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91 GT Gel Coat pics

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Butch 587

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I know it took a couple months but it's finished finally. Was a fun project and my first shot at Gel coating... Definetely some trial and error but the overall job came out fairly decent. I know the pics are kinda crappy but you get the jist of it.. The original hull color was a navy gray so I experimented and came up with a 3 color scheme yellow, blue, green.. I just am waiting for a good weather day to spray the clear, sand and rub it out... :cheers:
 

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Thanks... If anyone want's to try doing Gelcoat for the 1st time I will be glad to offer any help, I made a few mistakes along the way so maybe I can answer a question before someone finds out the hard way too.. :cool:
 
The colors aren't my thing... But it looks like you did a nice job. :cheers:

So... was this a spray on product? Did you take any pictures on the proses? A thread on "How to re-gel your ski" would be a great addition to this board.
 
Thanks Tony, Yes everything is sprayed by yours truely.. Yeah the colors are kinda pastel like. I had never done any paint color mixing before and the colors are white based gelcoat wth coloring agent so it was a basic primary color scheme.. The next one I do I will use gelcoat in netrual base and with the coloring agents, it should have more of a "pop" in brightness.. I have found sellers on ebay with good selections of coloring agents.. West Marine where I got mine only stocks the basic primary coloring ... The gelcoat thread is a great idea I 'll be glad to chime in...
 
So this was basicaly a body make over,(am I correct) by spraying it with a liquid gel coat.and did you have any fine surface cracking,just wondering because my 1994 gtx has an area on top of the footwell which looks like what I'd call fine spider cracking and I was thinking it was the paint.

Scott Bohn..1994 gtx&gts
 
http://www.fibreglass.com/techgel.htm
Scott, their are several products available for spiderweb cracking, try some online research to see what may work the best for you.. I have not tried any of them so I have no specific info:for spiderweb cracks.. If your considering doing a gelcoat redo it's actually not that difficult but is time and energy consuming... I used a gelcoat product from Hi-Bond and had good success. http://hibond.net/
 
Thanks for the info. Butch I 'll keep the spider web cracking on the back burner for now because the bottom side of the hull has some gouges in it that need attation first,so that will be my first gel coat attempt.
I also have another body question,with me being the third owner of these machines and thay seen some heglect like not being covered or keped out of the elements and the shinny luster on areas of the white body is totaly gone.So would a spray can of clear coat put that luster back on the body again.
Any help or suggestions
Scott
 
I had some gouges that needed fixed on my boat. It also had some spider web cracks. I decided to try and deal with them at the same time. I used one of the gel cote repair kits from gelcote.com They are the OEM provdier to BRP.

I used an old school metal bottle opener to break up the old gel coat and scrape it off some. Once you do that, the new stuff will fill in the area and stick to it. Once it is done, it hardens like rock. Sand it down smooth and buff it out and you cant even tell.
 
Scott, try polishing compound and buffing first... If you don't like the results then go to plan B which is sanding with 1000 grit paper then rubbing compound and finish with a good buff job... I think polishing compound and using a buffer will make a nice difference...
 
ok I did polishing compound and buffer thing even buffed on some polish which is making a nice differance but what I had noticed beforehand is when I removed the old registration stickers the surface was like brand new with a clear coat finish which has a higher ridge than the rest of weather beaten surface.question is would it look the same if I would apply some krylon clear coat after the surface is buffed and cleaned
scott:cheers:
 
Scott, try polishing compound and buffing first... If you don't like the results then go to plan B which is sanding with 1000 grit paper then rubbing compound and finish with a good buff job... I think polishing compound and using a buffer will make a nice difference...

I use the pro 3M heavy cut compound and a buffer...gotta do 2-3 times to really cut into it and knock the oxidation down. Then get some polish and do it twice.

I've polished some pretty big turds shiney after a few hours work.
 
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