Aftermarket XPL Racer Modded for Rec

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Matt Braley

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I bought this 02 hull back in the spring of 14. It was a multi-time Wold Finals winner so I knew the handling would be right and I just fell for the look of it.



This carbon fiber Watoosee seat was the deciding factor. It's stationary though so no more shock cushion unfortunately.



I paid too much and drove too far for it. A race hull with a lot of history is not gonna be so pretty up close. Tons of damage repaired underneath, tons of slop in the UMI steering, etc. So I threw it to the side. I didn't have a lot of XPL experience so I just started reading up on them and buying performance parts that might come in handy.

Now it's a year and a half later and I've bought three other post 97 XP's. I repaired and resold two of them and just got some parts off the third. I've also bought enough aftermarket parts to do it up several different ways. I finally have decided on a setup(or at least my first attempt haha). I want to be able to run the 93 octane pump gas we have around here while still using as many "go fast" parts as I could.

I started with a mint perfect OEM crank and RXX cases that have the case cooler. I found a perfect stock bore top end with ProX pistons. I'm using a Rossier head with 49cc domes and a safe squish of .076. It has R&D M16 billet reeds, a lightweight flywheel and a lightweight pto that is just a stock one turned down in a lathe.







Here is a pic inside from today. I am using RAAS billet mounts to hold her down.



Yes that is a 96XP grey box up there :cool:. I'm using a 787 cup on the 951 that will work with the 96 XP MPEM. I replaced the CDI with an Advent Tempest #1948 ignition so I can control timing curves and rev limit.



Notice the timing curve choice that says "twin pump gas". That's what I want to do. I have an old beat up set of Factory Pipe long chamber twins that pressure test. These are aggressive but it's what the boat had and I just want to go for it.





I've put in an order with Minnetonka4me for some missing odds and ends. I've talked with Wayne at Wetwerx in NY about the squish gap,ignition timing, and carb jetting. Feel free to question or comment and I will post a lot more soon.
 
I forgot to mention the UMI is tighter now. It was just a little bit of slack in a lot of different places that added up. I filed out the end of the steering cable a little and used a 11mm stainless bolt where the 10mm was egg shaped. There was a aluminum lever that went on a stainless four sided shaft that was sloppy. I had to press the aluminum to tighten it up again. It's not perfect but much better now.
 
Matt, your going to give [MENTION=57920]racerxxx[/MENTION] an brain aneurysm if he has to keep looking at those chipped up head bolts. Lol.

But I have been waiting for you to restore this ski, im glad it is getting the attention it deserves :)
 
Sweet looking XP. Ought to scream good when you get it buttoned up. I love the look of twins


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That seat!... Sounds a a lot like my coffman xpl! Wayne is a wealth of information and helped set me up for 93 octane buoy boat and the machine flies! I actually just got a set of cylinders back from my machinist for a new set of 1st over oem pistons and some mild porting. Interested to see how the twins run on this setup. Im also running a 98 xpl mpem thats been re-flashed with a pump gas coffman curve. No adjustability like urs. But the motor turned almost 7800 rpm before I swapped out the 86/89 skat ring combo to a more standard 82/85. Gained 2 mph and dropped down to 7400-7500 rpm. The xpl handles the course so much better than my buddies rxx and even outruns it!
 
I'm having to swap my aftermarket reed setup. I am using a set of stock carbs that I'm re-jetting. The R&D M16 set up is spigot mount only. The bolt pattern is right with the rubber spigot mounts removed but there is no room for the butterflies to open. I laid out some other options



I ended up choosing the pretty yellow carbon fiber pedals and the billet red Miller reed spacers.

 
I'm having to swap my aftermarket reed setup. I am using a set of stock carbs that I'm re-jetting. The R&D M16 set up is spigot mount only. The bolt pattern is right with the rubber spigot mounts removed but there is no room for the butterflies to open. I laid out some other options



I ended up choosing the pretty yellow carbon fiber pedals and the billet red Miller reed spacers.


Matt, I know your the 787 guru as far as tuning goes. How do you like working on these 951's. Do you have any problems working on them compared to the 787s.?
 
Are you sure you want to run stock carbs with the twin pipes? Tim @ novi - tech said the sbni series of carbs aren't good for the twins.

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CReynoldsMIZ - I don't mind the 951's. They are a beast but a pretty simple beast. I could follow previous setups but I don't mind having to redo a few things until I work out the kinks. I'm risking reliability for performance and originality.

1of500 - No I'm not sure. I have all kinds of aftermarket carbs ready to go but made that decision after a long talk with Wayne. I have all race parts but want to run pump gas so.... I had to give in somewhere. I only want to spin 7300ish max and I've read where big carbs and twin pipes can rev to 7800ish. The other place I plan to give back is timing. I push(advance the 787 timing a little and seem to get away with it. With this 951 the reduced mass on either side of the crank and slightly bumped compression should make it snappy out of the hole. I will always have one eye on the egt's(don't ride too close haha) so If these carbs won't feed it right I'll be the first to know and I'll start trying others.

Minnetonka4me - Thank you for being there and being fair as always. I'm happy to do it right with these new OEM carb kits and needle and seats, thank you. If I end up using other carbs on this then the stockers will go on a GSX I need to save.
 
Here is how the dash is laid out. I'm going to use stock VTS, I've already repaired the F1 fuse in the fuel baffle to work the 96XP muti-gauge, and I've got a minty mph gauge.



A stock mph reading is famously inaccurate but I'm going to utilize the GPS mod for that system from Candoo



This ski has 6 water bypasses in it! That's crazy even with dual cooling I'll never be able to piss that much out. I'll end up picking 3 or 4 that don't wet me while I'm riding (if possible)





Dual cooling requires that I tap the pump for another fitting. I broke out my Scat 148 pump and it was just way too "brand newish" to go drilling on





That thing is like a jet engine. I don't want to be sucking floating sticks and whatnot through it. So now I need to find a plastic 155mm pump to abuse, anybody got one?
 


That thing is like a jet engine. I don't want to be sucking floating sticks and whatnot through it. So now I need to find a plastic 155mm pump to abuse, anybody got one?

I may have what you need, if it's just something to practice on. I've got a pump housing from an '07 GTI that has a few chipped veins in it, but is solid otherwise. Pay shipping and its yours
 
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Did you do the rave valve mod so they open without the solenoid?

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dGoodwin- thanks very much. I want to pay for whatever I get though. If the chips are too bad it could cost me mph. Loosing even one mph to save a couple hundred bucks would bother me too bad. If the chips are not too bad let me pay you for it. I have three good 155mm brass pump and I'd be willing to trade somebody two for one. The brass ones are just too heavy.

1of5- Good point I should have mentioned that. Yes the under side of the rave housings have been drilled so exhaust pressure will open them. It's 787 style and my only option since I'm using mostly 787 electrics and they don't have the signal to kick the rave solenoid on and off.
 
"1of5- Good point I should have mentioned that. Yes the under side of the rave housings have been drilled so exhaust pressure will open them. It's 787 style and my only option since I'm using mostly 787 electrics and they don't have the signal to kick the rave solenoid on and off. "

Can you detail that out a bit?
 
You bet Sabr. You know on the stock 951 you can depress the rave and hold a finger over the fitting and it should stay depressed(I test them like that anyway). They are completely separate and dependent on the air flow from the lower case. The solenoid kicks on and off at certain rpms to dictate the opening and closing of the valves. There are holes in the cylinders already but the stock rave housing blocks it off.

You can drill the housings with a 3/32" bit at an angle from the indention area underneath to inside the bellows. You don't want to hit the sealing surface of the bellows or the hole where the valve's shaft goes. You can cap off the fittings or connectors. 800 rave valve springs should be used and inspection holes should be drilled or routed out so you can verify them functioning while running it off the hose.
 
I'm happy to have some progress to report. I got front cover on the engine and got it in the hull. I bought the SBT alignment tool to have the 155mm bolt pattern plate and the adapters. I got it perfectly straight and tightened down. I didn't want to go drilling on that minty Skat pump so I bought a plastic pump from a RXDI to get started with. It was supposed to be in great shape but had a chunk missing from one vane :facepalm:



I had a minty VTS set aside for this keeper.



I'm over those crap primers. The old style leak almost right away. I'm using this button primer and check out my billet cap.



I've gone back in the carbs and installed the new needle and seats and the OEM Mikuni kits I got from Minnetonka4me. RacerXXX turned me on to a great place to get the long stainless metric socket head bolts I need to use these stock carbs with the Miller reed spacers. Thanks guys.

I put a two wire speedo paddle wheel in it and worked to make a place to go through hull with the wires. THEN I read the instructions for the Candoo Pro GPS and realize I could have skipped all that :ack:

So here is the goodness. By the end of the day I had the mounts epoxied in the hull and the pipes in and tightened down everywhere. In this pic I was just sizing up the mag pipe for the mount locations. The grey box is just sitting there where the black box needs to go. I'll have to come up with something creative on the electrical.

 
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