I am one lucky lady! Look what I found! 2004 Islandia

[Nike12000]

Good to know. I should make a sticky with bulb numbers.

What are you 90 try Apples notes or Google Keep if you need notes or for spreadsheets use google sheets or Apple Numbers. You will never remember to take a post it with you to the store and never have it when you need it but you almost always have your phone or tablet and since those programs sync with your different devices you will always have the info you need at your finger tips

 

[henryb]

What are you 90 try Apples notes or Google Keep if you need notes or for spreadsheets use google sheets or Apple Numbers. You will never remember to take a post it with you to the store and never have it when you need it but you almost always have your phone or tablet and since those programs sync with your different devices you will always have the info you need at your finger tips

I think the idea is to have a list that everyone on this forum can get to and save in whatever form works for them!

 

[Nike12000]

Got Ya would be cool

 

[SeptemberC]

I need a tachometer. Part numbers have been superseded and made obsolete. 204470807 is what is or shall I say WAS in it




that part number was superseded with 204470962 which also shows obsolete.

Found one. New old stock.

Now the Speedometer. The gauge does light up with deck lights, doesn't move at all when I start the engine or anything. I'm heading back out to check the connection plug in the back. Anything else I can check? I'm really hoping it's not the gauge cause I'm NOT buying one of those.

But for you Dr. Honda and all of your diagnosis you'll need my tach reading so. . . .I'll get one of those.

 

[SeptemberC]

I only have 2 wires going through the hull for the speed sensor. I unplugged & cleaned the contacts. I don't know what else to check.

 

[Nike12000]

Did you check power and ground on those wires not sure with those gauges but if there are lights I would think there would be 3 wires... power ground and a signal.

 

[SeptemberC]

I have power to the gauge. At least the light on the gauge lights up. But on the rear where the wires come through the hull there are only 2 wires.

If it's a cheap fix I'll do it. But I'm not spending $200 or more for a gauge that isn't accurate anyway. It's just my OCD kicking in that I want everything to work. [emoji12]

 

[SeptemberC]

By any chance does anyone know what bulb goes in the docking lights?

 

[Dr Honda]

The power question by Nike:

You won't have "Power" going back to the sender. So, it will only be 2 wires. The sender is a simple magnet, and switch set up. The power will be on the back of the gauge, and will come from the power block in the helm.


Lights: Sorry... I haven't dig into mine, and the OEM parts list only shows the entire housing. But, if you pop it open, let us know, and I will start the "Light bulb" sticky. I'm going to assume it's an H1 55w bulb. (but check first)

 

[SeptemberC]

I'll be attempting to open it up this afternoon if it stops raining long enough. I will keep you posted.

 

[SeptemberC]

Oh and IF I were to replace the speedometer. There are drop in replacements that are GPS. $150ish. But at this point with my speed down I don't want hubby to know the actual speed. I just keep smiling and telling him to slow down we're going to fast. lol

 

[SeptemberC]

I have inquired what size the drain plugs are. Mine are suspiciously missing..... Dr Honda replied with this info. I thought I would share in case anyone else had the same question.
OK... they aren't "Pipe Threads". (NPT isn't even close) To me... they look like "Acme" threads. It's not very common anymore with hardware... but they are common for threaded shafts.

Anyway... it's a 1" hole plug. So... you either need to remove the threaded part, and use a rubber plug... or replace the entire assembly. It's a standard part at a boat shop. (1" hole, 1.5" across the screws)

 

[SeptemberC]

2004 Islandia Docking lightbulb

 

[Dr Honda]

My bad. it was an H3... not an H1. The H1 has a larger flange, for a headlight. The H3 is a "Fog light" or "Driving Light" bulb.

 

[SeptemberC]

I cleaned them up and I'll put them back in until the LED's come in.

 

[SeptemberC]

Dr Honda - Tach was replaced today. Sad to say the weather here is cold & rainy. Next warm day I'll report back to you with some RPM readings.

 

[SeptemberC]

Dr Honda - 5400 rpm @ full throttle 34-35 MPH (phone GPS speed)

 

[henryb]

Dr Honda - 5400 rpm @ full throttle 34-35 MPH (phone GPS speed)

Is that normal for the Islandia? I guess it is a much heavier boat then the Challenger. Mine with a worn out wear-ring and compression averaging 100, still gets 47mph at 5600rpm.

 

[Dr Honda]

Is that normal for the Islandia? I guess it is a much heavier boat then the Challenger. Mine with a worn out wear-ring and compression averaging 100, still gets 47mph at 5600rpm.

Nope... that's a little slow. Officially... it should be 42~43 mph as I recall. My boat will do 35 without trying very hard. (75% throttle, top up, and 6~7 people)

SeptemberC: Did you take a midnight ride? (LOL)

Anyway... the RPM's are low. If you can find another 400~500 RPM, you will find another 8 mph. With a jet pump... you really add a lot of pressure with a small change in peak RPM's. But, at this point, I wouldn't get too excited. Lets get a tank of fuel though that engine, both to knock out the cobwebs, and to make sure we have fresh fuel. After that... the next steps will be to:

1) Make sure the throttle is opening all the way.
2) Check peak ignition timing.
3) Double check our static compression numbers.
4) Make a run with your bilge fan on.

I know that last one seems simple, but it will assure clean, fresh air for the engine to breath.

Do we know the running hours on your engine? Was it ever rebuilt?

 

[SeptemberC]

Nope... that's a little slow. Officially... it should be 42~43 mph as I recall. My boat will do 35 without trying very hard. (75% throttle, top up, and 6~7 people)

SeptemberC: Did you take a midnight ride? (LOL) HEY - Caught a break in the rain and I went for it! LOL

Anyway... the RPM's are low. If you can find another 400~500 RPM, you will find another 8 mph. With a jet pump... you really add a lot of pressure with a small change in peak RPM's. But, at this point, I wouldn't get too excited. Lets get a tank of fuel though that engine, both to knock out the cobwebs, and to make sure we have fresh fuel. After that... the next steps will be to: I have run 2 tanks of fresh fuel through it along with Starbrite enzyme treatment. Replaced spark plugs with the proper NGK plugs and I verified gap. I used throttle Body cleaner (on a rag) to wipe the throttle body and butterfly. It was slightly dirty in appearance but was not sticking. It idles smooth and starts immediately. The impeller and wear ring look perfect with no damage or markings of any kind. It does appear that I get no additional speed or RPM's after moving the throttle from 75% to 100%. Question: I have an ECU not regulators correct?

1) Make sure the throttle is opening all the way. Will check this!
2) Check peak ignition timing. Will have to get someone to do this. Beyond my abilities. lol
3) Double check our static compression numbers.
4) Make a run with your bilge fan on.

I know that last one seems simple, but it will assure clean, fresh air for the engine to breath.

Do we know the running hours on your engine? 214 hours Was it ever rebuilt? Do not know. Previous owner has passed away

 

[SeptemberC]

Dr. Honda, did you get a chance to read my replies in red above? I have not had the opportunity to check timing yet. The odd thing is that it runs the same speed with 2 adults or 6 adults. So maybe I shouldn't complain.
I do have another question for you. I replaced my plastic bilge drain with brass 1/2" NPT garboard drains. I bought these LED plugs http://boatpluglight.com/products/the-typhon
Hubby wired them into the stern light just below the connector. All lights work as they should but.... When we turn the lights on the tachometer stops working. https://youtu.be/6i8Br-54Kx8
Any obvious ideas?
The water has been murky here but these lights are still really bright and cool.

It was already too dark and they are so bright that I couldn't get a good pic.



Here it's 3:00pm but you can still see how bright they are.
I can live with the tach not working when the stern lights are turned on just as long as I'm not hurting anything.

 

[SeptemberC]

Dr. Honda - Bump

 

[Dr Honda]

Sorry. I must have missed that.

I have no idea why the tach drops out with the NAV lights on. But, let me go back and read the posts in red... and look at the wiring diagram on the boat, and I'll be back shortly.

 

[Dr Honda]

OK... there wasn't a lot to respond too yet I guess. But if you go from 75% to 100% throttle... and there isn't a marked change in power... then you are simply running out of power. I wonder if they re-pitched the impeller when the pump was worked on, by the previous owner?? But, this coms back to the list I gave above. If the timing is low 4~5 degrees... you will lose power up top. If the throttle plate isn't opening all the way... you lose. (but I'm thinking this isn't the issue) and, if the compression is a little low... you lose a significant amount of torque. These engines run just fine at 125~130 psi cold, but I think I'm upward of 140.

Now... you asked a question, that I don't understand. You said... " I have an ECU not regulators correct?" Unfortunately... I don't know what you are asking. An ECU is an electronic gizmo that runs the engine. A regulator is generally a mechanical device to "Regulate" something. (You have a fuel regulator) Since you have both... I don't know what you are asking. (sorry)

 

[SeptemberC]

I don't know that the pump has had work done to it. I was unable to get any service records. I did get compression readings prior to purchasing. I'll see if I can find that info from the email and report back but I think all cylinders were 140. If this rain would ever stop I've got a friend that was going to check timing for me. (Which one is #1 plug?). When I was asking about the ECU I think it was in reference to where the tach was getting info. But after checking that I had signal to the tach at the helm I knew that the gauge itself was bad. If I wouldn't have had signal at the helm I would have needed to know where on the engine to find the wiring feed for the tach.
Let me know what your thoughts might be to the NAV / tach after looking at the diagram.