• This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.

GTX 04 SC: Everything was perfect then I got buzzers / cavitation at same time! VIDEO

Status
Not open for further replies.

brobertov8

New Member
http://youtu.be/mV9TRlL7ldM

Hello All,

My GTX 04 SC was running perfect, actually very good to be true.

Went to a big lake yesterday, 220Miles away from home.

After 40minutes riding, I got buzzer and warning light... Almost instantly the engine starts to fail. it was not LIMP mode for sure. It did sounds like more a lost spark or something like that.

On the video link above you can see how the ski went back to the dock. It took forever to go back home, at 3000rpm...
The strange is below 3000rpm I got warning light and buzzer as you can see... and the error code P1607 (MPEM FAIL)....
And if I try go above 4000rpm, the engine will do but failing a lot... looks like 2 cylinder working only... and it will be a massive cavitation.

My main question is:
Did I get TWO DIFFERENT issues at the same time??? Like MPEM Failure AND a wear ring problem??

Or maybe my MPEM goes away and then I got cavitation due a not normal engine running???

Could you guys please whatch the video and give me some light?

PS: On the CANDOO I god the same P1607 error... MPEM failure..... Just clear the codes today, start the ski out of the water and almost instantly I got the same error again... P1607.

Thank You!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Well...it wasn't missing spark at 3K and below...something's shutting you down above that.

I couldn't, of course, see the cavitation...you check the tunnel and pump?

Start checking all connections on the MPEM...ect.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Well...it wasn't missing spark at 3K and below...something's shutting you down above that.

I couldn't, of course, see the cavitation...you check the tunnel and pump?

Start checking all connections on the MPEM...ect.


Yes, I agree with you, there is no missing spark at 3k.
Running the ski today out of the water, connected to the candoo, I test all the three sparks... When I turn off each one of those, I can see clearly all three are working good.

I went below the ski and did a visual inspection, seems to be good the wear ring and the impeler.... nothing calls my attetion.

I also checked all the wires connections to the MPEM... and tested all fuses.... everything ok.

1. Probably I have an issue on MPEM.... (I hope not), but seems to be the main issue.
2. I did not see any connection between the MPEM issue and the cavitation.
Did you?

Maybe when the engine runs not good above 3k, maybe there is not enough pressure on the pump and then you get cavitation??? Makes sense???

Thanks
 
Because the drive is direct....I don't see a connection between the cavitation and mpem issue. Cavitation is the prop spinning free...w/o enough load....ie...not a "too little" hp issue.
 
Because the drive is direct....I don't see a connection between the cavitation and mpem issue. Cavitation is the prop spinning free...w/o enough load....ie...not a "too little" hp issue.

I cant agree more. But some news (unbelievable):

I went to the small lake near home to test it today, and guess: Ski running fine 100% perfect.
After 5 minutes buzzer again and warning light and this time I did not wait, just went back to the dock before the lack of power.

I can now presume there is no mechanic issue... And that strange "cavitation" was due the lack of power.... yes... it was strange!, but I only could felt the engine failing like a missing cylinder... and when I tried to go up 4 or 5k the engine went with some difficult but the ski did cavitate for sure....

Today... everything perfect.

My diagnostic until now:
- When I go for a "long" ride... maybe after 40 minutes the MPEM fails....
Because the lake near home is so small that I never ride for so long with no interruption.

Since I got the same warning and it´s more frequently P1607, should I look for buy a new MPEM?

Did you ever see this kind of error?

Please find attached the candoo screen, with faults stored (once again: P1607).
Sem título.jpg

Any ideas why MPEM is bad?

Thanks
 

Attachments

  • Sem título.jpg
    Sem título.jpg
    16.8 KB · Views: 13
Last edited by a moderator:
Some update:

I believe there is some problem in the rectifier (voltage regulator).
i´ve change it two months ago, and I believe this new one is producing the issue.

I swap this new one with the old one and at least on the hose, the buzzer and the warning light did not come back.

I will have to wait next weekend to test on the water....
 
I'm sorry. I haven't seen anyone with this particular prob...very few if any actual MPEM failures.

I'd hate to tell you that a replacement will solve the problem....because I just can't get my head around what is happening to your ski.

Did you also experience cavitation today...loss of power above 3K...on the way back to the ramp?
 
thanks for keep help on this misterious issue.

today I didn´t get the loss of power, only the buzzer and warning light... I back to the ramp in 5 minutes. While that, engine running great!

I dont know why, but I´m distrusting the rectifier...... I bought a new one, but instead the seller told me it was OEM, I realize it don´t.... I sawp to the old (bad) again, but I can only test it now on the weekend. On the hose I saw some difference....
Í´m thinking about it.... if this new (not OEM) rectifier is producing that error on MPEM.....
 
Just to close this subject, this is what happened:

The engine failed due a bad brand new rectifier (not OEM). Probably there was missed sparks above 3kRPM, and the most curious was I got cavitation in that bad engine behavior. Yes! You can get cavitation if your engine does not turns perfectly... maybe due vibration and the inconstantly rpm grow.

I changed the rectifier and the engine running fine, without MPEM Error code anymore.

THanks for all the tips and time you guys spent on this.

Regards,
 
The nice thing about an rectifier, all you have to do is unplug it to determine if it is the issue.
 
Any odd vibration in the driveline system can cause cavitation, slightly bent driveshaft, engine running roughly, pump bearing going out, etc.

Glad to hear the rectifier I sent you fixed it.
 
Any odd vibration in the driveline system can cause cavitation, slightly bent driveshaft, engine running roughly, pump bearing going out, etc.

Glad to hear the rectifier I sent you fixed it.

Yeah Skidoo, fixed it no doubt! Thanks!
I only could true test it today. everything perfect.

And also I found which my "original / previous" rectifier was not OEM also, i found that since the part you sent arrives, which has better fitment, comes with the seal and it is installed with the ventilated part to below.

Everything fine now!!!

Who would bet that, a single rectifier could cause so many strange things!
 
Great thread guys! I had a similar problem last weekend. I got the long beep and a flashing warning light. I pressed set 5 times and got a fault code 16XX can't remember the last two digits for sure; I fugured the fault was set and I'd download it when I got back to the house. I hooked up my CanDoo Pro when I got home, and there were no faults listed. I then pressed set 5 times and the information center went right to "END". The ski seems to have fixed itself ... like an F-35!

I didn't experience any performace issues. The ski ran like a stabbed rat. Last year when I was working on the same ski (changed the information center for water intrusion) and the J-pipe (exhaust leak), I notice the potting material on the regulator/rectiver had pulled away from the case. I sealed it up with RTV, but I'll bet there's corrosion inside the unit.

Ski-Doo, any chance you have a servicable regulator for an '02 GTX 4-Tec?
 
The potting material isn't very good on the OEM rectifiers, very common for them to start peeling or even tear themselves apart and just fall out. Oddly enough, though, it usually doesn't effect the performance by corrosion or such and I've seen them last for years and years and a few more years like this and never fail. The 4tec OEM rectifiers are pretty reliable even without any of the potting material left on it. However, I'm 1000 miles from saltwater so this may not be the case for others.

The 02 rectifier is the same for all the 4tecs except for the 09 and newer models. I have a few used ones but if yours is still working, I wouldn't change it just because of the potting material coming off.
 
It's still working, but after reading this thread, I suspect voltage spikes may be the cause of my phantom error codes.

The good part about being down here is FL is the water is still 80 degrees. I'll be on the water Saturday.
 
Hello All, ski-d00 and red2blue!

Went to a long ride yesterday.

80 minutes trip to a far destination, 45miles in the lake.
During the return in the lake, in a not so good weather (shaking a lot and waves) after 20 minutes, I got "flasing warning light" above 5000rpm.

I suppose that was the rectifier again sending overvoltage to the system. But I was far from the dock and I had to keep going.

After more 20 or 30 minutes, the warning flashing light becomes constantly at any RPM and I got an error cod P0562 (which means low bat voltage).

The good news is that I returned safely, but I guess the (some) fuse was blown, maybe due the over voltage.
And I guess the ski is not charging the battery anymore.

I did not check it yet, and I will do it during the week.


If I´m right, I will replace the fuse. But what in this world could be causing these "rectifiers" problems in my ski?
Maybe the "generator" is bad?
Could I fried this rectifier in the ski?


Thanks for any tips.
 
Hello All, ski-d00 and red2blue!

Went to a long ride yesterday...After more 20 or 30 minutes, the warning flashing light becomes constantly at any RPM and I got an error cod P0562 (which means low bat voltage)...I did not check it yet, and I will do it during the week.

Relax....don't panic. A poor battery cable is very likely your prob...this time. Check the + cable. My bet, it's either that or the two lines feeding your 30amp fuses by the relay.
 
Relax....don't panic. A poor battery cable is very likely your prob...this time. Check the + cable. My bet, it's either that or the two lines feeding your 30amp fuses by the relay.

I belive you´re right once again!
I will only can test it tomorrow, but I checked those connections in battery today, those two fat positive wires, two 30A fuses and that pair which connects in that brown part where the two fat positive wires goes.

One of the fuses was bad but there was still continuity. I replaced it anyway:
image1.JPG


Everything looks ok, but during my inspection I insert the key and start the ski.... the cluster did not come to live!!! then I checked everything again... unplug the positve cables and pluged it again... and the cluster comes to live and the error went away (looks like).

Tomorrow I will run the engine on the hose and will post results!!

I wish a lot that error was only this!!!
Thanks
 
Last edited by a moderator:
My bet, it's either that or the two lines feeding your 30amp fuses by the relay.

Red2Blue, what would be the "relay"?

Is that "light brown" piece, where the + cable goes from the battery and then out for the starter?

image1 (2).JPG

thanks
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top