The last fitting on the bottom is only needed if an old one ripped up the fiberglass, that is the repair part that you glue in.
I have lots of good used ones available.
I have lots of good used ones available.
-
This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.
RESTO My semi resto 96 XP project
- Thread starter suke
- Start date
- Status
This one and the protection hose, you don't need the thru hull adapter, that will just be a waste of cash right now. Personally, the carbon set up is just fine and works fine. You'll need to take the set-up off now to at least make it serviceable any way, the C clip is probably like $3 and the O-rings are dirt cheap. Also if your drive shaft is not as smooth as a babies bottom the bearings and seals will get eaten up, so you could be into a drive shaft as well. I have two brand new ones with like 1 hour run time and I probably won't be putting one on my XP. I understand that you want to make sure the ski won't sink. But if that bearing locks up you'll shred the plastic thru hull adapter that is in there now and you'll have to deal with that, as well as you ski still sinking. Are there benefits to the aluminum seal carrier, hole shot is the biggest advantage, there is no chance for the air to burp when you paste the throttle. When I put them in my Speedster it was a completely different boat--ridiculously different a major, major improvement, but they got way to hot for my liking. I also don't want to have to deal with a sinking boat, a little more to lose then a ski taking a drink. I swam my ski to the edge of the grass, my boat yeah that ain't gonna happen!
The carbon set up to put it bluntly, is azzhole proof, virtually maintenance free, Bombardier did a nice job with it for that reason alone.
http://osdparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_free_shipping_info&cPath=2&products_id=1
The carbon set up to put it bluntly, is azzhole proof, virtually maintenance free, Bombardier did a nice job with it for that reason alone.
http://osdparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_free_shipping_info&cPath=2&products_id=1
suke
Well-Known Member
Gotcha......ok so maybe for now I'll just focus on getting my ski back together and running before adding anything else. Then maybe after this next season I'll look into it if I see any issues. My biggest focus should be getting the prop off then. Right now I have my pump in the freezer since heat didn't do a damn thing to help break the prop free. Then going to build a jig that I can set the pump in and give it hell with a 5ft breaker bar. I'm sure my dealer would charge me $100 just to remove the prop. Which is dumb.
Opformark
New Member
I was in your shoes 2 years ago with my GSX. Thinking there was no way that the factory design would hold water out. Last thing I wanted to do was put my fully restored GSX in the water and have a "gusher" at the carbon seal. However that's exactly what I nervously did. The 97 has Oring's in the stainless collar and a c-clip that holds it against the carbon ring. Held in place by the pressure from the bellows boot. Does it seem tight enough? No not as tight as I thought it should but it is. The first day I was popping the seat open and checking every few hours, let it sit at the dock overnight and didn't sleep a wink. Checked next day and it was as dry inside as before I dropped it in the water. The water pressure I think pushes the carbon seal tight against the collar. I do like the idea of the stainless clip holding the collar much more than the orings on the 96, but I'm not sure if it's as easy as replacing the rubber oring closest to the motor with the c-clip or not. My .02.
Just make sure to get the C clip (272000135). With the stainless hub being able to slide on the drive shaft you just push in towards the bellow to collapse it then use your other hand to clip the c clip on, then slide the hub back to cover the c clip. It can be difficult at first but it will hold back the Hoover Dam. Remember, your one hose from popping off, blowing a hole in a hose etc.. from filling your hull, just keep that in mind! After I almost sunk my 96 about 5 miles from the dock all I could do was pop the o-ring back in there and ride back after tipping it over on land to drain it out. I called UMI and they told me about the C clip so I hit the dealer on the way home and next weekend I was back out there, got one day of hard riding under me and I never looked back. Think Positive!!!!!!!!!!
Jetskigoodies
Well-Known Member
They all have that carbon ring setup after 95, if it was a big issue they would have had a recall. Works great, but sometimes the carbon ring needs to be replaced after it wears or gets a chip in it. When i first got my 96 xp I would turn it off and moor it and I could hear a drip inside the hull, i found it was coming right from the seal area. I didnt mind though because I have a rule bilge pump and if you leave the key on it, even when off once the water level raises in the hull it automatically kicks on. I took it off the next day, the carbon had a groove in it. I replaced it and never had a problem since. Mine was updated to the c clip though, and everyone we do gets the upgraded clip put on.
suke
Well-Known Member
Been outta town for the last week or so. Finally getting back to it. I've given up getting the prop off, and called my local dealer. They said they'll pop it off for $10-15. DAYUM!!!!! Had I known that I wouldn't even of bought the tool and attempted it. So far my dealer has been 2 for 2 with good customer service. Still don't have my tank in yet though. Called them about that today, as well as how much it would cost to get the prop off. They said just swing on by during lunch one day and they'll get it taken care of.
So some day this week I'll run it by so I can get to putting this back together. Figured today I'd go ahead and paint the steering nozzle. Painted this in the same epoxy paint I did the intake.
It's all done and hanging in the garage drying.
So some day this week I'll run it by so I can get to putting this back together. Figured today I'd go ahead and paint the steering nozzle. Painted this in the same epoxy paint I did the intake.
It's all done and hanging in the garage drying.
Looks great--you'll never notice the fingerprint from where you sit on the ski
But yes that would drive me batty.
suke
Well-Known Member
Took the pump by the shop during lunch to see if they could get the prop off. They couldn't, either. I watched him fight with it for a little while. Then he said he can pretty much guarantee he can get it off but it'll break the shaft. If I was just changing the wear ring there really isn't a need to add more parts to my project.
So he was able to get the wear ring out with a flared tool and a hammer banging from the rear side after quite a few minutes of whacking on it. Still only charged me $15 and I gave the tech $5 for his trouble. Most shops would have charged me a full hour and I woulda walked outta there with a $75+ bill. So the shop is happy to have the quick money, tech was happy to get a tip, and I'm happy I can now get a new wear ring in and get this thing back together.
When it comes time for new bearings I'll weld up a jig and break the shaft. For now I just don't see a reason to for a wear ring.
Now on to the prop......I've never dealt with pitching and prop numbers. Mine is 17-26......uhhhhhh that seems HELLA high compared to what I've seen. WTF is the point of a prop pitched that high? Top speed?
So he was able to get the wear ring out with a flared tool and a hammer banging from the rear side after quite a few minutes of whacking on it. Still only charged me $15 and I gave the tech $5 for his trouble. Most shops would have charged me a full hour and I woulda walked outta there with a $75+ bill. So the shop is happy to have the quick money, tech was happy to get a tip, and I'm happy I can now get a new wear ring in and get this thing back together.
When it comes time for new bearings I'll weld up a jig and break the shaft. For now I just don't see a reason to for a wear ring.
Now on to the prop......I've never dealt with pitching and prop numbers. Mine is 17-26......uhhhhhh that seems HELLA high compared to what I've seen. WTF is the point of a prop pitched that high? Top speed?
suke
Well-Known Member
So finally had a spare few mins to work on the ski. Cleaned up the edges of the prop a little bit, put in the wear ring, and pump oil.
The wear ring took a bit of persuasion to go in. Seemed like I was really hammering on it and it wasn't going anywhere. Then finally all the sudden WHAM it went down the rest of the way. It's hella tight on the prop. Like tighter than a virgin on prom night....tight. I can spin it with my hand, and if I look through the pump I can see light on all parts of the prop. So it appears there's a little bit of clearance. Read the service manual and it says absolutely nothing about being too tight, just being too loose. It's not so tight it's making any groove in the wear ring or anything. Not much to really take pics of, but took one of the pump.
The wear ring took a bit of persuasion to go in. Seemed like I was really hammering on it and it wasn't going anywhere. Then finally all the sudden WHAM it went down the rest of the way. It's hella tight on the prop. Like tighter than a virgin on prom night....tight. I can spin it with my hand, and if I look through the pump I can see light on all parts of the prop. So it appears there's a little bit of clearance. Read the service manual and it says absolutely nothing about being too tight, just being too loose. It's not so tight it's making any groove in the wear ring or anything. Not much to really take pics of, but took one of the pump.
I like a tight wear ring myself. Looks like you have a Solas impeller there. 17/26 is very tall as you said. It won't make you go faster because the engine will be overloaded. The normal sweet spot for the Solas is their XO which is 16.5/23.5
suke
Well-Known Member
Yeah no way that prop is coming off, so if I wanted to change the impeller I'd have to get a new pump.
Jetskigoodies
Well-Known Member
Right now, our dealerships wont do any watercraft stuff until march, we need a couple tanks. Looking good though suke
suke
Well-Known Member
Makes sense. I bet they have a ton of snowmobile stuff to do.
suke
Well-Known Member
Next weekend my wife is heading to Orlando. So I'll have all weekend to work on the ski. I'll be spending every waking second working on the ski. My hope is to basically get it 100% assembled. Not sure if I can, but I'll try. I most likely won't sleep but a few hours just to get more work done. Otherwise it'll be warm and not ready. I want to water test it( on the trailer) to make sure if there are any issues I can get them taken care of before it gets warm.
WOOT! Gas tank came in. Finally.
Nice!!!!!!!!!!! I'm sure you counting the minutes until garage time.
suke
Well-Known Member
Ended up bringing it inside and watching TV and pulling out the staples. Hour or so later and all are out. The blacktip cover looks to have a TON of extra material. Which I suppose is a good thing. Should be interesting trying to put one of these on. Never done it before. I put on vinyl and never did that before.....can't be any worse.
- Status
