Trouble shooting 04 rxp check engine light with no codes
- Thread starter Trev09
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Michael211_2000
New Member
I may be wrong on this, but I don't think a bad oil pressure switch sensor would take 5-10 mins to trigger the check engine light and send you into limp mode. How was the engine sounding/running for that 5-10 minutes before the light came on? Have you checked your engine oil level? When was the oil filter last changed? It might be worth checking all your ground wires (on the front of the engine) for corrosion. Then you might have to test it out some, hook up waterhose to flush port and run it (no longer than about 5 minutes) on the trailer and see if the light comes on again... leave the seat off so you can better hear the engine. If no light comes on that way after a few 5 minute runs then go put the hull in water again and try riding it close to boat launch for awhile and see if the problem resurfaces again.
Very odd that the light came on with no codes though. Makes me think a pure electrical problem (hence my suggestion to check your ground leads for any corrosion).
- Michael
Very odd that the light came on with no codes though. Makes me think a pure electrical problem (hence my suggestion to check your ground leads for any corrosion).
- Michael
The engine before was running fine and quick. I just checked oil level its about halfway up the dipstick. Should it only be the indented part of the dipstick? I just bought the ski im not sure when the oil filter or oil was last changed but the ski has almost 60 hours on it so im sure it needs to be serviced. all ground wires checked out fine. Im going to run some more test runs later on the trailer could it have been overheating then? coolant is low
Michael211_2000
New Member
Engine oil level should be right in the middle of the bend in the dipstick. Why BRP doesn't just stamp a mark on the dipstick I have NO idea, but according to the owner's manual the correct full level is right in the middle of the bend in the dipstick. Overfull (top of the bend) causes oil blow-by and drop in top RPM's and power, below the bend but on the stick is just low... off the end of the stick is VERY low.
Hey I presume yours is Supercharged? Can you also verify the supercharger is working? With the seat off and the engine running on a waterhose, put your hand on the supercharger to carb air hose and squeeze it while giving it some throttle... you should feel air pressure building up in the hose as the supercharger makes boost. If you don't feel the hose trying to inflate under your grip then your supercharger may have lost it's washers (have the supercharger clutch washers ever been changed out to steel clutch washers?????). The OEM cermaic washers can break and fall apart down into the engine then clog the oil intake screens causing loss of oil pressure among other nasty expensive thingies.... :-(
- Michael
Hey I presume yours is Supercharged? Can you also verify the supercharger is working? With the seat off and the engine running on a waterhose, put your hand on the supercharger to carb air hose and squeeze it while giving it some throttle... you should feel air pressure building up in the hose as the supercharger makes boost. If you don't feel the hose trying to inflate under your grip then your supercharger may have lost it's washers (have the supercharger clutch washers ever been changed out to steel clutch washers?????). The OEM cermaic washers can break and fall apart down into the engine then clog the oil intake screens causing loss of oil pressure among other nasty expensive thingies.... :-(
- Michael
Michael211_2000
New Member
ps. If you don't know when the oil and filter were last changed then CHANGE THEM! Spark plugs too! These are important items you don't want to be guessing about. Also if Supercharged then your model originally had ceramic Supercharger clutch washers and they are prone to cracking and breaking apart falling down inside of the engine and clogging up the oil pump intake screens... very bad deal that! Most people try to replace those ceramic washers with upgraded steel washers just ASAP (the steel washers are special, we're not talking hardware store washers here btw!). If you don't know if they've been changed out then you really need to find out ASAP. Note: Superchargers should be completely rebuilt every 100 hours of operation.... you have 40 more hours to go.
- Michael
- Michael
Michael211_2000
New Member
ps again: Engine oil and filter and spark plugs should be changed at least annually. Oil and oil filter are cheap compared to a replacement engine. Spark plugs can strand you out on the water so best to just change them when you do the oil and keep a fresh new set in the storage compartment... for some reason I do not completely understand these supercharged engines are hard on spark plugs. Stabalize your fuel with Stabil (marine formula recommended) or SeaFoam with every fillup year round and you won't have fuel system problems.
- Michael
- Michael
Michael211_2000
New Member
AND since you don't know it's maintenance history you should go ahead and change your coolant while you're doing all the other stuff. Coolant is only good for 2-3 years, then it needs to be drained and replaced with a good quality PWC coolant (local ATV or watercraft store should have it, as well as the BRP 4-TEC engine oil and filter). I would do it ALL before running this engine again, since you don't know when any of this was last changed Trev.
The coolant drain plug is in the middle of the back-end of the ride plate, there is a recessed hex-head plug there when you take it out all the coolant will drain out thru the back of the ride plate (so have a bucket or pan ready!). Replace the plug, refill with PWC coolant, start and run engine a few minutes, then check coolant level again it should be low as air pockets work their way out of the system... top off again and should be good to go!
- Michael
The oil is way over the bend i wonder if this could be the problem? yea i could hear the supercharger working yesterday i will make sure i test that later once hooked up. I dont think the washer have ever been changed either yea i think im going to take it into service hopefully this week
ski-d00
Well-Known Member
to get the codes, you have to check it while it is happening, not later. once you shut it off, the codes won't come up by pressing set 5 times unless it is still current.
does sound like oil pressure switch and they do seem to false trigger after 5 minutes or so of running time. it may go away 5 minutes later and not happen again all day. they are flaky when they go bad...
The rear oil pressure switch monitors the actually liquid oil pressure of the engine that we are all familiar with in all 4 stroke engines. If you get an OIL warning on your display and the RPMs drop to 2500. It means either your engine has low oil pressure or your rear oil pressure switch has failed. I've changed lots of rear switches and have yet to see an actual oil pump failure but it should be checked to make sure the pressure is adequate using a gauge because this is a serious situation. (I have seen someone forget to put oil back in after an oil change and this warning went off).
The front oil pressure switch monitors the air pressure in the lower crankcase and entire sealed oil system. This works in conjunction with the TOPS valve that it is located by and prevents too much pressure from building in the oil system area. Remember, the pistons moving downward also create air pressure on the bottom side of the piston. The failure mode of the front oil pressure switch is a check engine light and limited to 5000 RPMs with a P1202 engine code.
does sound like oil pressure switch and they do seem to false trigger after 5 minutes or so of running time. it may go away 5 minutes later and not happen again all day. they are flaky when they go bad...
The rear oil pressure switch monitors the actually liquid oil pressure of the engine that we are all familiar with in all 4 stroke engines. If you get an OIL warning on your display and the RPMs drop to 2500. It means either your engine has low oil pressure or your rear oil pressure switch has failed. I've changed lots of rear switches and have yet to see an actual oil pump failure but it should be checked to make sure the pressure is adequate using a gauge because this is a serious situation. (I have seen someone forget to put oil back in after an oil change and this warning went off).
The front oil pressure switch monitors the air pressure in the lower crankcase and entire sealed oil system. This works in conjunction with the TOPS valve that it is located by and prevents too much pressure from building in the oil system area. Remember, the pistons moving downward also create air pressure on the bottom side of the piston. The failure mode of the front oil pressure switch is a check engine light and limited to 5000 RPMs with a P1202 engine code.
Michael211_2000
New Member
Oil level is OVER the bend? Wow! That's wayyy overfull.... it could well be causing too much pressure in the crankcase, setting off that forward sensor Ski-d00 talked about after a few minutes of run time. Did you turn it off after the check engine light came on and before checking for codes as Ski-d00 mentioned? That could explain the lack of codes then, the over-pressure event would have subsided shortly after shutting it down so the condition no longer existed if you then turned it back on and checked for codes. Makes sense to me!
ps. The oil on the stick isn't milky or anything right? It's oil, not oil + water. It's quite possible that the last time someone changed the oil they asked the dealer how many quarts it took and the dealer sold them 5 quarts of 4TEC engine oil (4.6 quarts is actual full capacity with absolutely NO oil in the crankcase), they sucked the oil out themselves (only actually sucking ~3 quarts out) then put the full 5 quarts back in. That would get it where you are seeing it I bet! If you don't do the "drown mode crank then suck more oil out then drown mode crank then suck more oil out" then you won't get the full ~4.6 quarts out of the engine. Just sticking a suction tube down the dipstick and sucking till no more oil comes out won't but ~3 quarts out, there's still another ~1.5 or so quarts left in there and if you then dump 5 full quarts in it'll be majorly overfull.
- Michael
Michael211_2000
New Member
Okie-dokie that's really odd then takes me back to the electrical problem possibility. But you definitely need to correct the oil level before doing any more testing that's nuts for it to be over the bend in the dipstick!
- Michael
Michael211_2000
New Member
Did you Google it yet? Google "p0264 SeaDoo" and it comes up with some links to diagnostic procedures for this code. For P0264 it says "Causes: Damaged Injector, damaged circuit wires, damaged connector or damaged ECM output pins". But it also says that this fault code does not activate Limp mode and is only detected while the engine is actually running. Did you start your engine to get this code?
I'm still thinking there is an electrical problem going on in your machine. Probably a corroded wire or cable or an outright shorted wire somewhere. :-(
- Michael
Yes i also noticed that the 2nd injector is not the same as the other two im guessing it has been replaced and with the wrong one! checked all of the pins and connectors everything looks good in that area. Yes hooked up the hose and started right up no problem pulled the code right away
Michael211_2000
New Member
Now THAT is interesting! Starting to sound like you bought a basketcase there Trev. Hope you got it at a very low price....
When did you buy it? Did you pay cash or check?
Sounds like the previous owner was either clueless or just didn't care and only wanted to make it run for a minute on the trailer so they could unload the machine onto... you, actually. :-(
- Michael
When did you buy it? Did you pay cash or check?
Sounds like the previous owner was either clueless or just didn't care and only wanted to make it run for a minute on the trailer so they could unload the machine onto... you, actually. :-(
- Michael
Michael211_2000
New Member
Well, then back to a probable electrical problem somewhere... something's not making good contact causing these codes (and "ghost" codes) to get triggered. Start unbolting the ground cables from the front of the engine and use a dremel tool with rotary wire brush to clean the terminals and the surface of the block where the terminals are bolted to it (use a dab of marine grease under the terminals before you bolt them back to the engine). Check the battery cables for any signs of corrosion inside the cables (brittle stiffness in the cables or white powder coming out the ends). Look for any places where wires could be rubbing against metal. This just isn't going to be fun to figure out unfortunately.
- Michael
- Michael
Michael211_2000
New Member
I only use the BRP 4TEC oil for Supercharged engines. It's expensive, but nothing compared to the cost of a ruined supercharger. I believe it's also a synthetic blend of oil so it's better for the engine overall. It's called "XPS 4 Stroke Temps Synthetic Blend Oil summer grade".
- Michael
Michael211_2000
New Member
It could be anything electrical, Trev. You may just have to bite the bullet and take it to a SeaDoo dealership to find the fault (if they even can). I'm out of ideas. :-(
- Michael
- Michael
trapperjack1
Member
I have a 215 charger with 14 hours on it completly rebuilt with yes steel washers
350.00, parts alone are 300.00
paid 596.00 for the job
350.00, parts alone are 300.00
paid 596.00 for the job
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