I am one lucky lady! Look what I found! 2004 Islandia

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Well......

Impros can do the wear ring... but I've never cared for them. I've seen too many negative reviews on this board about them over the years. The ring can be bought, and if your local shop can do it... then let them. But there are other performance river boat shops that can do it too. I know there is a shop up in Canada that charges about $450ca for it. AND, since the conversions on our side... that's only around $350 USD. I never used them... but the price is right, and they do it as a core. (send you the new one, and you send the old back)

http://www.jetboatparts.ca/product.php?productid=25

The socket can be found on ebay, or at any Mercury/Quicksilver dealer. But it's not cheap. (about $75) But its a good tool to have around if you plan on keeping the boat for a while.
 
I've been in contact with Outlaw. They do have a reman wear ring with SS insert in stock. With $450 cad core charge. This is the way I'll go.

Ladder..... My front ladder I noticed yesterday is ripping from the bottom of the first telescoping link. I was wondering if anyone knew if I could just replace the ladder part and keep the existing mounting brackets. I would think it's just a standard ladder. Just thought someone might know right off hand.
 
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Post a pic... maybe it can be fixed. But... seadoo didn't make the ladders, so they can be replaced.

FYI... I'll be interested in the new ring from outlaw. I may do the same thing. My ring is OK, and I'm running good... but it could use a refresh.
 
Dr Honda said:
FYI... I'll be interested in the new ring from outlaw. I may do the same thing. My ring is OK, and I'm running good... but it could use a refresh.
Click to expand...

I'll definitely be posting with our pics and such when we tear it down. I'm gonna take my rock grate back and get the cracks welded and when I switch it I'll take good pics of my impeller and wear ring current condition and share with you guys. Parts are on order.
It might be normal but I think I'm burning a little to much oil/fuel. I burned up 3/4 tank of fuel going roughly 30 miles today and I was by myself. The other thing I have been experiencing is during initial start-up it's wanting to stumble or stall. Once I run it for 15 seconds or so it doesn't do it again. I still LOVE my Islandia! We are LOVING the space & conveniences. Saturday we went to the lake and I put a little water in the pool and laid in it and fell asleep. There was a nice breeze. It was the perfect day. I get a lot of compliments on it. No one around here has ever seen one before. They also can't believe that it's a 2004.
 
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Ladder: I guess that could be welded up, and some thin straps... or rings welded over as a reinforcement. But yours almost looks like it's been chrome plated. (mine is just stainless) But, it may be more $$$ to have that done, over finding a good used ladder.

Engine: Don't waste your $$ on a "Pro" tune-up. You know my feelings on shops. Most mechanics turn a wrench because they can't do anything else. OR... this time of the year... they are so busy... they will slap in a set of sparkplugs and be done. And charge you $300. Personaly... if I had the newer engine... I would invest in a Rinda scan tool. THat way you can see every sensor, and do your own adjustments.

As far as fuel consumption...

It is a 2-stroke, and it's thirsty. If you went 30 miles at full throttle... then yes... it could use that much fuel. (full throttle burn is 26 gph) But since the gauge isn't perfect... I would get another check by visually looking at the tank. I think the best range is around 26~27 mph. But since it seems like your boat is running slow... then you would be burning more fuel for a given distance.



With out a doubt... the Islandia is a great boat. Small enough to still trailer... big enough for a party... and all the comforts of home. My fam... with 3 girls... the potty, and fresh water is great to have.
 
biffdotorg said:
I do believe Windline is the OEM on the ladders that SeaDoo used. I ordered one direct for the rear when I wanted more steps than what came stock. You should be able to find an exact match on their site.

Good luck!
Click to expand...

Yeah I was thinking about getting one with more steps. What did you end up getting?
 
I will dig through my old posts, as many of us with Challengers wanted to replace the single step with a two step ladder and we found an exact match that allowed us to use the mounts and order just the bare ladder from Windline.

I will dig a bit, but keep in mind, It is probably different than an islandia. The challenger ladders were under the deck ladders, where I believe the Islandia uses ladders that fold up into a deck surface compartment.
 
biffdotorg said:
I will dig through my old posts, as many of us with Challengers wanted to replace the single step with a two step ladder and we found an exact match that allowed us to use the mounts and order just the bare ladder from Windline.

I will dig a bit, but keep in mind, It is probably different than an islandia. The challenger ladders were under the deck ladders, where I believe the Islandia uses ladders that fold up into a deck surface compartment.
Click to expand...

Yes my challenger ladder was completely different than the 2 that are on my Islandia. I dropped off my ladder and rock grate to the welder. They'll be ready Monday.
 
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Slight subject change. When replacing the wear ring.... what parts are needed or recommended to reassemble? I see that the picture of the kits have other bits included... I certainly don't wanna get it apart and then be stuck without some clip! I ordered #50297 SOCKET, #1071 SS COTTER PIN SHIFT LINK, #1582-9 CLAMP (which is plastic and you know that will break!), #32983 TAB-Washer. The wear ring with SS insert will come with both O-rings. I know I'll need some Mercury 101 lube & Mercury High Performance gear oil.
 

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This may be a duplicate post. I JUST posted this question but I can't find it here in the thread.

@ Dr Honda. I just got my dual battery switch in. My husband asked if it's wired in series or parallel. It came with a set of wires.
And what battery do I get from NAPA?
282.jpg
 
I'm sure the Dr will confirm, but as far as I understand (as I'm about to do the same 2-battery update), the switch is wired as follows:

Positive lead from each battery goes to separate posts on switch.

Negative lead on each battery just go to an engine bolt for ground.

Switch positive output lead goes directly to starter post.

Essentially it should be exactly like the OEM single battery switch that you have. The only difference is the new 2nd battery will have the red lead going to the switch.
 
henryb said:
I'm sure the Dr will confirm, but as far as I understand (as I'm about to do the same 2-battery update), the switch is wired as follows:

Positive lead from each battery goes to separate posts on switch.

Negative lead on each battery just go to an engine bolt for ground.

Switch positive output lead goes directly to starter post.

Essentially it should be exactly like the OEM single battery switch that you have. The only difference is the new 2nd battery will have the red lead going to the switch.
Click to expand...

What battery are you going to use?
 
Everyone has an opinion on batteries, but here is mine. If you are adding a second battery for your electronics with a dual battery switch and isolator, then get as big of a deep cycle battery as you tray will allow you to buy.

Brand is not as important as the electronics like a sonar, stereo and amps are not hitting a battery as hard as an electric trolling motor. (that is assuming you are not a 25 year old with the lust for 5 amps, 4 subs and 18 speakers)

Stereo equipment will not drain a battery like a trolling motor that can fully drain a big deep cycle over a weekend of fishing. Since mine is setup with an isolator, my engine will put a small charge on the second battery while out running/tubing. But I still put the charger on it probably 3 times per summer.

Save your money on those Optima Blue Tops etc. Those are for the trolling motor guys and they have a definite purpose. I think my last deep cycle battery was bought at Sams Club or Walmart for $75-$80 and it has been in two boats. Yup, 6 years in the current boat, and a couple in the previous boat running amps and stereo. I think that is amazing and I am sure it will die this week now that I have said it.

We do have a fairly expensive AGM cranking battery that the previous owner installed. I hit that with the charger about the same amount as the other just to be sure it is in good shape. Mercs are power finicky, so I like to be sure to eliminate that variable. The isolator will not allow us to pull power from that AGM if the stereo battery dies. That's the point. We always have juice to get home.

Good luck with the install. I wish you the same luck we have had with batteries.
 
I just happen to have a fairly new 12" Deep Cycle battery (sorry I don't have the specs), but it's big and heavy. If I were to buy a new one, I would get a much smaller foot print deep cycle battery, as the place that I want to put the battery is quite tight for such a large tray/battery configuration.

But based on the space you have, just get a good deep cycle unit that fits best in the space you have.
 
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The switch is parallel. If it was in series... you would go up to 24v, and POOF.

As above... the common wire goes to the engine, and the #1 goes to the first battery, and #2 goes to the other. All the grounds can be tied together.

Personally... I don't like the black wires that are on that switch. Since the switch is put on the positive side of things... it's too easy to accidentally hook the wires backwards by people who may not know. (Swap out all positive cables for red)

Sine you have a newer engine... you will need an isolator to charge both batteries. OR... just switch between them during the day. you can safely switch across the "Both" while the engine is running. BUT... DO NOT switch across the "Off" position if the engine is running. The voltage surge could damage something.

If you run 2 of the same battery... you can just leave it on both.

I personaly like Die-Hard batteries, but in the last few years... they have had issues too. But, in my boat, I have a Group 27 as my standard battery. (That's the OEM size) and my second battery is a Group 24. I would have preferred to run a second Group 27, but the open spot was smaller, and it would have been a pain in the butt to squeeze it in.

Since the islandia doesn't have huge power requirements (like an air Conditioner, or microwave) I would recommend a dual use marine battery. They can start the engine... and safely take a deep discharge once in a while. If you are planning on hooking up a trolling motor, or huge stereo system... then you may want a deep cycle on the second battery, and separating the electrical system into a "House" and "Engine" system. (but that's more work than it's worth on a boat like this)

As a final FYI... If you are doing a lot of night running... switching the lights out to LED's is a huge power saver.
 
Dr Honda said:
The switch is parallel. If it was in series... you would go up to 24v, and POOF.

As above... the common wire goes to the engine, and the #1 goes to the first battery, and #2 goes to the other. All the grounds can be tied together.

Personally... I don't like the black wires that are on that switch. Since the switch is put on the positive side of things... it's too easy to accidentally hook the wires backwards by people who may not know. (Swap out all positive cables for red)

Sine you have a newer engine... you will need an isolator to charge both batteries. OR... just switch between them during the day. you can safely switch across the "Both" while the engine is running. BUT... DO NOT switch across the "Off" position if the engine is running. The voltage surge could damage something.

If you run 2 of the same battery... you can just leave it on both.

I personaly like Die-Hard batteries, but in the last few years... they have had issues too. But, in my boat, I have a Group 27 as my standard battery. (That's the OEM size) and my second battery is a Group 24. I would have preferred to run a second Group 27, but the open spot was smaller, and it would have been a pain in the butt to squeeze it in.

Since the islandia doesn't have huge power requirements (like an air Conditioner, or microwave) I would recommend a dual use marine battery. They can start the engine... and safely take a deep discharge once in a while. If you are planning on hooking up a trolling motor, or huge stereo system... then you may want a deep cycle on the second battery, and separating the electrical system into a "House" and "Engine" system. (but that's more work than it's worth on a boat like this)

As a final FYI... If you are doing a lot of night running... switching the lights out to LED's is a huge power saver.
Click to expand...


Thanks Doc.
I didn't realize I'd need an isolator. Can you recommend one? Or a type? I did a quick eBay search for battery isolator and there are ones $20 to $150 and different amps/volts.
I'm lost. lol
 
Dr Honda said:
The switch is parallel. If it was in series... you would go up to 24v, and POOF.

As above... the common wire goes to the engine, and the #1 goes to the first battery, and #2 goes to the other. All the grounds can be tied together.

Personally... I don't like the black wires that are on that switch. Since the switch is put on the positive side of things... it's too easy to accidentally hook the wires backwards by people who may not know. (Swap out all positive cables for red)

Sine you have a newer engine... you will need an isolator to charge both batteries. OR... just switch between them during the day. you can safely switch across the "Both" while the engine is running. BUT... DO NOT switch across the "Off" position if the engine is running. The voltage surge could damage something.

If you run 2 of the same battery... you can just leave it on both.

I personaly like Die-Hard batteries, but in the last few years... they have had issues too. But, in my boat, I have a Group 27 as my standard battery. (That's the OEM size) and my second battery is a Group 24. I would have preferred to run a second Group 27, but the open spot was smaller, and it would have been a pain in the butt to squeeze it in.

Since the islandia doesn't have huge power requirements (like an air Conditioner, or microwave) I would recommend a dual use marine battery. They can start the engine... and safely take a deep discharge once in a while. If you are planning on hooking up a trolling motor, or huge stereo system... then you may want a deep cycle on the second battery, and separating the electrical system into a "House" and "Engine" system. (but that's more work than it's worth on a boat like this)

As a final FYI... If you are doing a lot of night running... switching the lights out to LED's is a huge power saver.
Click to expand...



How about this isolator/ACR?

Blue Sea Systems SI-ACR Automatc Charging Relay - 12/24V DC / 120A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OTIPDQ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_C21NxbZHH1AHN
 
Dr Honda said:
Humm.... Never seen that type, but it looks like it should work.
Click to expand...

I just decided to go over to the marina and get one. Maybe a few dollars higher but it would save me postage. Those guys looked at me like I was crazy. They said with my switch (pic above) I didn't need an isolator. NOW I'M CONFUSED!
 
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