I don't know, probably not, if they do you would probably have to pay for shipping both ways.
Lou
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97 Gsx 787 crankcase full of oil
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I don't know, probably not, if they do you would probably have to pay for shipping both ways.
Lou
If you use TapATalk it is very easy to upload pictures...
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
I'm curious to know if this motor had NGK BR8ES plugs in it like it should've?
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Yep, that puppy's toast all right...
manolocross
Well-Known Member
And that's why you always check compression before you biy
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I checked it on the machine he advertised as running. The one I'm working on was advertised as a parts machine so I wasn't too worried. It wasn't till I got it home that I thought of getting it running
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
This certainly didn't happen b/c there was too much oil. It does sorta look like maybe the ring snagged in the exhaust port judging by what looks like a broken ring land, especially if the ring is bent. The end of the ring shouldn't be exposed to the port where it can snag in the opening, the ring may have rotated if the locating pin failed.
Other things that can overheat the piston and cause it to melt is low octane from crummy or stale fuel or a lean air/fuel mixture (piston burning detonation occurs when combustion stops too early).
If the piston overheats(too much heat causes piston to expand), the oil film is in jeopardy of failing as the flash point is exceeded. Once the oil film fails, it's all over with.
Pre-ignition can break a piston or ring land as well, it's the most destructive force that can occur in a cylinder. This occurs if the fuel mixture is ignited before it's compressed, a spark plug of too hot of range can cause this or even an overheated piston.
edit: To add a little more, low compression means there will be too much blow-by. The clearance between the piston and cylinder wall plays an important part in transferring heat out of the piston crown through the rings and oil film into the cylinder wall. If there's too much clearance or the rings have collapsed, the piston temp can exceed "safe" levels and cause the oil film to fail. This is why every 2-stoke motor will eventually seize if at some point it's not rebuilt first, to compensate for normal wear, so monitor your compression often enough to catch a worn cylinder before the piston overheats.
Other things that can overheat the piston and cause it to melt is low octane from crummy or stale fuel or a lean air/fuel mixture (piston burning detonation occurs when combustion stops too early).
If the piston overheats(too much heat causes piston to expand), the oil film is in jeopardy of failing as the flash point is exceeded. Once the oil film fails, it's all over with.
Pre-ignition can break a piston or ring land as well, it's the most destructive force that can occur in a cylinder. This occurs if the fuel mixture is ignited before it's compressed, a spark plug of too hot of range can cause this or even an overheated piston.
edit: To add a little more, low compression means there will be too much blow-by. The clearance between the piston and cylinder wall plays an important part in transferring heat out of the piston crown through the rings and oil film into the cylinder wall. If there's too much clearance or the rings have collapsed, the piston temp can exceed "safe" levels and cause the oil film to fail. This is why every 2-stoke motor will eventually seize if at some point it's not rebuilt first, to compensate for normal wear, so monitor your compression often enough to catch a worn cylinder before the piston overheats.
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Thanks for all the good info there
My project is stalled for a few days while a wait on a flywheel puller. Once I check the crank out I'll decide which way to go with this. If the crank is bad I'll probably buy a complete rebuilt engine, it doesn't seem to cost too much more and I'll have a warranty. If the crank is good I'll head to the machine shop and see what they can do with my cylinders
My project is stalled for a few days while a wait on a flywheel puller. Once I check the crank out I'll decide which way to go with this. If the crank is bad I'll probably buy a complete rebuilt engine, it doesn't seem to cost too much more and I'll have a warranty. If the crank is good I'll head to the machine shop and see what they can do with my cylinders
Well the other day I got impatient waiting for the tool and I bought a rebuilt engine from a guy locally. I figured I'll take my time and build the blown one up for the other machine.
I got the tool yesterday and was able to check out the bottom end and everything looks good and spins nice and free. The inner seals are tight and don't look bad so I am thinking I'll be good to seal it up good and put it back together. My question is if there is anything that would be safe to spray all the bearings down to clean out any junk that might have gotten in there?
I got the tool yesterday and was able to check out the bottom end and everything looks good and spins nice and free. The inner seals are tight and don't look bad so I am thinking I'll be good to seal it up good and put it back together. My question is if there is anything that would be safe to spray all the bearings down to clean out any junk that might have gotten in there?
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Here's what I'd do....
If you're contemplating flushing the bearings in the lunched motor my bet would be they were spinning while aluminum shards were bouncing around in there so doubt you can flush that contamination damage out.
For non-sealed rollers I use a very clean parts washer tub with filtered electric pump to flush dust and dirt out of bearings if present, diesel fuel should work as a fluid or the correct (expensive) parts washer fluid. Don't spin them while totally dry of lube else the polished surfaces become scratched, once clean then lube with light oil for checking and fill with camshaft grease (assembly lube) before assy. I guess a new crankshaft should have instructions enclosed?
If you're contemplating flushing the bearings in the lunched motor my bet would be they were spinning while aluminum shards were bouncing around in there so doubt you can flush that contamination damage out.
For non-sealed rollers I use a very clean parts washer tub with filtered electric pump to flush dust and dirt out of bearings if present, diesel fuel should work as a fluid or the correct (expensive) parts washer fluid. Don't spin them while totally dry of lube else the polished surfaces become scratched, once clean then lube with light oil for checking and fill with camshaft grease (assembly lube) before assy. I guess a new crankshaft should have instructions enclosed?
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Filing a crankcase with diesel fuel can work well for pickling a water-flooded motor too, to try keeping it from rusting up until you can get to it.
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Just an update. Im waiting on the alignment tool, pto tool, and pump tool. The motor is ready to drop in once I get the pto coupler thing off the old crank.
With the amount of specialty tools you need for these things I wish there was a place on the forum to list tools you have and where you live so people can share with each other. He'll I'd have been willing to pay someone locall to borrow them. I'd be willing to help people out too
With the amount of specialty tools you need for these things I wish there was a place on the forum to list tools you have and where you live so people can share with each other. He'll I'd have been willing to pay someone locall to borrow them. I'd be willing to help people out too
Its been a while, but I got a lot done today. I got the motor in and aligned, rebuilt the pump, and put a new wear ring in. The other day I cleaned the carbs, cleaned the fuel tank out , and replaced all the fuel lines.
I did manage to fire it up and run it for a second but I wanted to check with you guys before I run it. Is there anything special I need to do for a new motor? I really don't want to blow it up
I did manage to fire it up and run it for a second but I wanted to check with you guys before I run it. Is there anything special I need to do for a new motor? I really don't want to blow it up
Luv2Camp
Active Member
I am sure others with more experience will chime in but I know the original Seadoo Manual for my 657X engine stated to put 30oz of the oil in the first tank of gas and to follow a break in schedule for the first 10 hours of not excessive WOT and also to vary the speeds.
Ok thanks, thats kinda what I was thinking, it's similar to what I've done with my snowmobiles
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
A++++ On the premix insurance policy.
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