1996 GTI and 1995 GTX

[ochem]

Sorry, first time using Tapatalk. In the first picture that 1 fitting coming off of the oil tank wasn't to anything, is that correct. In the second picture what is that fitting that I'm pointing to. In the third picture that is the inlet for the gas tank, you can see it's broken or cut. Any suggestions on best ways to fix that.

 

[ochem]

And here's some more pics

 

[ochem]

Sorry forgot to ask the question on this pic, the cable coming off the carburetor that goes to the manifold, and have it connected but the connection on the manifold has no spring, no return to it, that does not seem right. Am I missing something, I want to make sure before I get this air intake all back together

 

[ochem]

One more question, this is the inside of the gas tank. I was going to clean it out with some paint thinner or acetone, what do you think that crud is in the bottom?

 

[mikidymac]

You need a new oil pump if it doesn't return. That is what the cable on your carb goes to.
The other cable that isn't connected is either the throttle or choke.
You can't repair the fuel tank but any seadoo dealer can run your VIN and see if you get the free warranty recall.
The stuff in the tank is typical and can be cleaned out.

 

[ochem]

Hah, so I was feeding to cable over the top of the assembly instead of underneath, when does underneath, it springs back just fine.

 

[ochem]

So when I thought the oil pump was bad, I took the inlet line off. I put it back on when I realized the pump was fine, and have thus learned that I need to bleed the lines. Do I need to remove the carb (again?, ugh) to get to the bleed screw?

I was able to fix the fuel tank neck by "plastic welding" it with a soldering iron, I used a zip tie to help fill. Worked well.

Carbs are rebuilt and tuned properly, fuel lines are replaced, fuel valve is replaced, broke the large plastic nut when reinstalling the fuel valve, a replacement is on its way. Poured a teaspoon of premix into the engine installed new spark plugs, and the engine started immediately (then died immediately of course) so that's promising.

I've got the hose adapter to run the water through the engine, so once I figure out what I need to do to get the oil lines bled properly, I"ll start it up for real. The compression is the only question now.

 

[ochem]

Also, I removed the idle adjustment screw, even though I don't think I needed to. Is there a stock setting on the screw depth? Or do I need to get a tachometer and set it that way?

 

[ochem]

I can't find what this hoes that I'm pointing at goes to in my manual or online. Can anybody help me with this?

 

[ochem]

Also, do I need to Prime the fuel lines in some way, since i replaced them and they're all empty, before I try and start it.

 

[ochem]

So, I took the head off the engine. Here's some before and after pics. Everything looks good to me, and untrained eye though. I can still see some cross hatching on the Piston cylinders, I think that's good. Should I replace gaskets while it's open.

 

[Mickirig1]

I replace stuff so I know it is good. Cheap insurance.

 

[bcorn]

Premix your fuel and oil. That will help until the oil lines bleed themselves.

 

[soccerdad]

Premix your fuel and oil. That will help until the oil lines bleed themselves.

To clarify, I think you mean just for a short time, like from a separate container? Or are you suggesting converting to premix? The oil pumps work great on these. For priming the fuel lines I use a hand vacuum like you use to do brakes on a car. But you can just crank it in 5 second bursts and if the system is vacuum tight, it will start fairly quickly. Just dont crank and crank and burn out the starter.

 

[bcorn]

To clarify, I think you mean just for a short time, like from a separate container? Or are you suggesting converting to premix? The oil pumps work great on these. For priming the fuel lines I use a hand vacuum like you use to do brakes on a car. But you can just crank it in 5 second bursts and if the system is vacuum tight, it will start fairly quickly. Just dont crank and crank and burn out the starter.

Yes only for a short time just in case there are bubbles still in the line.

 

[ochem]

I ordered a gasket kit, plus loctite for reassembly of the head. Might as well while it's open.

 

[ochem]

Ok, engine is back together. Starts right up with pre mix directly in the spark plug holes. But I cannot get the fuel lines to prime. When I try to start it, and hit the throttle, it sounds like it trying to suck bubble, (imagine the sound a straw makes trying to get the last of a milkshake) but when I pull the fuel line off, I smell no gas in the line? Of course I'm questioning my accuracy in replacing the fuel lines, but I'm almost positive I put them back in correctly. What else should I consider? Fuel baffle? should I pull the tank and recheck my fuel line placement? Ideas?

 

[mikidymac]

Sure sounds like you have a line not connected correctly.
The fuel baffle is labeled... RET=Return, RES=Reserve, ON=On, VNT=Vent.

 

[eavega]

Check and see if you have fuel in your fuel filter (the white plastic cup should be somewhere under the steering column). also check your fuel selector make sure its not plugged up. If both of those are good, then you have an air leak somewhere in your fuel lines. the fuel system is pressurized, and without that pressure, it won't keep prime. Try to isolate the bubbling sound, as that will be the source of your leak. You can also temporarily replace fuel lines with clear tubing. IF you see air bubbles, you have a leak...

Also, check with your local seadoo shop as to the fuel tank. I resuscitated a 95 SPX last year that was part of the recall, and the shop did eventually get me a fuel tank to replace with at no cost to me. Definitely that crack in the filler neck is the reason for the recall. Don't risk that repair you made failing, as it will allow fuel fumes to accumulate under the hood/seat. The results can be explosive...

-E

 

[ochem]

I checked on the fuel tank, record show that ski already had its fuel tank replaced under the recall. I tried to melt it back together with a soldering iron but I don't know how air tight it is it definitely gave it more structural integrity.

 

[Mickirig1]

Does it hiss when you take gas cap off? Pull choke all the way out when you wind starter. It helps to pull fuel to carb. Putting gas to air boxes will help. Engine runs for 30 seconds it pulls fuel in. Use pop off tester to check for air leaks. Procedure is in repair manual. If you don't have one you can get it on the Internet for free.

 

[Mickirig1]

Does it hiss when you take gas cap off? Pull choke all the way out when you wind starter. It helps to pull fuel to carb. Putting gas to air boxes will help. Engine runs for 30 seconds it pulls fuel in. Use pop off tester to check for air leaks. Procedure is in repair manual. If you don't have one you can get it on the Internet for free.

Gaskets on fuel filter / water separator under front hatch goes bad all the time.

 

[Luv2Camp]

I can't find what this hoes that I'm pointing at goes to in my manual or online. Can anybody help me with this?

Think that is a line for the battery when they did not use agm sealed batteries and needed to be vented

 

[Mickirig1]

Trace it forward it ends in a hull vent. Looks like like clear tubing. Goes back as far as the battery.

 

[ochem]

Could add any pressure to the fuel system, Definitely didn't fully close the crack in the neck. I got a plastic fuel tank epoxy repair kit, hopefully it will hold since it shouldn't actually come into contact with fuel too much. If u can get the ski running good, I'll look into getting a new tank There was fuel in the cup.