97 Gsx 787 crankcase full of oil

[billyed99]

This is my first time on the forum and first time messing with a jetski. I just bought two 97 gsx's both are bone stock and under 90 hrs. One is running one isn't. The non running one has been sitting since 08 and was hydrolocked with oil when I got it. It made a he'll of a mess when I turned it over with no plug! Most of it is coming from the front cylinder but there was a little in the rear. So I pulled the carbs and rotary valve off and oil is right up to the intake on the front cylinder. I'm assuming it's gotta be a crank seal or a bad seal between the case halves but was hoping for someone to back my assumption up. If that is the case what's the best way to get the engines out? I'm used to working on snowmobiles with a lot more room!

Thanks in advance

 

[Coastiejoe]

I replied in your other post, here is a cut and paste.

There is a crank shaft il seal that either goes bad or wears the crank. If they sit for some time, the oil will drain from the tank and pass by the seal. Once it does this, it fills the engine.

Pull the plugs, put a towel over the holes as it will shoot out under great pressure. Crank the engine a bit off and on (don't over heat the starter), until the oil is pretty much gone. Refill the oil tank and you will be good to go.

Many put shut off valves on the oil lines to prevent this while their skis sit. If you choose to do so, I STRONGLY suggest you hang your lanyard on the valve anytime you close the valve.

In theory it is an easy repair but in reality it requires the engine to be pulled and often a new crank.

 

[Coastiejoe]

I read your post from the Meet and Greet..

Shocking how the oil come out huh...LOL

You are in the right section. We have some members that know everything there is to know about 2-strokes. A couple of members that can help with parts as well.

 

[billyed99]

Great thank you

 

[kicker]

:agree:
I have 2 skis that have leaky seals for 2 years now. Depending on how bad the leak is, it is tolerable. If the motor is healthy and has good compression, just get the oil out of it and run it before tearing down the motor to fix it.

I'm not that familiar with snowmobiles but have heard that the crank seals go usually on the clutch/pto side, then sucks in air and leans out the motor. This is not the same in the seadoo. The seals that leak are the ones on either side of the rotary shaft cavity, so no risk of running lean. As coastie mentioned it seeps past the seal while standing still and starts filling up the cases. With mine they arent too bad, they smoke a little bit on first start up but then cleans out. I wont fix it until rebuild time.

 

[billyed99]

Ya I just did the crank seals on my sled. It leaned it out so bad I had to pour fuel in the cylinder to start it. I didn't realize how common an issue this was. Is it that much work to get the engine out of there to get it fixed the right way?

 

[manolocross]

It might not need fixing yet. Sitting since 08 that is a long time. It might be fine if you get it to start and clear out. The seals might be ok. All seadoo jetskis seep a little oil by crank seals.


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[LouDoo]

Yes, I agree, I always clamp off the main feed line during winter storage. And it won't cause engine damage, it just burns off the excess oil.

Lou

 

[kicker]

Its not that hard to get the motor out, probably 2 hours for your first time.

The jetpump also needs to come off in order to re align the motor with the pump when its installed. You will also need the alignment tool.

I like to remove the motor when I get a new ski, nice to go over everything while it is out. Fuel lines,carbs, hoses, gaskets, oil lines, magneto etc.

But in your case I see how bad the leak is before tearing down the motor, unless you like pulling it apart to have a look at everything anyways, its up to you.

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[Coastiejoe]

Would his skis also have the Grey Tempo lines as well?

I don't recall when they started to use them.

 

[billyed99]

Alright I guess it doesn't hurt to give it a shot before pulling the engine out. Thanks everyone and I'll get back to you with my results

 

[billyed99]

Would his skis also have the Grey Tempo lines as well?

I don't recall when they started to use them.

Ya I think they do. I swapped them all out on my Gts when I got it and these look like the same ones

 

[Coastiejoe]

Ya I think they do. I swapped them all out on my Gts when I got it and these look like the same ones

Ok,, I thought so..

A few things if so. Replace or clean the selector valve, the carbs need to be cleaned as well as the plastic filter inside the cabrs. Bottom line is, they create a lean condition and will wipe out your engine..

Not a fun job to do but a crucial one... If you have them, one you determine where you are with your engine they should be the first thing you do as they affect every aspect of how your engine runs.

 

[billyed99]

Ok,, I thought so..

A few things if so. Replace or clean the selector valve, the carbs need to be cleaned as well as the plastic filter inside the cabrs. Bottom line is, they create a lean condition and will wipe out your engine..

Not a fun job to do but a crucial one... If you have them, one you determine where you are with your engine they should be the first thing you do as they affect every aspect of how your engine runs.

The selector valve on both the machines were frozen shut so I already ordered those. And I cleaned the carbs out on the machines I got running, are you saying I should do it again after I swap the lines?

 

[Coastiejoe]

The selector valve on both the machines were frozen shut so I already ordered those. And I cleaned the carbs out on the machines I got running, are you saying I should do it again after I swap the lines?

Officially,,, yes...
The selectors seem to hold the green goo big time. And,,, as long as you have the lines on and run the engines, you stand the chance to get the goo into the carbs.

The plastic filters inside the carbs "officially" should not be cleaned with carb cleaner as it can melt them. Many do it with no issues, but there is a potential risk of damage. If you do, clean them with soap and water after or rinse them right after with gasoline..

 

[billyed99]

Officially,,, yes...
The selectors seem to hold the green goo big time. And,,, as long as you have the lines on and run the engines, you stand the chance to get the goo into the carbs.

The plastic filters inside the carbs "officially" should not be cleaned with carb cleaner as it can melt them. Many do it with no issues, but there is a potential risk of damage. If you do, clean them with soap and water after or rinse them right after with gasoline..

Oops I blasted them with the carb cleaner. I had them back on the engine with fuel in them within half an hour or so though. I guess I gotta take em back appart anyway. Thanks for the heads up I'll make sure not to do that again

 

[Coastiejoe]

Oops I blasted them with the carb cleaner. I had them back on the engine with fuel in them within half an hour or so though. I guess I gotta take em back appart anyway. Thanks for the heads up I'll make sure not to do that again

This is all a learning curve is all.. Each manufacturer is different.

As a side not, it is ok to jump the battery with a NON-RUNNING vehicle. But NOTHING that is running. The MPEM (Brains) are ultra sensitive. I think it has to do with the extra amperage from the running alternator more so that anything else.

 

[billyed99]

Alright I've been thinking about this all day and I've decided to just go ahead and pull this engine out. I have two other running machines so it's not like it's keeping me off the water. I'll just go through it and make sure all's good. If the cylinders look good is there any reason not to hone them and throw new rings in it? With the low hours it has I can't see it needing to be bored unless they are scored.

So what's my best plan of attack? It looks like the exhaust has to come off for sure. And what's this kicker is telling me about removing the pump and aligning the engine?

 

[LouDoo]

Download the service manual, it's got all the info. you need. You can get one from this site if you join as a premium member, or you can just google for one.

Lou

 

[kicker]

Alright I've been thinking about this all day and I've decided to just go ahead and pull this engine out. I have two other running machines so it's not like it's keeping me off the water. I'll just go through it and make sure all's good. If the cylinders look good is there any reason not to hone them and throw new rings in it? With the low hours it has I can't see it needing to be bored unless they are scored.

So what's my best plan of attack? It looks like the exhaust has to come off for sure. And what's this kicker is telling me about removing the pump and aligning the engine?

Low hours on these things dont mean sh*t unless you know how it was taken care of. The biggest problem with skis compared to other 2 strokes is that the exhaust system has water in it all the time. Even if you braap the throttle after riding it does not get rid of all the water. Your exhaust ports are directly exposed to that water/humidity which travels in the cylinders and down to the crank. This is why it is important to fog the motor after every use if it is going to sit more then a few days. Not to scare you but if the other owners never did this, 90 hrs can look like 400.

Anyways I think your doing the right thing, if you have the time and dont mind spending a few bucks on gaskets it is nice to go through it top to bottom with the engine out. Easy to check the magneto, pick up, RV, cylinder/pistons, new fuel and oil lines etc.

The alignment tool is to be sure the motor is properly aligned with the pump. The hull looses its shape over time and it is near impossible to get the engine installed exactly the way it came out. If there is binding/stress on the driveshaft that will be hard on the crank and crank seals. You have to remove the pump in order to do the alignment which is no big deal really, gives you a chance to check the wear ring, impeller and change the oil in the jet pump.

If your fuel gauge is not working, it will be a good time to do that as well.

 

[billyed99]

Low hours on these things dont mean sh*t unless you know how it was taken care of. The biggest problem with skis compared to other 2 strokes is that the exhaust system has water in it all the time. Even if you braap the throttle after riding it does not get rid of all the water. Your exhaust ports are directly exposed to that water/humidity which travels in the cylinders and down to the crank. This is why it is important to fog the motor after every use if it is going to sit more then a few days. Not to scare you but if the other owners never did this, 90 hrs can look like 400.

Anyways I think your doing the right thing, if you have the time and dont mind spending a few bucks on gaskets it is nice to go through it top to bottom with the engine out. Easy to check the magneto, pick up, RV, cylinder/pistons, new fuel and oil lines etc.

The alignment tool is to be sure the motor is properly aligned with the pump. The hull looses its shape over time and it is near impossible to get the engine installed exactly the way it came out. If there is binding/stress on the driveshaft that will be hard on the crank and crank seals. You have to remove the pump in order to do the alignment which is no big deal really, gives you a chance to check the wear ring, impeller and change the oil in the jet pump.

If your fuel gauge is not working, it will be a good time to do that as well.

Ya I figured it would be best to check everything out make sure I'm not dealing with bad crank bearings that took out the seal. Like you said I have no idea how these were taken care of. If the cylinders are in good shape, is it safe to clear them up with a hone? And if the motor mounts are not moved do I still need to realign everything. Hate to sound cheap but that tool is pretty pricey!

 

[kicker]

Ya I figured it would be best to check everything out make sure I'm not dealing with bad crank bearings that took out the seal. Like you said I have no idea how these were taken care of. If the cylinders are in good shape, is it safe to clear them up with a hone? And if the motor mounts are not moved do I still need to realign everything. Hate to sound cheap but that tool is pretty pricey!

There is no problem giving them a light hone if you think it needs it, I have done it before. I would throw a fresh set of rings in as well.

Trust me, you don't sound cheap when it comes to the alignment tool, its a big chunk of change for the amount you use it. You can rent them from SBT for $75, or buy it and sell it for $100 when your done. you have 3 skis so it just might be good to have for future use.

I have done 4 motors and each time I install it the same as it came out and it never lined up when I put the tool in, I always had to add shims. That being said there are some experienced guys hear that have done it without the tool, maybe they will chime in and give some pointers, if you choose to go that route.

 

[LouDoo]

A tip about buying the engine alignment tool. Buy the tool from Watercraft Super Store, same tool and same company as SBT, WCS offers free shipping. BTW the tool is well worth the money it's a quality tool.

Lou

 

[kicker]

A tip about buying the engine alignment tool. Buy the tool from Watercraft Super Store, same tool and same company as SBT, WCS offers free shipping. BTW the tool is well worth the money it's a quality tool.

Lou

Good point Lou, that long pole makes it an expensive item to ship. Do they rent them out as well?

 

[billyed99]

thanks for the tip. I checked out that website and I think I'll just hold off on ordering a tool until I get the engine appart. Then I'll just order whatever I need through them. I hate renting tools, I'd rather pay an individual to borrow one or just spend the money to own it.