is $35.
-Get a "deep cycle" marine battery. They hold up better to the elements, take a deeper charge and are built better for deep cranking. Usualy cost is about $100 or so I think.
-With the switch the connections are pretty straight forwrd. W/o the switch, run them in parallel like the previous post said. This way your "stuff" is only see 12V still but you'll have the capacity of 2 batteries to turn things over and run on. Both will also charge while running.
-Get a GOOD battery tray & strap. I purchased a battery keep from my locao Autozone that is make of rubber to provide a bit of flex and won't snap like plastic ones. Also, when securing the tray, suggestions include using a whole tube of RTV to secure it unless you can find some decent areas to bolt it to.
-Isolatros do work if you want to add one. And there's also some auto-sensing/auto-switching switches that will automatically switch between the 2 batteries for charging purposes when voltage drops to a certain level.
-Lastly, there's another component you can get that will kill power from the battery if the voltage drops below the necessary starting/cranking power. So you could run your head unit/amp right up until the boat will no longer start. Nice addtion but I'd prefer the new multi-position switch.
Hope that helps out some.
cnpalmer
New Member
No problem...
RTV = Room Temperature Vulcanizing silicone. Pretty much any silicone will work. Liquid Nails etc. I picked up some that withstands mold, mildew etc. at Home Depot.
Here's a link to the switch:
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...rimary Search/mode matchallpartial/10/0?N=377 710 1641&Ne=712&Ntt=Switches, Fuses &Ntx=mode matchallpartial&page=CategoryDisplayLevel1&isLTokenURL=true&storeNum=5002&subdeptNum=9&classNum=297
On that page is the links to instructions, mounting diagrams etc.
Manufacturer's Documents
Instructions
Mounting Diagram
Dimensioned Drawing
e-Series Battery Switches Brochure
RTV = Room Temperature Vulcanizing silicone. Pretty much any silicone will work. Liquid Nails etc. I picked up some that withstands mold, mildew etc. at Home Depot.
Here's a link to the switch:
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...rimary Search/mode matchallpartial/10/0?N=377 710 1641&Ne=712&Ntt=Switches, Fuses &Ntx=mode matchallpartial&page=CategoryDisplayLevel1&isLTokenURL=true&storeNum=5002&subdeptNum=9&classNum=297
On that page is the links to instructions, mounting diagrams etc.
Manufacturer's Documents
Instructions
Mounting Diagram
Dimensioned Drawing
e-Series Battery Switches Brochure
I just did this in my 2007 Speedster. I bought a gel cell blue top battery and an open isolator that handles 70 amps, I get about 2 1/2 hours of play time with a 600 watt amp that powers 2 6" mids, 2 fosgate tower speakers and a 12 inch sub.
I ran the main power line that comes out from the boats main power switch to the center post on my isolator, and on that same center isolator post you need a second line that runs directly to the battery's positive post, then from each of the outbound posts on the isolator to each of the positive battery posts. Leave all the wiriing from the main battery alone and run a power line from your second battery to your amp.
The rest is a cakewalk
I have similar stereo system. To the boat radio I installed two tower speakers and each of them have a speaker to the front and back of the boat. Both cylindrical shape speakers boxes are attached to the boat tower top rail. When I added the speakers I needed more power therefore the need for the amp. Since the main boat battery wiring has an on-off switch, I like your idea of leaving the boat main battery wiring untouched and add a new loop for the amp with the new battery using the isolator. I hope I'm following you correctly. My radio is connected to the boat system but my amp is powered directly... don't know why but the fellow that installed it did it that way. I may disconnect the stereo from the boat power system and bring it to the new isolator loop in conjuction with the amp. My question is... what gauge wiring you use? I found an isolator pic in west marine but do you have pics of the actual installation? Where you located the isolator, inside the motor compartment somewhere?
You upted to use the 1-2-all switch, why? Any advantage instead of using isolators?
My last question is... my main battery has an on/of swicth maybe like your boat does, if I get the 1-2-all-switch, do I get rid of the stock switch that came with the boat? If not, then where I install the multi switch compared with the boat on/off one? Read the switch instructions in the westmarine.com site and it does not address this scenerio.
You ran a line from the main power switch (my main boat on/off switch I assume located on the rear of the boat) to the center post of the isolator. I assume you took off the main power switch and looking at the back of the power switch where you connected this line to? Between the batt and the switch or the other end that goes into the boat accessories/engine?
Then you ran a line from the center isolator post to the + on battery #2. Then you said that from each of the outbound posts of the isolator you ran two line, one to each + of the two batteries. Am I correct? Therefore, bat #2 will have two lines runing fom the isolator to the +. One going from the center post and one going from the outbound post. Did I captured this correctly?
I have bought all the stuff to add the 2nd battery. I opted for the combo switch. My main reason was cost. The new switch was only $34. I plan on keeping the amp and radio on the switch. I like being able to kill everything on the boat when it is not in use.
In your boat you have a main power "dial switch". It has a red wire that runs to the positive side of your boats main battery. I disconnected this line from the battery and connected it to the center post of my isolator.
Next I ran a line from the positive of that same battery to the center post, this ensures you have juice to start your boat.
Then I ran a power line from the A post on the isolator to the positive side of your first battery, and a second power line from the B post on your isolator to the positive side of your second battery.
Last I grounded the negative of the second battery.
I used 8 guage multistrand wiring everywhere.
I can send pics if you need.
This was also my first installation, it was intimidating but in the end it worked great. Dont worry you'll be fine
Next I ran a line from the positive of that same battery to the center post, this ensures you have juice to start your boat.
Then I ran a power line from the A post on the isolator to the positive side of your first battery, and a second power line from the B post on your isolator to the positive side of your second battery.
Last I grounded the negative of the second battery.
I used 8 guage multistrand wiring everywhere.
I can send pics if you need.
This was also my first installation, it was intimidating but in the end it worked great. Dont worry you'll be fine
IMO im not a big fan of isolator "switches"
When im out in the water, havin beers in the sun all day I know I would forget to switch it back and forth and end up stranded somehow. The switch I bought was 70 $ in Canada and it automatically charges whichever battery has the lower charge.
My setup works perfectly.
When im out in the water, havin beers in the sun all day I know I would forget to switch it back and forth and end up stranded somehow. The switch I bought was 70 $ in Canada and it automatically charges whichever battery has the lower charge.
My setup works perfectly.
Thunderkat13
New Member
Oso, where did you order your switch from...Do you happen to have a link to the site ?
thanks
thanks
Thunderkat13
New Member
thanks. im doing some online kit searching
timmyboy76
New Member
oso....
......so at the isolater, you got 2-connections on center post, and 2 connections at "first" battery.
Want to use "isolater" then he 1,2,,off,both..switch also.
......so at the isolater, you got 2-connections on center post, and 2 connections at "first" battery. Want to use "isolater" then he 1,2,,off,both..switch also.
http://www.surepower.com/pdf/180119A.pdf
thats the one... model 702 2 battery is the one I have.
Following the instructions to a T didnt work, I think because the way the speedster is wired, the closest way is FIGURE A ...... but, I had to add a second power wire from the positive side of the battery to the middle post on the isolator.
Works like a charm
thats the one... model 702 2 battery is the one I have.
Following the instructions to a T didnt work, I think because the way the speedster is wired, the closest way is FIGURE A ...... but, I had to add a second power wire from the positive side of the battery to the middle post on the isolator.
Works like a charm
oso... if you don't mind, send me pics.
I'm planning to go with this isolator that is locally available...
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...URL=true&storeNum=9&subdeptNum=572&classNum=0
Looks similar to yours!
I'm planning to go with this isolator that is locally available...
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...URL=true&storeNum=9&subdeptNum=572&classNum=0
Looks similar to yours!
This is why I prefer to use the other method with the combo switch. If I am running on 1 battery and I kill it, there is always a charged one waiting.
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