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Hydrolock
- Thread starter fokker
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Find a large cranking battery so you don't ruin the tiny stocker, and try not to overheat the starter.
Rotate the ski 45 degrees toward the right side from the rider's position. This will help it start sooner and keep going to kick the water out. Like he said give the starter time to cool and only hold your attempts to 10 second intervals.
Leave the plugs finger tight and use the choke to get a cough, then pull plugs and blow vaper into the air(plug wires on grounding posts of course) if it does not take off. Screw the plugs back down and try again. Do not run for more than a minute at a time out of the water but get it to the water soon for a good long hard run before the internal bearings rust up.
Yes if the battery is tired it will turn over but have no spark. You must have a fresh battery. Don't jump start it from a boosted source (of course).
Leave the plugs finger tight and use the choke to get a cough, then pull plugs and blow vaper into the air(plug wires on grounding posts of course) if it does not take off. Screw the plugs back down and try again. Do not run for more than a minute at a time out of the water but get it to the water soon for a good long hard run before the internal bearings rust up.
Yes if the battery is tired it will turn over but have no spark. You must have a fresh battery. Don't jump start it from a boosted source (of course).
Well hook the primer up cause it's not gonna run on water.
kicker
Well-Known Member
We posted at the same time
Be patient, don't burn up your starter, 10 seconds cranking 30 seconds waiting. It will eventually clear out. Once it runs the best thing is to ride it for 20-30 min to be sure all the water is gone from the bearings. If you cant get it in the water load it up with some fogging oil.
I would change the oil in the CB cavity as well, if any water got in there...........kabooom.
Be patient, don't burn up your starter, 10 seconds cranking 30 seconds waiting. It will eventually clear out. Once it runs the best thing is to ride it for 20-30 min to be sure all the water is gone from the bearings. If you cant get it in the water load it up with some fogging oil.
I would change the oil in the CB cavity as well, if any water got in there...........kabooom.
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Don't quit,,,, You need to get the water out and get it running. I have seen them seize over night.
Really need to get it on the water and run it for a good 30 minutes to dry out the block. But at a minimum at least get it running.
Really need to get it on the water and run it for a good 30 minutes to dry out the block. But at a minimum at least get it running.
Hmmm. don't remember that in the instructions. Why open that can of worms? You have to run that engine to get the water out of the bottom of the crank case and counter balance area.
SabrToothSqrl
Well-Known Member
you have to get it running, on the water, for 20+ min.
If not, remove the engine, send it to a rebuild shop, and bill your 'friend'.
If not, remove the engine, send it to a rebuild shop, and bill your 'friend'.
same thing happened to me last year had a friend hydro lock mine. ''like pops always said A LENT SLED IS A BENT SLED''
Im partial to using some starting fluid in this situation. Yes its not very good, but it gives that extra ommph needed to get it to start popping and blowing that water out the exhaust.
You got to get it started...today.
You got to get it started...today.
Spimothy Leary
Well-Known Member
yip.
my older brother no longer rides ski's, because he did the same thing like 7 years ago, before I even started riding ski's, he couldn't get it started sunday, gave up and went to sleep, then went to work monday, and when he got home it was too late.
I can't even get him to ride my loaners because he's still pissed off about coming home that monday and finding out he was screwed.
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