Need some guidence

[Lowbird96]

So I bought a 96 gti yesterday and with it came a 96gsx that needed some work.

The guy stated he was getting a no beep no start issue and beloved it was the key post/lanyard. Upon looking at it further I knew it was more then that because the rear electrical box, and vts were taken apart, and several plugs in the front compartment were removed, but I didn't care much as I didn't pay any extra for the gsx.

Today I messed with it a bit and connected all wiring plugs that were removed.

I reattached the two individual wires that feed the vts motor as well as a plug that feeds wires that run behind the motor.

I found there was a break in the black wire that runs from negative battery post to coil, I replaced it.

I found a knick in the positive battery cable that feed start selinoid, after cutting back the insulation I found the wire was corroded half way through, so I replaced it.

I found the 5amp fuse in rear electrical box was blown, replaced that.

The 15amp fuse holder in rear box looked questionable, so I cleaned and checked continuity on that.

I verified the key post and lanyard was bad with a meter, so I replaced them.

And lastly I found the 5 amp fuse on mpen blown, so I replaced it.

Then reconnected the battery, and nothing... no start no beeps.

It did blow the 5 amp fuse in rear electrical box again. I checked with my meter abd was getting 12 volts across the fuse( meter probe on each side of fuse holder) so I tried removing the wires from the vts again along with the wiring plug that feeds wires that run behind it, and with those wires removed. The fuse does not blow. But still dosnt help my starting issue.

If i jump the selinoid the motor will turn over.

I guess my questions would be.
1. Is that 5 amp fuse in fact for the vts system. It got dark before I could start chasing the wires. If so, how could I be gettoing 12 volt across the fuse block.
2. Those wires being disconnected shouldn't have anything to do with to no start no beep issue, right?
3. I've researched the issue and people say to verify you're getting power to the mpen, which wires should I be checking for power?
4. I've also read I should verify the mpen had a good ground by running a cable from the mpen and grounding it to the motor. Which wire should I be grounding?

Any other ideas to point me in the right direction?

 

[Bills86e]

yes, a shorted VTS can be a cause of 5a fuse blow, so leave that system un-connected for now.
Beeper may be corroded, unplug for now, replace start solenoid after you examine its wire connections are correct
and functioning. Check for spark after you are able to get her cranking.

D/L the manual for that ski, so you have a wire diagram.

Next, check Stator output.

 

[Wayfaring]

Just a note on your 5A fuse. My guess is that it is supposed to be a 7.5A fuse for the VTS. My 96 XP has the 15A for the starting circuit and the 7.5 for the VTS. The VTS fuse was blown on mine when I bought it. The VTS motor is your most likely culprit for it blowing, but that is not affecting your cranking issue.

 

[Lowbird96]

Thank you both also not sure if it makes a difference, but as soon as I connect the positive battery cable, the relay next to the mpen with the 15amp fuse attached energizes, is it supposed too?



Also when I bought the ski the guy gave me an spair front electrical box that is unfortunately from the wrong year ski
( has mpen, cdi and start selinoid all in it)But I took bills86e suggestion and swapped the start selinoid from that and it didn't change anything.

One thing I did notice is that on the original selinoid, I have continuity if I probe the starter 12v feed and the small terminal with the black wire. On the selinoid I pulled from the spair parts he gave me, I did not have continuity between the two.

 

[Lowbird96]

After playing with the wiring some more. Now the fuel/clock/vts position guage is on. And when I press the start button twice, the red temp light flashes.

However the fuel/ clock/ vts guage is staying on, im assuming it should shut off when i remove the lanyard. Right??

Still not sure if the beeper works, and since I switched the key post/key i know it won't start without being programmed but now that the guages turn on is it worth it, to get the key programmed and give it a shot? Should I set my meter to continuity and hook it to the beeper wire? Theoretically the meter would beep if the circut for the beeper was being triggered

 

[Lowbird96]

Ok so after repairing almost all the wires in this ski, I think I finally got it, with the old key on the new post I was able to get the starter selinoid to engage, by pressing the start button.

However it just clicks So I will have to order a new one.

But in line with the way this ski has been going, every time I think I have it all squared away something else pops up.

I attempted to jump the selinoid to turn the motor over and it wouldn't turn over with the spark plugs installed. I had it wired in parallel with a car battery so voltage was good

If i pull the plugs it turns over fine. I don't know how long it sat so I figured oil might have seeped past the rings causing it to vapor lock, I tried bumping the starter several times with a rag over plug holes to see if it would shoot any oil out of the holes and I got nothing.

U guys think the starter might just be weak?