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RESTO My semi resto 96 XP project

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suke said:
I picked up a blacktip cover during black friday. I've been stalking forums, ebay, craigslist, etc to try and find a stock looking cover. I about resorted to getting yellow vinyl and painting on the SeaDoo logo. I just don't know how well that would have worked, and for $39 shipped I figured it was best case scenario just to buy a cover.

I'm not doing any engine work, guess that's why I put "semi" resto. lol
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Stalk no further!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I found it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

NOS YELLOW SEAT COVER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! On Ebay right now, all you need it a stencil. That price is actually MSRP, so they are not trying to gouge you.

Your new total $2,480.95 :drool5:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1997-1998-S..._Watercraft_Parts&hash=item1e72dfff53&vxp=mtr

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Hah! No way I've got all I need. I actually really dig the blacktip cover.

You may not have spent as much and you completely rebuilt the motor. I haven't even touched the motor. Hopefully it's as good as it looks when looking through the exhaust ports.
 
It's only money and ya can't spend it when your gone. You rode you ski before the tear down right? If it was fine then it will be fine now. I still love those graphics they look awesome!
 
I took I out once and it didn't go well at all. Had to feather the throttle to get it up on plane. Then found out my "new" wear ring was completely toast. So I'm guessing that was the problem. Either that or fuel. I've rebuilt the carbs, replaced all fuel lines, and replaced the fuel selector. As well as replacing the wear ring. Compression was spot on in both holes and it looks like it has a fresh top end. Pistons and rings look brand new and can still see the cross hatch marks on the cylinder walls.
 
Yup.....so new gas tank for me. Called BRP and the recall has not been done. Now to see how good my local dealer is. They've all but one closed down. Which sucks cause I've never dealt with them before. Hoping they'll just let me bring in my old tank. I DO NOT want to put my hull on a trailer and haul it an hour away just so they can put the tank in it. I'd rather just bring them my old tank.
 
WOOT! Went by the dealership during lunch today. After explaining my predicament and showing them pictures of what I had done. They agreed to order me a new tank and just have me turn in the old tank!! I REALLY didn't wanna put my pristine hull with super expensive graphics on a trailer and drive it an hour away on a highway just so they could put a tank in. THEN risk.......well anything. Scuffing my ski somehow, scratching the graphics, something happening on the WAY to the dealer. The many host of things that could have gone wrong had I been forced to bring it in. Lets hope it isn't back ordered or something like that and I get it pretty quick. Was planning on getting the motor back in this weekend.

Anyone know if I can get the tank in through the front opening?
 
i'm 99% sure it comes out thru the front. but wait for some1 to confirm that, I took mine out when the motor was out but I still think I slipped it out thru the front, my motor had to come out since I was putting in the 13 gallon tank (which is an option for you, if your motor is out) I absolutely love the larger tank. and kudo's to tonka for shipping one down to me :)
 
Spimothy Leary said:
i'm 99% sure it comes out thru the front. but wait for some1 to confirm that, I took mine out when the motor was out but I still think I slipped it out thru the front, my motor had to come out since I was putting in the 13 gallon tank (which is an option for you, if your motor is out) I absolutely love the larger tank. and kudo's to tonka for shipping one down to me :)
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I recall trying to take it out the front, but also recall trying to take it out the back. For the life of me can't remember which way I succeeded. lol Out the back makes life more difficult since my motor will be back in. Out/In the front would be ideal.
 
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You, i was already all engined up by the time I got my tank and she slid right in. Just put it in then pull it as far forward as you can and put the fuel baffle in then slide it back and hook up the rest. You can even do the removal and install with the oil tank still in.

It took 4 days for my tank to come in. Glad your dealer worked with you.:thumbsup:
 
Starting to get everything cleaned up to go back in.

Appears someone has been in here before.
108.jpg

Looks clean in there though.
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Pretty dirty
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Much cleaner
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Gonna strip this and repaint it. It appears someone did a very poor paint job on it.
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Exhaust all cleaned up ready to go back in. Waiting on the copper washer to come in.
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Paint stripper at work.
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Most likely won't get all the paint off. After this next round I'll sand it smooth, then scuff it, then paint it.

The new hood with the new hood cover in place.
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I don't have an XP, but am watching your thread just because I like you attention to detail and that your hard work deserves my attention! It's going to be a sweet ride!:thumbsup:
 
I may have a ton of other stuff as well. Once I get my ski back together I'll go through all the parts I've collected that I don't need.
 
So I spent about 6 hours today working on the ski and got NOTHING done. Ever have one of those days where nothing goes your way? Yeah today was one of those days.

Had a buddy come over to help me. Couldn't get the prop off. Tried heat....more heat....and more heat. Put the pump in a vice with breaker bar....didn't budge. Used a pipe for more leverage....did nothing. So more heat then remounted my vice to make it even stronger and got a pipe on the end of the breaker bar........nothing. Busted out my impact capable of 600 ft lbs.....nothing. Only thing that managed to happen was now my prop tool is one piece with my 21mm socket. It's forever stuck.


So gave up on that it's not coming out. Going to see what my local dealer will charge me to get it off.

On to putting the motor back in. Start gathering the pieces of the drive shaft and it becomes very apparent there's no way that setup can keep out water. Look at the parts diagram and looks like there is a rubber bushing between the carbon ring and whatever that metal flange is......we guess. So nope motor can't even go back in. So 6 hours in the garage and nothing got done. Dammit!!
 
What are you missing? You should be able to drop the engine back in align it and just add what ever you want later?

2309_20S9603.gif
 
Part number 2. Although I don't recall seeing part 7 either. WTF?

What is 14? Is that the part attached to the hull?


Maybe I should get pics of everything I have tomorrow and post em. Make sure I don't order something I don't need. We put everything in order and the metal collar against the carbon ring doesn't seem to be enough to keep water out.
 
Part number 8 is on there really good. Never took it off and it doesn't budge. Does that mean part 2 is there keeping it from moving?
 
#14 is the thru hull adapter. Pull the stainless ring #8 towards the impeller end of the shaft. In side there are 2 o-rings (#2) and # 7 is either a o-ring OR a stainless C clip. Once you pop that you can do what ever you like on re assembly as that can all be put together with the engine in.
 
That stainless ring won't budge. I can see a rubber gasket down in there. I took some pics of what I have.

This is what I have
179.jpg


I have the clamps, they're just not on there right now. Also I have the rubber boot on the engine side but let that on the motor. But that's all I have on the pump side. The carbon ring isn't tight on the shaft either. Is that all normal?

Can see the rubber seal in there
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Dark ring against the stainless steel ring led me to believe I'm missing something.
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However I have no idea. That's all that came off when I took if off. Is that right?

I really don't want to move that stainless steel ring as it's fixed on there VERY well and I don't want to create more work or break anything.
 
I'd make sure you can remove it so if you need to service it in the future you can. If not you'll need to pull the engine to do so. Hose it down with wd or something or just use a torch and melt the O-rings out of it. The ring seal the stainless to the shaft. Remember try and push it towards the long end if the shaft. The rings are probably suck to the shaft. And the carbon ring doesn't touch the shaft, just rubs the stainless piece you can't get off.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2
 
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