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end to hitch rattling

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1) Links don't work.


2) What's the big deal? If your receiver is rattling so bad, that you need to modify the hitch.... then you don't have enough weight on the tongue of the trailer. The simple solution is to move the weight, and turn up the radio.

3) As far as trying to quiet the ball.... BE VERY CAREFUL WITH THAT !! If you try to tighten it up... you could break it off. But... put a good coating of grease on it, and then tighten the adjusting nut on the hitch. That will take out some of the knocking... but DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN IT.
 
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2) and turn up the radio......

3) As far as trying to quiet the ball.... BE VERY CAREFUL WITH THAT !! If you try to tighten it up... you could break it off. But... put a good coating of grease on it, and then tighten the adjusting nut on the hitch. That will take out some of the knocking... but DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN IT.

2).....I've Used that solution many times :)

3). If you tighten the adjusting nut on the hitch you still need the ball to be able to swivel.
Tony, if it still swivels can the ball still break off?
 
Yes, it is that bad that i have to modify it. The roads here are crap. Even the main highway is full of potholes and metal sheets covering holes on bridges that if they weren't there, you would fall through it under the bridge
 
The ball shouldn't swivel at all, I've never checked the torque, I've just tightened the nut until it's "tight". I just checked the internet for a torque setting and according to Draw Tite, for a 3/4" shank ball the torque setting should be 160 ft. lbs, a 1" 250 ft. lbs.

Lou
 
The ball shouldn't swivel at all, I've never checked the torque, I've just tightened the nut until it's "tight". I just checked the internet for a torque setting and according to Draw Tite, for a 3/4" shank ball the torque setting should be 160 ft. lbs, a 1" 250 ft. lbs.Lou

I don't mean that the ball is loose enough to move. I mean the coupler should be able to move (swivel) on top of the ball, within the turning radius of the tow car.
 
It shouldn't be a problem, unless the ball you are using it too large for the coupler, ie a 2" ball and a 1-7/8" coupler.

I always put a little wheel bearing grease on the ball.

Lou
 
The ball shouldn't swivel at all, I've never checked the torque, I've just tightened the nut until it's "tight". I just checked the internet for a torque setting and according to Draw Tite, for a 3/4" shank ball the torque setting should be 160 ft. lbs, a 1" 250 ft. lbs.

Lou

I would tow my 27 FT Sea Ray with a C-60 (Two ton Chevy truck). And for some reason, the ball would loosen almost every time no matter how tight I seemed to tighten the ball..

Checked out several sites and finally found specs on a 1-inch shaft with a 2 1/8 inch ball.. Tightened to specs and never had another issue.

That said, I have towed hundreds of things, maybe even into the thousands by a bit. The Sea Ray is the ONLY item I have ever had to get the ball to a specific torque.

Strange how certain item require very specific handling..
 
It shouldn't be a problem, unless the ball you are using it too large for the coupler, ie a 2" ball and a 1-7/8" coupler.

I always put a little wheel bearing grease on the ball.

Lou


I use to do the same but ran into a ground issue on a three-wire system. I ended up running a separate ground wire to eliminate the hitch being the "forth wire" kind of thing.

I don't do the grease thing anymore as I leave the hit in 100% of the time. I have found that if I leave grease I will for sure bump into it with my pants...
 
Never heard of a 2 1/8" ball

I am biting my lip VERY hard,,, but I will be good...

Yep, it is for the larger and heavier toys.

1 7/8, 2 and 2 1/8 are the common sizes and the 2 1/8 is a rarer of the three.

Next step up would be the Pintle Hook...
 
There are items made that eliminate hitch rattle.

I have a tapered pin in mine for example.

I have seen others use U-Bolts as well. They would have part of the U-Bolt on the reciever and the other part on the hitch.

If you do this, I would suggest you do it so that the hitch is held down which is where the trailer would be keeping it once you are towing.
 
There are items made that eliminate hitch rattle.

I have a tapered pin in mine for example.

I have seen others use U-Bolts as well. They would have part of the U-Bolt on the reciever and the other part on the hitch.

If you do this, I would suggest you do it so that the hitch is held down which is where the trailer would be keeping it once you are towing.

I've bought such a thing. About $35 but it's an insert into the receiver and a bolt and nut for the 2" inch hitch. Tighten it up and the rattle disappeared. Maybe too expensive for some but I had to listen to wife rattle or hitch rattle. Now, neither. Well at least the wife rattle has disappated somewhat.
 
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