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Odd throttle performance on "new to us" 2001 GTS, suggestions?

Notagain2

New Member
Greetings and sorry for the TL;DR but I wanted to try and avoid the Q&A wasting of anyone's time,

I am new to the forum and joined, as I would like to start working on two "unique fixer upper opportunity" Seadoos that I bought over the summer for my daughters. I am mechanically inclined but new to 2 stroke Seadoos, and PWC ownership in general. I have all the manuals, and a basic understanding, but this problem would best be addressed with the depth of experience here. If I fail to fix it, I will take it to a shop, but considering the age of the machines you have to find the "right" shop and that is another entire line of research in the Dallas area. I have two Seadoos, a 2001 GTS and a 2003 GTI LE. I am working on restoration of the cosmetics, fixing gel coat chips, seats, plastics, gauges, hoses etc. now. They both run and importantly don't fill with water, and other than the 03 GTI LE running a little richer than necessary, the GTI is mostly useable and fun.

Now to the problem with the 01 GTS, I am stumped. Keep in mind there is a lot going on here, I admit that. This was the first time to take them to the lake and run them and they had been winterized/de-winterized only this year by the previous owner. As far as I know the GTS had not been run this season maybe in over a year, so yep, old gas etc. I know there is a laundry list of possible causes but again, wait for the punch line.

1. GTS was hard to start, just never seamed to pull enough fuel with the choke. Ended up using starter fluid which it started up immediately and after a few seconds would idle fine, no serious concerns. Restarts and idle after it was warmed up were not an issue.

2. Once in the water the throttle response was ever so slightly slow (you had to ease the throttle while still relatively cold), I would have suspected it of running lean but if so just barely (have not done a plug analysis yet).

3. Here is the problem, the GTS will only accelerate to about 15-20 mph (I don't have a speedometer/tach, only a fuel/oil light gauge on this very basic model), this is at full throttle. It runs smooth, no bogging, no coughing, and importantly NO INDICATION of cavitation or jet pump issues. The speed/thrust follow the throttle, just no full (high speed) throttle. The throttle throw feels linear until the last 1/3 of the available actuation then that last 1/3 results in no additional engine RPMs (sound) or thrust/speed.

4. My daughter was a little bummed at this point since between these two very cheap PWCs, this was the one "she picked" so... now Dad has to fix her "slow boat" (calling all dads!) Got on it with her to confirm throttle response, cavitation, etc. Yep, full throttle was not there. Here is the kicker, we decided to ride it around full throttle (guessing about 20 mph, barely on plane) and see if the carb would clean out (treated fuel) or whatm either way needed to see if anything else was wrong to build my repair list. Nothing changed, until we hit a good size wave from a wake boat... we had the throttle fully open when this happened, and as soon as the Seadoo hit the water it revved and we were off to the races. Instant performance, leap forward, almost knocked me off! Importantly though it didn't "sound" like an over rev, but I don't have a tach.

5. This dragster power boost startled my daughter who released the throttle quickly. When we applied full throttle again the GTS would only accelerate to the previously mentioned 20 or so mph. The throttle behaved EXACTLY the same as before hitting the wave. Ok, so now I know the PWC can run, just have no idea as to what the wave had to do with it.

6. Same day, same run, time to repeat the experiment... we drove around until we found another decent size wave (keep in mind that at our slow speed it takes a pretty big boat wake to get it to catch a tiny bit of air and even then really just the nose comes out of the water). Finally found one and as directed she was prepared and held the throttle full open. As soon as the PWC hit the wave we launched, I don't know the speed or the RPMs but it sounded like a good running PWC, we were flying and actually a bit faster (this GTS has a new wear ring installed) than the GTI LE, I'm guessing around 45-50 mph. We ran it like this for maybe 5-10 minutes until we finally needed to slow for some tighter turns that my daughter was uncomfortable with at full tilt. All the while the engine sounded smooth, the jet pump had no feeling or sound of cavitation, everything was good with the world... until we let off the throttle about half way and we again returned to 1/3rd speed.

Notes about the above, no combination of movements of the throttle or choke would result in the above behavior. I tried reseating the spark plug ignition cable boots just in case one plug was intermittent, no difference) The choke engaged while running would kill it as it should, aggressive and rapid throttle agitation would cause the motor to sputter a bit as expected with a carburetor (acceleration pump/pop off valve rapid actuation). And this "hit a wave/bump" behavior was able to be replicated two more times before the wake boat left the area, and I could not longer find a large enough wake to "jump." Basically as long as we held the throttle open while "fixed" it would speed along smoothly and happily.

One thing I could not determine from the above tests was whether the acceleration of the engine was happening while the boat was slightly in the air (unloaded JP) or only when it "hit" the water after (the physical jarring of the water impact). As we were not traveling very fast going into the wake crest I really didn't feel or hear the jet-pump suck in air (fully out of the water) and the engine accelerate rapidly "before" coming back down into the water and just "keeping" it's new RPMs. It "seemed" to be the slight "impact" of hitting the water that caused the burst of speed. But on this point I am unsure, it was happening rapidly and we only got to do it three times before the wave source left the lake.

So, could it be a carburetor issue? Of course, in fact if the acceleration was occurring while the jetpump was unloaded airborne but continued with power once back in the water, I would suspect vacuum issues and general rebuild calibration may solve it as the carb may just not opening enough until the engine sucks in a lot more air at full RPM. However, if the above boost is not happening while the jet pump is unloaded, but when the boat returns to gravity so to speak, then I am stumped... A loose electrical connection would be the more likely explanation but with such a very specific behavior where to start? Could the motor be running on one cylinder until the jolt and then off we go? No idea. Again, looking for guidance from the best source - other people's experience on the forum or maybe a benevolent mechanic/technician.

As far as I can figure, there is no way to test any repairs in "dry dock" so, I have to have a plan before trips to the lake to test and this could get really time consuming since I have no idea where to start. I would obviously like to avoid unnecessary repairs and rebuilds in a shotgun approach to the problem solving... but wish in one hand and .... in the other. Please also know that I am not intending to fully restore these PWCs to new condition, trick out the engines, performance mods etc. These are just for my kids to have fun in the summer on occasional trips to the lake.

Thank you very much for your time and help!

Cheers,

Cash
PS, yes my daughters have both completed the Coast Guard Safety Course and TPWC Licensing requirements and we have insurance, just in case someone had an eyebrow up! ;-)
 
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I would say start with basics. Check compression. 150 is new. 120 and you are into rebuild territory. If compression checks out put fresh gas since it is old and new spark plugs. After that if problem persists I would do a carb rebuild using new mikuni parts. OSD marine will have a carb kit for your ski. There is a nice carb rebuild sticky with easy to follow directions at the top of the 2 stroke seadoo forum page.
 
Since this is a new to you ski, spider is right on, do a compression test to verify you have a good engine, after that... I would use the maintenance manual and do all the maintenance items for the ski. That way you know all of the wearable items are not at fault. make sure you are using the 2 stoke API-TC that it calls for. Verify sparks plugs are correct, they are picky with those. Inspect, inspect, inspect all things.. Pay specials attention to the battery cables and grounds. If you have the gray hose lines, pull a few off at the connectors and see if they have green goo in them, its an issue with our skis. I personally would change them out but it they aren't bad then you don't really need to,. If you have the green goo in the gas lines, replace lines and I would also suggest a carb rebuild.
I would also look over the maintenance manual and see if there are any check you can do on land, to verify operational status, in your free time. Like voltage regulator check, wear ring gap check..etc. Don't need to buy parts or spend money to do those.

As far as the issues at hand. Did you inspect the throttle cable? I would also check for air leaks on the gas line. Did you replace anything in line to the carbs? One word of advise...try to use OEM parts on anything electrical or has a seal. These ski are "once again" picky. If you have a spark checker, check and see if you have a strong spark. Also as you are doing checks make sure you don't run it long out of the water and let it cool, things heat up quickly, even it you have it on the hose (not all moving parts get water on the hose).
 
Thank you both for your replies and suggestions. Throttle cables are all tight and run/secured properly at least as far as I can tell until I get to the carburetor. I am digging into that next. All of the oil and fuel lines were replaced by a PWC shop in Lewisville before I purchased the skis (grey line removals). I am trying to find out if the MPEM was replaced (have the maintenance history but the shop did a poor job of indicating which ski work was done on when they were both in). The MPEM does look newer/different. I will order OEM parts for the carb and start the rebuild now that the season is over. Also going through the electrical. I read that the 717 is timed only via the rotary valve and not the MPEM, so that eliminates that as a "configuration" issue. Still have to look at the rev limiter wire and the stator. Lots to go through I guess.... Will do what I can and if the odd behavior persists may head to a shop I saw recommended on this forum not to far away. Have to replace the leaf springs on the trailer first anyway! Cheers and thank you, Cash
 
Advice you are getting here is pretty much what the maintenance manual says in the troubleshooting section with some added solid advice not in the manual. Spark or fuel is the issue. Spark timing is direct off the crank, not the rotary valve. I highly doubt you have a timing issue. Seems like a fuel thing to me.
 

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You said the MPEM looks different....can you post a pic of it. Lets hope it isn't an aftermarket unit....they are terrible.
 
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I know many people here seem have had issues with aftermarket MPEMs. But, I bought one new and put about 150 hours on it over 5 years without a single issue. I just wanted to share my positive story since they tend to get a lot of negative feedback.
 
I know many people here seem have had issues with aftermarket MPEMs. But, I bought one new and put about 150 hours on it over 5 years without a single issue. I just wanted to share my positive story since they tend to get a lot of negative feedback.
What year and model, did it have Dess
 
It was a 92 XP. It did not have DESS. I know it is a simpler machine which will likely make the aftermarket part less prone to failure. But I have still read a lot of stories to avoid even for 92's.
 
So, ordered a back to oem carb rebuild kit, going to go through the fuel system first and see how that goes. I as it appears most of the engine components between the 2001 GTS and 2003 GLI LE are identical I may try a swap and see if the problem follows a component. Otherwise I will finish my off season upgrades (cosmetics, etc) and then take it to a local service shop. Thank you again, if and when I get something figured out I will report back as this is a very interesting issue that at least is repeatable and specific. Cheers!
 
The first thing I thought about while reading this was the pump. Reducing the load when in the air and rpm's increase sounds like something back there is dragging. I would suggest pulling the pump and checking the condition of the wear ring, oil, and for smoothness when rotating, and radial play, and anti rattle thing. If in doubt, swap out the pump and try it. I got one that had been sitting outside since 2009 and first run the wear ring fell apart.
 
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