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i need some help!

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What would cause the fuel punp to run without the lanyard in? I put in one of the fuses in the rear box and the fuel pump immediately starts running
 
richardpr said:
What would cause the fuel punp to run without the lanyard in? I put in one of the fuses in the rear box and the fuel pump immediately starts running
Click to expand...

It's wired directly to the MPEM, has someone rewired it (hacked the harness)?

Remove 10A FUEL PUMP fuse from MPEM to see if FP doesn't run. If it runs, then harness is hacked.
 
The harness is hacked. The plug is the first post is the fuse holder in the rear box. The cable goes from hot 12v to the fuse holder and from there to the regulator
 
richardpr said:
The harness is hacked. The plug is the first post is the fuse holder in the rear box. The cable goes from hot 12v to the fuse holder and from there to the regulator
Click to expand...

Don't worry about RR hack b/c it's a simple hack on a simple circuit, looks okay from picture, and easily corrected if necessary. The RR might be bad, if stator is okay (b/c it blows RR fuse).

Is there any FP harness hack? Or, do you see any other hacks?
 
richardpr said:
No other hacks. Everything looks stock
Click to expand...

In that case it appears your MPEM is malfunctioning, for some reason. The fuel pump should not run continuously unless the engine is running, only for a brief time when you place the lanyard cap on. Normally, the MPEM turns on the fuel pump to purge and pressurize the fuel line in preparation for start-up for a few seconds only, then the MPEM turns it back on during cranking and running.

Does the ignition have spark, or no? If NO, then it may be a confirming sign the MPEM is malfunctioning. Take precautions during this test, there may be gasoline vapors in the bilge or inside the engine, of course. I usually remove the spark plugs for a spark test but it's safer to leave them in (to avoid fire hazard).

Do you have a way to test if the MPEM is firing the fuel injectors, such as a NOID light? Some people use a small low wattage 6v or 12v light bulb but it's hard to see sometimes b/c the pulse is brief. A small 6v bulb is brighter but can burn out easily.

Fuel, spark, compression are necessary. You have fuel pressure but the pump is always on, so that's a safety problem but it does work, can be dangerous b/c it doesn't turn off so be careful and try to find a reason why(could be bad MPEM).

There is a good thread on here for RFI maintenance and troubleshooting, I think it may be a sticky.
 
It beeps 4 times and doesn't crank. The gauge lights up and functions. Nothing else. It did start cranking but the solenoid made noise and stopped cranked. Then got the 4 beeps again
 
richardpr said:
It beeps 4 times and doesn't crank. The gauge lights up and functions. Nothing else. It did start cranking but the solenoid made noise and stopped cranked. Then got the 4 beeps again
Click to expand...

4 long beeps means the MPEM believes the voltage is low.

The voltage arrives to the MPEM on the red/purple wire of connector 3 pin 26 of the MPEM (I'm looking at 2001 RFI schematic, and assuming it's the same as 1999 RFI)
 
Here are the details of the beep diagnostic mode from service manual for 2001:
 

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I am here at home for my lunch break. Get the 4 beeps but now it cranks but quits and the solenoid makes a funky sound. I jump the terminals and cranks like a charm. Have 12.5v. Gonna charge it at 2 amps from now (6pm) until i get off work later (9pm) and hope for the best. Will try to refresh connections also
 
richardpr said:
I am here at home for my lunch break. Get the 4 beeps but now it cranks but quits and the solenoid makes a funky sound. I jump the terminals and cranks like a charm. Have 12.5v. Gonna charge it at 2 amps from now (6pm) until i get off work later (9pm) and hope for the best. Will try to refresh connections also
Click to expand...

Don't overcharge your battery, it should be okay if it's 12.5 volts. Measure battery voltage while cranking, it should be more than 10.5, hopefully 11

I'm thinking IF your MPEM isn't bad then there is low voltage at MPEM, but since your FP always runs, it sounds like MPEM is toast.
 
4 beeps(low battery warning):

It possibly can still run and start if the MPEM thinks the battery is low, it's really just a warning that the MPEM is detecting a low battery. It doesn't mean the battery is actually low, either, just means that the MPEM thinks the battery is low. Could be, the voltage at MPEM really is low even if the battery is fine, for instance IF there is a corroded wire or loose connection somewhere in the harness then the MPEM might receive low voltage and possibly even do strange things.
 
Cleaned and tightened connections and now no beeps. Although this happened after y removed the soleboid and tapped it a few times. I get the impression it is the source of my troubles
 
I am confident that the problem is the solenoid. Or at least part of it. It grinds while i have the start button pressed
 
richardpr said:
I am confident that the problem is the solenoid. Or at least part of it. It grinds while i have the start button pressed
Click to expand...

Inside my e-box, all the grounds tied under one screw and the screw is threaded into a plastic post, I'm going to drill through the box one day and use a stainless bolt and nut with a washer when I get a chance.
 
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock said:
Inside my e-box, all the grounds tied under one screw and the screw is threaded into a plastic post, I'm going to drill through the box one day and use a stainless bolt and nut with a washer when I get a chance.
Click to expand...

That sounds like a marvel of an idea :P

richardpr said:
I don't recall seeing ground wires in the rear e box
Click to expand...


You should see the grounds on one end of the coil if its set up like that but the wiring diagram doesn't show it like that though.
It looks like a ground is being made elsewhere instead of in that box.
 
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