• This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.

96 SPX replace entire engine or hopefully top end?

Status
Not open for further replies.
And I know you're with pops today so if you can still answer it would be much appreciated. Don't want to go too big and damage the edges of the holes. ( I think the head cover may be salvageable and is in better EXTERIOR shape than the one on my hx.. Who knows what the inside looks like.
Thanks !


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Yea I know but he answered that other post that is driving you guys bonkers like ten min ago (trust me, I'm slamming my head against the wall just from READING that thread )


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
109.jpg
$25 +actual shipping

Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
 
Yeah pm me your address and I'll figure out shipping shouldn't be more than 7 or 8 bucks

Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
 
[MENTION=73220]1of500[/MENTION] pulled the motor on this salty dog last nite and haven't split the cases yet, however, got the exhaust mani off and peaked into the sides, and the sides of both Pistons look good, the top of the PTO piston and rings look good, the inner side of the head looks good, but I couldn't get the mag piston down far enough, which leads me to believe there's an issue under the mag side piston in the lower end, and that the broken/cracked side piece of jug was just fallout from whatever happened in the lower end.. Like if there was already a tiny bit of corrosion there and the disturbance from the lower end EFFED it up. Either way, looking to split it this week and also pulling the motor out of the HX due to a potential crank seal leak


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Very true... It'll all work out in the end.. I may have more than just these three grey hairs by the end, but I'll figure it out..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Let's play, "GUESS THAT SOUND!" So in the midst of getting the trash and recycling together, I decided to just LOAD the entire inner jugs of this "blown" motor that popped and shut off while riding with fogging oil and then the pb blaster again in the broken head bolt holes last nite. Tonite for the heck of it, just wanted to see if the pto would move better and not actually lock. Well, makes complete rotations but makes this clicking noise.. The motor sounded like it would still crank when in the ski hooked up, but felt locked when I tried spinning by hand.
Out of curiosity, anyone know what this sound is? From what I could see, now that the mag cyl would go all the way down, the inside walls looked ok the position sides looked ok, but the top had a tiny pit in it.
Let me know what you guys think. (This is a video, if it's not working, let me know)https://vimeo.com/141014679


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I don't know. Theres something clicking in there. can still the air compression noise when pistons are going up and down. Haven't had the time to rip into it, I'm just glad that it's looking hopeful that a fuel/carb issue on the mag side didn't fry the piston, which I may have originally thought.
 
[MENTION=73220]1of500[/MENTION] not sure if you got my PM bc it didn't show in my sent items, but Paypal sent. Let me know when you get it.
Thanks for the goods!
 
So, a little update. Yesterday I was able to take this blown engine apart a little more.. I took off the intake cover, starter and the mag housing.. So, considering the exterior of the engine, the inside of the mag housing appears to look pretty new (does this look clean to you?) also the started has a ton of rust but the inside looked good/clean.

So, looks like my issue is something to do with the ROTARY VALVE. I think I found one of the causes of my issue.. Look at this rotary valve. There a bent metal chunk missing out of it..
The clicking you heard in that earlier video, was this rotary shaft gear on the exterior of the motor that the valve sits on( I think there's another brass gear inside as well, this is the outside one) For some reason, it would just stay locked and click as I hand turned the motor. I then sprayed a bit of fogging oil into the lower end, and it freed up that gear. Now it still makes the noise big spins freely. There's obviously something broken in there and I already started to get some of the bolts out from the bottom to split the cases in half.(going in thru bottom bc snapped Head bolts and corrosion is preventing me from getting the head off)..

So, can anyone tell me what caused that chunk to break off? Also, i could that brass gear also play a role(maybe broken)?
Let me know what you guys think
109.jpg
110.jpg
111.jpg
112.jpg
113.jpg
114.jpg
115.jpg
116.jpg
https://vimeo.com/145791859


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Mine looked a little similar when I blew the engine up. Wrist pins came out and that got stuck in the Rv and chunked it up. When this happened, it caused the brass Rv gear to also strip.
 
[MENTION=65612]Luv2Camp[/MENTION] , that's exactly what I was thinking.. Curious to find whatever it was that did this. I still kind of heard something clanking around in there, sounded like a pin or a spring of some sort.. I'll dig into it a little more this week.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Looks like that video is having an issue. Were you guys able to watch it?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top