RESTO My semi resto 96 XP project

[suke]

Had to pull the steering off tonight as it wasn't put on right. Found out one of the steering parts was put on backwards even before I got to it. I pulled it off all in one piece so it went back on the same way. Until I realized something wan't quite right when looking at the parts diagram.

So she sits pretty much looking the same just the handlebar cover is off right now. Did very little work yesterday since I was so beat. Put the exhaust elbow on......that's pretty much about it. HAH!

 

[Dacapster]

Looks great, Im going for mechanical first and get a season out of it then next year wet sand and such....

 

[suke]

fortunately mechanically it was sound. That's really what I wanted to get when I got this ski. Something that already ran without issue. Although I found out the "new wear ring" wasn't exactly new anymore. So first try out on the water kinda sucked. Compression was spot on, and looked to have a fresh top end.

 

[suke]

Something keeps driving me nuts and not quite sure if I should just replace it, or am I over analyzing it.

The 'Hose Protector' as it's called, accordion boot over the driveshaft is what it looks like, doesn't seem to force the carbon ring up against the metal ring hard enough. There was a little gap even. So I pushed it tight up against it and there still appears to be plenty of the plastic through hull fitting to clamp the boot down to. Would replacing that boot fix it? Some sources say the newer boots aren't as firm as the older boots.

Figure if I should just replace it I better do it now before I get too deep and have to take too many things apart.

 

[racerxxx]

Something keeps driving me nuts and not quite sure if I should just replace it, or am I over analyzing it.

The 'Hose Protector' as it's called, accordion boot over the driveshaft is what it looks like, doesn't seem to force the carbon ring up against the metal ring hard enough. There was a little gap even. So I pushed it tight up against it and there still appears to be plenty of the plastic through hull fitting to clamp the boot down to. Would replacing that boot fix it? Some sources say the newer boots aren't as firm as the older boots.

Figure if I should just replace it I better do it now before I get too deep and have to take too many things apart.

Did you grease the PTO zerk fitting? Make sure the PTO boot is clamped to the PTO and the shaft.

 

[suke]

Did you grease the PTO zerk fitting? Make sure the PTO boot is clamped to the PTO and the shaft.

Good point, I haven't done that yet. It's on my to-do list. Would that really make that much of a difference? It's about 1/4" I'd say gap.

 

[Opformark]

I'd suggest that you inspect that you have the right driveshaft as there are many of the same length, but different positions of where the clip lock on the shaft that holds that stainless collar that rides against the carbon seal. Don't ask me how I know

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[Spimothy Leary]

I try to avoid Carolina blue as much as possible. Prolly going to go with black/yellow numbers.

i don't care what color you do, all i'm thinking about is ribeye

 

[suke]

I'd suggest that you inspect that you have the right driveshaft as there are many of the same length, but different positions of where the clip lock on the shaft that holds that stainless collar that rides against the carbon seal. Don't ask me how I know

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It's the original shaft that came out. Didn't get a new one. So it's the stock one that came with it.

 

[Opformark]

Then yes I'd get the new boot then. They can't be too expensive can they? Maybe ask Minnetonka4me to measure a good used one and see how it compares. I'm sure he'd hook you up for a fair price.

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[kicker]

Good point, I haven't done that yet. It's on my to-do list. Would that really make that much of a difference? It's about 1/4" I'd say gap.

As racer said, if that boot has not been greased for a while it will easily move a 1/4 inch and hit that carbon ring.

 

[racerxxx]

Don't forget you can slide the accordion boot towards the PTO too, like 1/8" to 3/16" then a few pumps to fill the boot and your cherry.

As far as the XP shaft, it SHOULD be a single groove shaft so you can't put it in the wrong groove, unlike other three groovers.

 

[suke]

As racer said, if that boot has not been greased for a while it will easily move a 1/4 inch and hit that carbon ring.

Yeah I'll try that first. New boot is like $17 from Seadoo source.

 

[suke]

Don't forget you can slide the accordion boot towards the PTO too, like 1/8" to 3/16" then a few pumps to fill the boot and your cherry.

As far as the XP shaft, it SHOULD be a single groove shaft so you can't put it in the wrong groove, unlike other three groovers.

Yeah that's what I did(slid accordion boot to PTO). I haven't touched the metal ring. I left it in place since it looked to be in good shape. No sense in taking it off and creating more work for myself.

Was curious if it was ok to slide the accordion boot towards the PTO? Or if it should just be replaced. Sounds like I need to try the grease first.

 

[suke]

oh no no no no no no!!!!! I'm in trouble. One of the carb bolts stripped out on the motor. So more or less carb mount stripped out. Tightened it down and thought I'll give it just one more snug. Tight tight tight pop.......loose! SHIT!!!!!!!!! I should have left it be. I don't have a torque wrench that does lb in so I was guesstimating using my torque wrench in lb ft. Guess I guesstimated too high.

What do I do now? Really don't want to drill the carb bolt hole out to go to the next size bolt as well as drill out and tap the motor. Is that what I'm going to have to do?



On the up side I greased the PTO and it moved the shaft SUBSTANTIALLY. To the point it's tight against the accordion boot. Still feel like it's some kind of black magic that thing doesn't leak. I can wiggle the black piece( carbon ring?) against the metal ring. It's tight against it, but you can still move it up and down on the shaft(Not back and forth of course).

 

[suke]

Helicoil my best bet? The bolt itself is perfectly fine. Mount is what stripped out on the motor. Anyone know what size that bolt is? Dammit and this was going so smooth too.

 

[CReynoldsMIZ]

Here's what I would do. Take the carbs off, and look down in the threads where that bolt goes down. If there are more threads near the end of the hole, you may be able to get a longer bolt so you can just grab the threads down futher in the mount. I stripped the threads in the hole where one of my rave valve bolts go down, and I went to lowes and found a bolt about 3/8" longer and now it grips fine.

 

[suke]

Here's what I would do. Take the carbs off, and look down in the threads where that bolt goes down. If there are more threads near the end of the hole, you may be able to get a longer bolt so you can just grab the threads down futher in the mount. I stripped the threads in the hole where one of my rave valve bolts go down, and I went to lowes and found a bolt about 3/8" longer and now it grips fine.

That would definitely be easier. Yeah I'll take a look.

 

[racerxxx]

That would definitely be easier. Yeah I'll take a look.

I'd pull the RV cover and do the helicoil OFF the engine. This is where the ball of yarn starts to unwind. You need to clip it NOW and remove the cover so the OOPS, I didn't mean to drill all the way through or OOPS, I didn't mean for those chips to get into the bottom end. You could buy a used RV cover but I'd prefer the one that came off the engine. And go to Harbor freight and blow the $20 on a inch/LBS. torque wrench

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-quarter-inch-drive-click-type-torque-wrench-2696.html

 

[CReynoldsMIZ]

I'd pull the RV cover and do the helicoil OFF the engine. This is where the ball of yarn starts to unwind. You need to clip it NOW and remove the cover so the OOPS, I didn't mean to drill all the way through or OOPS, I didn't mean for those chips to get into the bottom end. You could buy a used RV cover but I'd prefer the one that came off the engine. And go to Harbor freight and blow the $20 on a inch/LBS. torque wrench

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-quarter-inch-drive-click-type-torque-wrench-2696.html

Dan, do you actually trust those wrenches with your machines? I just couldnt get myself to buy one, I bought this one...
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-3-8-...p-00913918000P?prdNo=5&blockNo=5&blockType=G5 . Of course I got it on sale tho for 79.99. It shows Ft Lbs, Inch Lbs, and Newton whatever that is...

 

[suke]

Those bolt holes go all the way through into the motor? Do I need any gaskets if I pull the RV cover?

 

[racerxxx]

Why not, it's inch lbs. and it fits nicer in tight places, uses smaller sockets. I use it on the mag housing and cover (read as non important hardware). The carb bolts are 15 ft/lbs, that's like hand tightening--literally. My 1/2 inch ft/lb starts at 20 ft/lbs, I'm not going to over torque those poor carb bolts and snap a flange. I did dial back to 15 ft/lb on my 1/2" craftsman to torque my carb bolts(still not the right way to do it). And I'm sure some 12 year old in China, Indonesia, Taiwan, or Cambodia is getting paid jack per month is pumping out torque wrenches for Craftsman and Harbor. A torque wrench is as good as it's calibration, what happens if you drop it buy accident or leave it set and walk away? We're all taking it for granted that it's calibrated properly. Just never leave any torque wrench set for a specific torque. I always torque a fastener and immediately before I set it down I set it back to zero. When I torque a fastener in stages, I always release the wrench to zero then go to the next stage. So say I was to torque to 100 ft/lbs in stages, I'd go 0-25-0-50-0-75-0-100-0, you never keep climbing( at least that's what the old man always told me). And I only use clicker type wrenches.

 

[racerxxx]

Those bolt holes go all the way through into the motor? Do I need any gaskets if I pull the RV cover?

No sir they are blind holes. Carb gaskets and you should probably replace the R/V cover o-ring.

Thanks Goolge

 

[suke]

I have the Carb gaskets already. Got new ones a while back. So if they don't go through couldn't I just helicoil it in place? Especially if I mark how far to drill? I'm typically careful. Just a stupid mistake tonight. That way I don't have to open a bigger can of worms.

 

[racerxxx]

I don't think there is enough room. The drill has to be perfectly straight. I wouldn't chance it. If you take the carbs off, rotate the PTO so that you can see the rotary valve in one of the ports (blocking it), stuff a clean paper towel in the other port, remove the small oil lines (the metal retainers should slide up the lines), take the 4 screws out holding the cover and put a finger in the port to hold the rotary valve in there. Then fix the stripped threads on a work bench. Working bent over, trying to drill, then tap, then insert a helicoil---forget it. If not, just pull the entire engine, it's not that hard. I think your shoveling a deeper hole doing all that "in house". I know your close to the finish line and no one likes a set back.

Typically careful, let a brain surgeon tell you that one. Sorry, this is one of those time when I would take the harder route.